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95 2wd s10 vibration at certain speeds

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  • #855933
    comicscomics
    Participant

      Hello all, Ive been chasing this problem for awhile and i cant seem to be able to track it down so heres everything that is needed to know:

      1995 Chevy s10 2wd 5 speed 2.2L 4 banger reg cab reg bed stock height 220K miles on it. has a single piece driveshaft with a u joint at trans and at pumpkin

      Issue is at 45mph in 5th gear i get a vibration that i can hear/feel in the seat / floor / and shifter knob at cruising speed.

      I can push in the clutch vibration goes away.

      push in clutch, DONT let the rpm fall let clutch back out the vibration stays the same.

      push in clutch and DO let the rpm fall to idle, rev back up let clutch out and vibration is either gone or changes in severity.

      also sometimes does it while lightly accelerating at around 2K rpm in 2nd, and while engine braking in 3rd going 35mph SOMETIMES.

      at 55mph+ its smooth

      never feel it in the steering wheel

      Things that have been done that didn’t change anything:

      rims and tires were removed, sandblasted, painted, remounted and balanced – ran on factory rims and tires off my 02 blazer (same lug pattern) rode smoother due to more of a car tire tread but vibration was still there and came and went as it does.

      checked and changed the trans fluid – no funny particles stuck to magnet or in bottom of drain pan.

      rearend fluid has been checked and changed when axle seals leaked (before vibration)

      new front wheel bearings

      2 new rear u joints (one MOOG – not sure if i got it installed right – whole nother can of worms and me vowing never to use MOOG u joints again – replaced with different brand this time and pumped full of grease till the mystic jt6 synthetic blue came out all 4 caps – i prepumped all the factory anti rust grease out of the spider before installation).

      clutch, throw out bearing, piolit bearing, flywheel pressure plate, slave cyl were all repalced.

      ^^^ all of this has been replaced since 208K miles due to it wearing out or trying to track down the vibration.

      now heres some other things to know:

      my own exhaust creation, factory header/downpipe to 2 1/4″ straight pipe from under the passengers feet area to just behind the bed to a cheapo dynomax turbo muffler out the stock exhaust up over the axle out at the stock location. it does cause soem drone and vibrations but its been that setup for years – ive checked it and its all how i had it last supported – not rubbing anything.

      does have a fiberglass topper

      rear springs are a bit sprung (been loaded up a bunch in its life) but truck still sits level – when i go over dips or bumps when its vibrating it doesnt seem to affect the vibration so i think pinion angle is still OK.

      ive added the clamp on helper springs (single bar and U bolt setup) that kinda help but not really – i may take them off and see what happens

      does have air shocks that i keep some air in to give it a smooth ride and when it does have a load to help it out some.

      overload leafs have been removed due to one cracking in half at the bolt – new grade 8 bolts installed on both sides (hasnt been loaded heavy since and dont plan to)

      front U joint is factory but is loose as a goose when drive-shaft has been out – i dont feel any binding at all (IF A U JOINT IS TOO LOOSE CAN IT CAUSE A VIBRATION?) i dont detect any play in it in left right up down or as if i were to twist it. but like i said it does have 220K miles on it…

      drive shaft doesn’t appear to be bent or any dings in it, all weights appear to be there.

      with hood open and throttle snapped the engine appears to be pretty solid (aka motor mounts OK)

      in the morning (like morning commute) it doesnt seem to vibrate but sometimes will with the afternoon commute – consists of residential 25mph road, then a 40mph road then on ramp to 65mph interstate for 2 miles then off on 30mph side streets

      Im usually pretty good with cars but this one has me stumped…

    Viewing 7 replies - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)
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    • #855939
      A toyotakarlIts me
      Moderator

        While I don’t know exactly your problem (you described it very well BTW)… Here is my 2 cents..

        Vibrations are caused by something that is rotating…

        When you put your clutch in, and it goes away, but can come back.. leads me to something in the drivetrain…

        No shaking in the steering wheel means the rotational issue is not in the front of the vehicle…

        A shake in the seat of the pants is highly likely to be something not working properly in the rear of the vehicle (I.E. shaking can many times be unbalanced rear tires, but you have taken care of that issue.)

        From what you wrote…

        front U joint is factory but is loose as a goose when drive-shaft has been out – i dont feel any binding at all (IF A U JOINT IS TOO LOOSE CAN IT CAUSE A VIBRATION?) i dont detect any play in it in left right up down or as if i were to twist it. but like i said it does have 220K miles on it…

        This I think hones in on it and where I would look… For example, a FWD vehicle with a bad inner CV joint you can speed up and turn slightly and the vibration goes away… I think you are experiencing something like that when you are putting in the clutch and letting the RPMS fall and then raising them matches the rotational speed (similar to a FWD)….

        JMHO

        Good luck

        -Karl

        #855943
        GregGreg
        Participant

          Have you checked the rear diff for excessive play at the pinion? Are the splines in the slip yoke in good shape?

          #855945
          comicscomics
          Participant

            alright i appreciate your response, ill see what i can do about replacing it!

            yea once i posted i saw i wrote a book and a half of info but instead of me and the internet playing Q&A for the next week i figured id lay all my known cards out on the table first.

            yea its deffinately deals with a certian speed, ive never owned a FWD car so dont know thier weird quirks, deffinately seems to be something from clutch back. A few months ago it would only do it in 5th gear from 45-60 mph and come and go. Talked to the trans shop that did the clutch and he said that 5th gear is typically off on its own shaft and i told him most of its miles are highway and spends alot of time in 5th he said if the fluid were ran low the gear and or shaft could be worn out and “wobble” until you change the load on it. i thought it was possible but when i checked the level i stuck my pinky in the fill hole and got fluid – like i said no funny metals or colors in it when i changed it anyways (was due – 80K since last change) so i wrote that off as a possibility.

            did find the rear U joint (3rd in its life) when removed had some rotational play in one of the cups – sure enough one was greasy one was brown sticky paste (rusty grease) so i thought HEY thats gotta be it.

            replaced with a MOOG grease-able style with the funky low head grease zerk in one of the caps. Thought moog – twice as expensive as store brand should last rest of the life of the truck easy 20 min job. heck no firstly moog didnt tap the hole in the end cap straight, 2ndly wasnt tapped good enough and stripped the grease zerk out, when i ran a tap thru it i got most of the tap in then it broke the tap off in it. Luckily it broke in a way i could use a punch and get the broken tap out and the grease zerk in. Then when it came time to grease it i had the proper grease adapter and it got grease to the cap i was greasing and the caps left and right but not the one directly across from it no matter what i did. so was OK for a day then the vibration came back. tossed that u joint got the store brand with the grease fitting in the yoke. got it all greased and put on tonight but vibration is still there. so here i am at the internets mercy!

            #855949
            comicscomics
            Participant

              when you say play at the pinion do you mean between pinion gear and ring gear? its much tighter (but smooth) than my 02 blazers that has slop…

              i cant move the pinion yoke around at all.(up down left right in out)

              when you say splines you mean the splines of the axle shaft sliding into the carrier? now that you mention it the passenger side looked great, drivers side wasnt the best but slipped in easily and came out easy when i did the axle seals. has an open differential.

              wait you mean slip yoke as in the part the slips inside the trans correct? yea it slides like butter every time i remove the driveshaft in farther to get the rear U joint out of the yoke and then all the way off to remove the driveshaft (then some trans fluid pours out that i put fresh in the trans when i reinstall the driveshaft)

              #855976
              MikeMike
              Participant

                Just wondering if your driveshaft U-joints are phased correctly.

                #855978
                comicscomics
                Participant

                  I usually put a chalk line or spraypaint a line on the driveshaft to trans so it goes back in the same place. a few times i reused old lines so it could have been off. I checked at lunch today and it is indexed correctly…

                  #856198
                  comicscomics
                  Participant

                    UPDATE: Alright so i removed the clamp on helper springs as it looked liek they were causing a weird pinion angle to occur, vibration isnt nearly as bad but deffinately still there.

                    I remember when the truck was on the lift and my friend mentioned the trans mount looked like it wasnt tightened all the way, we tried tightening it and it didnt budge. I decided to go under the truck and push pull on the driveshaft. I can feel something pop as i push up and down and can hear the driveshaft ring as if it were tapped with a screwdriver. At first i couldnt tell if it was the whole trans and everything shifting or just driveshaft.

                    Got the trans mount nut off, lubed with liquid wrench and ran it back on tight as i could get it. Didnt help anything.

                    Looked harder at the situation and there is play definitely between the drive shaft yoke and tail shaft of the trans and whats where the popping is coming from.

                    How can you tell if its worn out splines or tailshaft bearing is shot? This is on a Borg Warner T-5 trans.

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