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So I have this 95 accord, 75k miles F22B1 automatic, that sat for about a year due to needing a fuel pump. I got the car, replaced the fuel pump – and it would start, but it idles at an extremely low rpm (MAYBE 250) does not rev, no throttle input changes the rpms. Sprayed a little starting fluid to it, and it died immediately instead of what I thought was going to happen (rev up).
I’ve replaced Plugs, wires, injectors, fuel pump. Then out of no where yesterday, it started and ran great – revved up, idled normal, etc. I shut it off, started it again, same thing, idles about 250rpm (it doesn’t even really register on the rpm gauge it’s so low). I’ve checked fuel at the rail and it has pressure. I tried to pull a code, but the CEL just goes out after a few seconds or so and doesn’t flash, but the SRS flashes.
Anyone have any ideas?
Also, on the back side of the timing cover there is a plug with nothing plugged into it, with wires that run into the block just above the oil pan and just behind the timing cover. Anyone know what this is for? Just found it while looking to make sure mice didn’t chew a wire in half. Here’s a picture for reference: [IMG]http://i66.tinypic.com/2rr6qgp.jpg[/IMG]
After a bit of letting this thing barely run until it came up to temp (cooling fan came on) it didn’t change any behavior. I’ve checked coolant, loosened a fuel line (and got sprayed), checked my vacuum and every wiring plug/harness I can find.
It had also developed a leak behind the timing cover which i havent’ fixed yet, which I suspect it one of the balance shaft seals came out, but i wanted it to run OK before i invested the time in all of that.
I unplugged the MAP sensor to make sure the CEL was working and pulling proper codes and that was OK. Checked as many grounds as I could find…
I’m just at a loss. Someone mentioned that the plug on the back of the engine in the picture meant the motor was swapped out of a 96, but I don’t see any evidence on this on the bolts (motor mounts etc)., but that really doesn’t explain why it ran barely, even pulling a plug just made it run even more barely (is that a word?), but I could hear it snapping as soon as it disconnected so the spark was arcing, and then one time i start it, bam, perfect, which made the situation worse for me. This thing is driving me nuts.
Any help or suggestions is greatly appreciated and I’ll answer or try anything that I haven’t already tried.
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It sounds like your iac is not working. This is what controls the idle. see if this link helps.
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-idle-problems
I did try whacking that with a screw driver but no change. I half expected an unstable idle with a bad iac (though I did bring it up to operating temp with no idle change) but the idle stays the same. I’ll pull this thing off tonight and see if it’s at least moving and attempt to clean.
I did this based on a video Eric posted regarding idle issues. I’ve been working on this thing for a while but just recently was able to post to the forums.
One question I have based on past vehicles that had iac go bad, shouldn’t the idle change if I step on the gas? Because no amount of throttle input makes this thing run above 250. Actually the only time thenidle did anything at all was when I unplugged the MAP to make sure my CEL was working (it changed up and down very slightly)
Also is that extra plug indicative that the block was swapped on this thing as someone else told me? (Which blows my mind with only 74k on the tach but I did replace the motor on an olds once with 33k because they got fuel in the oils and didn’t change it so stranger things have happened)
I do have the serial that is below the f22b1 of 3415568 if that will help answer that enigma for me.
[quote=”Ecidemon” post=177017]One question I have based on past vehicles that had iac go bad, shouldn’t the idle change if I step on the gas? Because no amount of throttle input makes this thing run above 250. Actually the only time thenidle did anything at all was when I unplugged the MAP to make sure my CEL was working (it changed up and down very slightly)
Also is that extra plug indicative that the block was swapped on this thing as someone else told me? (Which blows my mind with only 74k on the tach but I did replace the motor on an olds once with 33k because they got fuel in the oils and didn’t change it so stranger things have happened)
I do have the serial that is below the f22b1 of 3415568 if that will help answer that enigma for me.[/quote]
Is the throttle plate actually opening? You should get a throttle response. Unless someone messed with the idle screw?
Yes, and you can also hear it audibly but one of the things I did was open the throttle plate full throttle and gave it a small shot Of starting fluid, which killed the engine. Other than changing the intake noise, opening the throttle plate does very little. I say very little as you might get an extra 100 rpm out of it after some time. Then the one time I started it everything worked perfect, just trying to find that reason.
Quick question – are there any sensors behind the timing belt cover that would cause it not to run correctly? There is an oil leak there is why I asked. My guess is one of the balance shaft seals came out. I’ve watched some videos of timing belt replacement and it’s hard to tell, and the shop manual I have is from 84-95 preludes and accords so it’s not been that helpful for this type of information since it’s trying to cover 11 years of 2 different cars.
[quote=”Ecidemon” post=177042]Quick question – are there any sensors behind the timing belt cover that would cause it not to run correctly? There is an oil leak there is why I asked. My guess is one of the balance shaft seals came out. I’ve watched some videos of timing belt replacement and it’s hard to tell, and the shop manual I have is from 84-95 preludes and accords so it’s not been that helpful for this type of information since it’s trying to cover 11 years of 2 different cars.[/quote]
you could have a crank sensor by the balancer.
well there is those wires running back there that I’ve not yet figured out what the plug is for, I’m told it’s where the sensors were on the 96, which is why they think the block had been swapped. There aren’t any plugs to plug into this plug free, however, which is why I included the picture of it in the first post to see if someone could tell me what it was.
I don’t see any pictures. I would think the cars computer would see a fault if sensors were not plugged in?
I would think, but I was told by someone else it was a 96 block and that’s why it was there, and that the 94-95 sensors were somewhere else.
Not sure why the picture didn’t show up, here’s the direct link
http://i66.tinypic.com/2rr6qgp.jpgIf this thing didn’t have so few miles I would have already sold it as a parts car. I started it again last night because I was going to beat on the IAC and it ran fine right off the bat. shut it off, started again, same crap. beating on the IAC didn’t do anything. Still no CEL’s triggered, except for things I’ve unplugged to check for changes in behavior.
I’ve still got a couple things to pull off and check but I’m about out of things to pull off and check that *i* know of. The fact that it runs perfect sometimes really makes me want to throw wrenches, though.
What is the actual fuel pressure. Always good to cover the basics. Also check how the spark is and maybe the compression. No codes, start with the basics
[quote=”Ecidemon” post=177068]If this thing didn’t have so few miles I would have already sold it as a parts car. I started it again last night because I was going to beat on the IAC and it ran fine right off the bat. shut it off, started again, same crap. beating on the IAC didn’t do anything. Still no CEL’s triggered, except for things I’ve unplugged to check for changes in behavior.
I’ve still got a couple things to pull off and check but I’m about out of things to pull off and check that *i* know of. The fact that it runs perfect sometimes really makes me want to throw wrenches, though.[/quote]
I do see the plug not sure what its for?
[quote=”shaun” post=177084]What is the actual fuel pressure. Always good to cover the basics. Also check how the spark is and maybe the compression. No codes, start with the basics[/quote] i haven’t checked the actual fuel pressure yet because I don’t have a gauge and didn’t have the $130 oreilly’s wanted for me to barrow one (but I did loosen the bolt on the filter and it sprayed everywhere), but I did to a compression and leakdown test and everything is fine there. I don’t know exactly how to test spark but pulling the boot from the plug creates a pretty good blue arc. It has new plugs also.
Keep in mind the car ran fine prior to being parked for a year, and it runs great 1 out of 10 starts. This weekend I’m tripple checking all of the grounds, voltage testing the map, pulling the IAC to check function (though no throttle input changes anything) and pulling the EGR. After this, it may just go to the junk yard.
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