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Hi,
I acquired a toyota pickup 22RE 4wD 5SPD. Ran fine a few years and i painted the truck, while reuniting the bed with the cab it would not start. I determined it was a fuel issue and drained tank, changed the filter and fuel pump and now have 46 lbs. pressure. The truck starts up but dies immediately when you give it gas. So I changed the fuel pressure regulator as well as the injectors. Think at this point the fuel side of it is up to snuff. Problem remained.
I used a smoke machine and loacated a leak from bad gasket on throttle body and repaired that with no other visible leaks and did change the intake gaskets and cleaned TB as well.
I changed the temp sensor, and the cold start injector system is working as it should. Changed the TPS and set to correct voltage. Also replaced the AFM and verified coil and ignitor with known parts. Same with ECU no change. Truck thows an O2 sensor code and replaced that but it comes back after clearing it. New gaskets on Exhaust manifold and EGR components.
Tune up parts changed Cap, rotor, plugs and wires. New distributor because I did not have enough adjustment to get the timing light on correct spot. New distributor did get me to the right setting but all the way to one side of slot in the adjuster. Timing was done with port jumpered and idle dropped as it was supposed to. I double checked the plug wires going to the right plug. If you slowly roll the throttle it will rev freely. Compression was consistent accros all cylinders. No contamination of oil or water and I changed water pump too.
Everything I did helped the truck run marginally better or no change. Problem is still there. I took it to couple shops where I know the mechanics and they could not identify the problem.
Good thing I got it basically for free because I have spent around 5 hundred in parts. No clanking from timing chain and I did verify top dead center on number one and marks line up. Any ideas appreciated, thanks and have a good day.
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I’m guessing a vacuum leak or some kind of post AFM air admittance. Perhaps the errant O2 fault is a result of more air going in than counted? Did you repeat your smoke test post gasket install? Maybe split an old vacuum line? At least that’s where my head is at. Otherwise, I’d say you’ve really gone through everything pretty well. Usually at this point I start going back through my tests to make sure I haven’t overlooked something.
I had forgot to mention I bought all new vacuum line and I did repeat smoke test and previous leak went away. Contacts and board in old AFM looked to have no unusual wear and the one I put in was refurbished. Guess I will go back and recheck everything again, got to be missing something. Thanks
Just guessing I hope you don’t have any kinked fuel line though it builds pressure gradually but when there is a sudden need of power the pressure drops.
I have the fuel gauge in line at the cold start injector and fuel pressure actually spikes just s hair before settling in around 40 pounds. Going to back and rechecking my rechecks.
I was looking up online your symptoms and found this forum link.
https://www.ttora.com/forum/18-pickup-early-4runner-tech/53048-fix-22re-hesitation-found.htmlHis main issue was the O2 sensor. Since your O2 Sensor code keeps popping up again it is likely other than the sensor there could be a problem with the wirings. It might be worth checking that out.
Thanks for the link and reply. I had seen that post in my searches but had not really revisited it. Being it throws the code, it is probably a good place to start. The plug was missing from the wiring and I found one in a salvage yard and soldered and shrinked it on the existing wires that all matched the ones from the plug. I put 2 different cheapo sensors in but I went ahead and sprung for the high dollar Denso unit and will install it tomorrow if it comes in by then and will post if it helps out. I will clear the codes in the unit and see how it runs with the correct 02 sensor.
Installed the correct O2 sensor with no real difference. Had to work on my daily driver so, will step back in when I can get on the little truck again.
Just a thought, but you might try a vacuum gauge test to 100% confirm there’s not some hidden, hard to find vacuum leak, or perhaps a stuck EGR issue or something. And, watch for a fluctuating needle which might indicate intake valve issues. If I take you literally, the truck was running fine until your paint work, then suddenly stopped? If that’s true, then it’s probably not due to engine fatigue, otherwise I’d recommend a compression test. But it might be good to do anyway, as a matter of course.
I did a compression test again cause it had been so long since I did it. First one I spun it about 10 times and it was 178 which seemed high. I spun it 4 times and it was 140, did each cylinder the same short spin and all read within 3 lbs across the board. Probably should have turned it till it quit going up.
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