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Hi, first time poster here, and getting my hands dirty again after being away from the innards of my cars for, well, awhile.
So, I’m just starting the work of replacing the front rotors and CV axles on my 95 Accord EX-L 4-door 2.7L V6. In the video, the hub nut, ziiiinnng, comes off without a thought. Mine is thinking a lot. I’ve got the 36mm socket on a 1/2 wrench with a short extender to get away from the car a bit. I’ve sprayed the thing with PB Blaster, and let is sit for 15 minutes or so, and then tried loosening it with a 5 foot extension on the wrench. Now, I admit that I didn’t “pull for all its worth” yet, but it’s not budging. I’m having a hard time getting the socket to stay seated without starting to shear out, and I don’t want to wreck the nut, yet. I read a tip from someone who use a floor jack to prop up the socket extension, and then used their jack to push up on the wrench, using the weight of the car to get the thing loose. I guess that this worked for him fine. I’ve got a pancake compressor that I use for some carpentry projects, and I’m wondering if it’d just be easier to buy myself an air wrench, but I haven’t used those and not sure what I’d need to get in order to have something strong enough to get this nut loose. Looking for some overall guidance, I guess.
One thing I’m concerned about is wrecking the socket wrench ratcheting mechanism, so I was thinking about getting a “slide wrench” with a 1/2 inch socket head on it.
Thanks and have a good day.
Ron
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se..I beleive in making everything easy as possible.. my suggestion is to use a jack stand but don’t put the weight on it..mainly there just to keep it stable and flush onto the nut itself and keeps it from going sideways an such..kinda like a point of leverage..then just simply slip a pipe over the handle of your wrench for a little extra leverage..normaly seems to work for me..you might try getting some silicone based lubricant aswell and coat it pretty good..possibly some carb. cleaner if the nut is rusted in. Will normally clear out the debris from the threads..just don’t get any on your hands..will hurt a little..lol
Anyway..just a few suggestions for yah to try out 😛
Hope it helped a little,
JayI would have someone sit inside and step on the brake. Also do not jack up the car. leave it on the ground with the tire on. Both of these should make the car more stable and allow you to exert the maxinum force to turning the nut. After you break the nut loose (approx 1 turn or so) you can jack the car back up and put it on safety stands and continue. Hope this helps. Post back and let everyone know how it turns out. –Gen3
Thanks, guys. Really appreciate the suggestions. I’ll be working on it again for awhile tomorrow and I’ll let you know how it goes.
Ron
If you haven’t seen it already this is the video I did on axle replacement that covers how to remove a pesky nut.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jydxpsh13WQ
If none of that works you might try the idea that you suggested but jacking up the car by the wrench to get it to come loose, I recommend locking the brake pedal down with a prybar or equivilant to keep the wheel from rotating while you raise it up.
Rongee!
I had a similar experience to yours. I borrowed a 36mm socket from Autozone and used my 1/2 inch drive breaker bar (1.5 ft handle). I was in the junk yard where the cars are already off the ground with the wheels off. I could not figure out a way to keep the rotor from turning while trying to turn the wheel nut. Well, Pall Bunyan and his friend came by with vise grip pliers and a four foot long pipe. They locked the pliers onto the rotor, which turned and hit the steering knuckle locking the rotor. They made one quarter turn with that pipe on the wrench handle and the nut was loose. I bowed before their greatness.
Quoted From rongee:
Thanks, guys. Really appreciate the suggestions. I’ll be working on it again for awhile tomorrow and I’ll let you know how it goes.
Ron
Definantley start with the car on the ground. use a good breaker bar instead of a ratchet handle. a jack handle off of a full size floor jack works great for added leverage on the breaker bar. if you find the socket wants to slip off of the axle nut you can add a short extension to the socket and then support under the extension with a short jack stand or block of wood to keep everthing in line then crank down on the handle and should break loose.
A trick I was taught in school and have used a couple times is to turn the nut IN a hair before trying to back it out. Sometimes will break the corrosion. Otherwise, I would suggest a ton of PB Blaster, which is my favorite penetrating oil. I wish they paid me everytime I used it…
Just an update. I finally went out and bought myself an air wrench, since I already had a small compressor from some woodworking and carpentry I do once in awhile. Popped those hub nuts right off. Now, I’m reviewing Eric’s videos to figure out how to do the rest of the project, ie, change out the rotors, bearings, and drive axles.
thanks again for all of the advice.
Ron
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