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So I have this 95 accord, 75k miles F22B1 automatic, that sat for about a year due to needing a fuel pump. I got the car, replaced the fuel pump – and it would start, but it idles at an extremely low rpm (MAYBE 250) does not rev, no throttle input changes the rpms. Sprayed a little starting fluid to it, and it died immediately instead of what I thought was going to happen (rev up).
I’ve replaced Plugs, wires, injectors, fuel pump. Then out of no where yesterday, it started and ran great – revved up, idled normal, etc. I shut it off, started it again, same thing, idles about 250rpm (it doesn’t even really register on the rpm gauge it’s so low). I’ve checked fuel at the rail and it has pressure. I tried to pull a code, but the CEL just goes out after a few seconds or so and doesn’t flash, but the SRS flashes.
Anyone have any ideas?
Also, on the back side of the timing cover there is a plug with nothing plugged into it, with wires that run into the block just above the oil pan and just behind the timing cover. Anyone know what this is for? Just found it while looking to make sure mice didn’t chew a wire in half. Here’s a picture for reference: [IMG]http://i66.tinypic.com/2rr6qgp.jpg[/IMG]
After a bit of letting this thing barely run until it came up to temp (cooling fan came on) it didn’t change any behavior. I’ve checked coolant, loosened a fuel line (and got sprayed), checked my vacuum and every wiring plug/harness I can find.
It had also developed a leak behind the timing cover which i havent’ fixed yet, which I suspect it one of the balance shaft seals came out, but i wanted it to run OK before i invested the time in all of that.
I unplugged the MAP sensor to make sure the CEL was working and pulling proper codes and that was OK. Checked as many grounds as I could find…
I’m just at a loss. Someone mentioned that the plug on the back of the engine in the picture meant the motor was swapped out of a 96, but I don’t see any evidence on this on the bolts (motor mounts etc)., but that really doesn’t explain why it ran barely, even pulling a plug just made it run even more barely (is that a word?), but I could hear it snapping as soon as it disconnected so the spark was arcing, and then one time i start it, bam, perfect, which made the situation worse for me. This thing is driving me nuts.
Any help or suggestions is greatly appreciated and I’ll answer or try anything that I haven’t already tried.
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[quote=”shaun” post=177090]A bright blue spark indicates that your probably OK there. And compression is good. But you really need to check that fuel pressure. Even at 5 psi it would spray out when loosening a fitting. Too low or even too high of pressure can cause problems.[/quote] I guess I’ll do this saturday to put this question in my head to rest. At least I get my $130 back after i’m done! :side:
Wouldn’t be the first time I got a bad pump.
I guess it could be the filter if it’s low but holy jebus the filter on this car looks like i need to tear half the engine apart to get to.
I would suggest cleaning the egr passages if you’re going to change fuel filters. They are a metal container sitting on the intake runners and under the fuel rail. As for changing the filter you need some crows feet wrenches and several extensions. I suggest one of the crows feet to be like a line wrench type to avoid slipping off.
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[quote=”Angrysmileyface” post=177111]I would suggest cleaning the egr passages if you’re going to change fuel filters. They are a metal container sitting on the intake runners and under the fuel rail. As for changing the filter you need some crows feet wrenches and several extensions. I suggest one of the crows feet to be like a line wrench type to avoid slipping off.
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk[/quote] Thanks for the tip. I have some of those, but it’s still going to be the biggest PITA fuel filter I’ve ever checked!
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