- This topic has 16 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 11 years, 4 months ago by
.
- Topic
Hi guys,
I’m trying to fix my brother’s Integra. It was sitting there for a month without starting it.
Later I tried to start it the battery died. It was having trouble holding a charge, so I replaced
a new one. Now it cranks, but won’t start. I checked the main relay, and fuel pressure, they seen
fine. Then I checked the spark, there’s no spark. Therefore, I think it might be ignition coil failure.
But now I’m having some trouble taking out the distributor rotor screw.I was using this screw driver, but I think the it didn’t catch the screw that will and I was doing it
in an angle. I stripped the screw a little bit.Now I’m using another screw driver seen to catch the screw better, but the screw is really hard to turn.
And I’m afraid I’ll stripped the screw even more.
My question is there any way to prevent me to stripped the screw even more?
If I stripped the screw completely is there a way to save it?
- Replies
You can use a 5/16 or 8 mm socket to remove the screws. Don’t be surprised if one or 2 screws break.
Thanks for your reply. Sorry I didn’t resize my pics before upload.
The screw is a philip only screw. I saw some people saying using a
vise grip to grip the screw, but the plastic cover is around it.Put the Phillips head into the screw and with a small
hammer whack the handle of the screw driver a few times.
Then while doing this twist slightly out. see if it comes free.That’s a common issue. Normally what I do is break the top of the rotor off with a hammer and chisel and then use a pair of vice grips to turn the screw. Trust me, this saves a lot of headache. BTW that’s a special screw so you’re going to have to reuse it. Don’t mess it up too much. New ones are hard to find.
Don’t assume you have a bad coil. A test light and a simple test will tell you if you have a coil or an igniter issue.
looks like a JIS screw
http://www.rjrcooltools.com/jis.cfm
I used to lots of work on import motorcycles and a JIS screw will drive you crazy. Believe it or not the Japaneses manufactures don’t use a standard Phillips screw they have their own which they call JIS.
A little known, but ‘troublesome’ standard, the Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS for short) is a Pacific Rim phenomenon. You can never tell where you will find it now – it’s everywhere. But start with the Pacific Rim: anything of Asian origin is almost certainly going to include it. The symptom of the problem is when your standard Phillips screwdriver ‘hangs up,’ and doesn’t feel quite right. The Phillips driver won’t go into the JIS Screw all the way because the corner radius of the screw is smaller than that of the Phillips scredriver! This is the primary cause of what we know as ‘cam-out.’
Oddly enough, the Phillips standard was created to allow this condition so that you knew you had reaced maximum torque!Thanks for the reply. I tried to use the impact driver, but the bit holder is too wide to fit in. Since there’s a rotor head and the plastic cover in the way.
Thanks Eric, but break the top of the rotor do you mean the plastic that surround the screw? And I look up the parts diagram it showed up as 30135-P08-006 screw-washer (5×12) wondering if the dealer will carry them? Thanks again.
Break the plastic rotor apart. Once that is broken out of the way, the plastic cover will come off, then either use your impact driver, or needle nose vice grips like Eric said.
Personally, seeing how buggered up that screw is, at this point, I would suck it up, and go buy a new one from a Honda dealer. Even if that little sucker costs you $15, it is still better than going through this again.
Yes, break the head of the rotor off to access the screw with a pair of vice grips. As for the screw, they MIGHT stock them but I wouldn’t hold them to it. Also, you should do the test I posted to find out why you’re not getting spark.
Keep us posted.
Don’t know the specifics for your brothers Integra, but for my Accord (94) the rotor screw is part number 30135-P08-006 and sells for $.74 at Majestic Honda. List is $1.05 which will likely be very close to what you will pay at a dealership parts counter.
The dust shield is part number 30107-P08-006 cover, leak is how it is listed. Majestic price $1.38, list $1.97.
Total cost of replacing the parts properly, under $5.00, not bad!
Thanks for everyone’s help. After break the rotor plastic and help of vise grip the screw came off easily. Luckily I found the parts from last owner which include all the parts that I broke.
And I was told by my mechanic saying that I can check if the ignition coil is good by measuring the resistance between the spring and the positive and negative. It was off the 12-19 kilo ohms range.
I replaced the ignition coil and the baby is back to life.Does anyone know the testing resistance method is a good way tell if the ignition coil is good?
That’s a pretty lousy method.
About 20% of the time the coil secondary has opened up and you’ll measure infinite ohms and THEN the meter reading is 100% definitive and helpful.
But the other 80% of the time either moisture has gotten into the coil, and that won’t change the meter reading, or a single turn-to-turn short has happened in either the primary or secondary, and that’s too miniscule a change to see on any meter. The primary has dozens of turns, so a turn-to-turn short will only change the resistance by a percent or two, to small to make a noticeable difference. The secondary has thousands of turns and a short there makes even less difference.
The only halfway correct way is to hook up a 1/4 inch spark gap to the secondary, apply 12 volts to the primary, and look for a healthy snap and a spark when you break the applied 12 volts off.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.