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I’ve posted this issue before but I felt I had to start a new thread since the one I posted was months ago. I believe it was titled “95 civic idle issue” Anyway, My civic turns off when I come to a stop, it used to do it intermittently but now it does it just about every stop sign/ stop light. The only way I can keep it running is opening the throttle a little bit or put it in neutral (sometimes works) or both at the same time. When the car dies and I try to start it back I have to open the throttle a little bit to start the car. The check engine light turns on and off intermittently. DTC 41 DTC 1, I checked the fuel pressure since it asked if “engine running poorly see fuel delivery system” Fuel pressure was about 40 psi but I wasn’t able to test further than that.
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could be a few things really, id check plugs. wires, distributer cap, button, or possibly a throttle positon switch. not likely but it could be a clogged cat
I forgot to mention the rattling sound coming from the right rear. I believe my cat is already done for but I haven’t looked under the car. Thanks for reminding me.
I would be suspicious of a vacuum leak tricking the o2 sensor into thinking the car is running lean. Here’s a video on searching for said leaks:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CPqbaSgcok
The code 41 per this site’s search function is for the heater portion of yer o2 sensor, and shouldn’t cause the issue you are experiencing. I’m still waiting on it to tell me what code 1 is…
What you could do is take the air intake tube off, put some thing to cover up the throttle totally and try to start the car. If it starts then you have an air leak. If it doesn’t then most likely you don’t have a leak. Or you could use the carb prayer.
If the car starts with a piece of cardboard covering the throttle body, the intake leak would have to be massive. The car probably wouldn’t even run…
The code 41 is for the O2 sensor, the code 1 could be the ECU fuse, be sure to check it to be sure it’s good, if it is ignore this code. To me it sounds like it could be an idle air control valve problem, try tapping on it with a screwdriver handle to see if the idle changes at all, if it does I would replace the IAC, drive it for a while so it can reset, and then recheck for the symptom. If you adjusted the idle screw this was a bad move as this is set at the factory and should not be tampered with, if you did however you might want to try and turn it back to where it was before you adjusted it to see if your condition changes or goes away.
Thanks for every ones insight. I checked the vacuum using a vacuum gauge and the needle was fluctuating rapidly from 18 to 20. The timing is correct. Would that be caused by poor valve seating?, vacuum leak? Also idle gets worse when I press on the brakes, I’m unsure how to check the brake booster.
Sounds like a vacuum leak. check all hoses and anywhere a gasket might leak. if you step on the brake pedal and hear an air hissing sound this is probably the brake booster leaking. check for fluid in the booster as well as under the dash where the pedal push rod comes through
You could also use hose clamp pliers and clamp off the vacuum hose going to the brake booster and see if the idle changes that way along with having an assistant depress the brake pedal.
Usually a constant fluctuating vacuum needle is a sign of a misfire or timing issue.
Quoted From chemo:
Thanks for every ones insight. I checked the vacuum using a vacuum gauge and the needle was fluctuating rapidly from 18 to 20. The timing is correct. Would that be caused by poor valve seating?, vacuum leak? Also idle gets worse when I press on the brakes, I’m unsure how to check the brake booster.
That does sound like the valves OR some other part of the engine may not be sealing as it should which could be the root cause of your problem, perhaps do a leak down check and check the valve clearance.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WgrfT0LF … ure=relmfu
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