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Just love the videos and glad you’re taking on the “sleeper” Fairmont. Just put a 5.0 HO in her. Then I can follow your progress and take notes.
I have a 94 Mustang (ok, so you’re not a Mustang guy)that has the 5.0 HO with 5-speed. Got it about a month ago as a project car. Was running rough and no power (although sometimes it would take off like a rabbit – aka fast). Had a pro mechanic (ie not me) check it out. Ended up rebuilding distributor, but also changed plugs, pvc valve, and fuel filter. Checked for vacuum leaks, checked compression, set timing. Seemed better but still not right. Watching Eric videos I changed plug wires, cleaned MAP sensor and checked for vacuum leaks (did not catch fire), also disconnected the battery so computer would have to re-learn. Seems much better (than when I got car) but still does not seem right. I mean it’s a 5.0 and it should easily have ‘pep.’ Now wondering about EGR. I also have not looked at computer (just wondering if someone put a cheap chip in it). I’ve run Chevron Techtron in gas with hopes of cleaning injectors but nothing more to them. Suggestions?
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Oh, the 5.0 HO is pretty stock except for cold air intake (filter is clean and no leaks) and shorty headers (put on by 1st owner – I am third)(and I really don’t know if I’m looking at shorty headers or stock anyway). Otherwise stock – at least that’s what I have been told.
Geez. Forgot this: I do get a check engine light at cruising speed but no under acceleration or deceleration. Told by mechanic it indicates a miss but not more. Ok, there you have it. I look forward to replies 🙂
Yea, dropping a 5.0 in there might be the way to go.
As for your issues. Anytime you have a check engine light and a performance problem, you need to start there first. Since it’s pre OBDII, you’ll need this.
Once you’ve got the code(s) you’ll have a good starting point.
This may also be helpful.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues
BTW, don’t forget about mechanical. Just because you have a performance problem that does not mean you have an electrical issue, it could just as easily be a mechanical problem so don’t rule that out. Much of this is covered in the above article.
Keep us posted.
Will do. Thanks. I have also signed up for the ETCG Meet Up. Road trip! Maybe the Reds will be in town. Building the Fairmont with “older” 5.0 (push rod) should save you some money. Of course I did see a 94 the other day with a 383 stroker in it. With no emissions test on pre-96 in North Carolina about anything is fair game. Stay dirty my friend.
Ford tech here wanted to throw this at u too. 5.0 are known for dirty iac valve they will make them run very poorly. Definitely wouldn’t hurt to disassemble and clean.
What kind of compression numbers were gotten from the compression test? Quite often bad numbers are called good ones. Even service manuals have incorrect info on this.
Regarding the ignition timing is it known if the SPOUT connector was unplugged during the timing check? This engine should be a TFI (Thick Film Integrated) version and if the SPOUT connector was not unplugged the timing will be off by a bunch.
Compression was checked by my mechanic (really good one)(unlike me)and numbers seemed good to him but actual numbers I do not know. I asked about SPOUT connector when I picked up the car (a few weeks ago now) and they knew about it (and even showed it to me) and they had removed it to set the timing. Since they set the timing probably based on a stock 5.0 HO and I have a cold air intake (which I see) and shorty headers (hey, I was told it had shorty headers by prior owner – and well, it does have headers) I’m wondering that could somehow change the proper setting of the timing. I understand that if you do change those two items (on a newer Mustang) you really need to retune the computer – not sure about the 94 though. Just to make it more interesting, it’s running really well this morning. Go figure. I want to clean the IAF sensor (hope I’m saying that right) and I thought about checking to see if the Cats are partially blocked (may get help if I try that idea). Thanks for the reply!
Will be using Eric’s ideas over this coming weekend. And also cleaning a few more sensors. It will be a slow process due to time restraints – but I got to admit… this is fun!
Keep us posted. You might go for the IAC first. Both myself and the Ford tech have suggested that. Good luck.
I could not get to the lower bolt on the IAC. There are some “high pressure” rubber hoses in the way. Tried extension and all. Just could not quite get a grip on the bolt head. One other thing: When I bought the car, I found a little dirty oil in the cold air intake. I cleaned up what I could. I cleaned that better today. Car has fresh oil for past 100 miles so I’m thinking (I’m hoping) I don’t have some other problem since the little bit of oil is much dirtier than what’s in the engine now. I replaced the PVC a couple of weeks ago when I saw that oil. Back to the IAC, I may take it to my mechanic and let him take it off – he would know what can be easily moved out of the way and what can’t. This afternoon car was running “ok” but still not right, so I’ll have my friend the pro deal with the IAC.
So much for vacuum hoses being in good shape. There’s one at the firewall that seems to be rotten and numerous places. I think it the gas vapor recycling system because at a t-intersection there seems to be the appropriate canister so I have that replaced tomorrow. But here’s a question – would that make the engine run rough? I seem to read different opinions on that.
Vacuum hoses (more than one) replaced. IAC cleaned. VERY close to being right. :woohoo: Low rpm pulling power is definitely up. Only occasional random sporadic miss (easier to feel at idle). :unsure: She is definitely feeling like a 5.0 although not (yet) 100%. For first time, I actually had to hold off full-throttle acceleration due to traffic ahead. 🙂 And on open road she wants to go. Periodic check engine light under easy pull no longer there. Coasting or hard pull, light was not on even before. Tempted to pay for injector cleaning procedures (About $100?) to see if that helps but thinking that is probably not really an issue. :unsure: When I got car a few months ago, it was very temperamental (wanting to choke) when cold but that also gone. Like I said very close to right. Recapping all that has been done: Rebuilt distributor, new coil, new plugs, wires, cleaned sensors, replaced vacuum lines that were bad, plus routine stuff like clean air filter, changed oil and filter, new gas filter, and new PVC. WHAT WOULD YOU TRY NEXT? :unsure:
As pointed out in the ‘Solving Performance Issues’ article, vacuum leaks can cause all sorts of issues.
As for the oil in the intake it could indicate a deeper problem. As an engine ages and gets worn there is more blow by. The PCV system can only do so much. If the engine is worn enough, you will experience a power loss as well as excessive oil in the intake. You say your compression numbers were good, but they might have been ‘good enough’. Also, a worn timing chain can cause problems. This will upset not only the engine timing, but also the mechanical timing of the engine. There’s information on that in the article I mentioned. Also worn cam lobes won’t show up on a compression test but will effect engine performance. Never rule out mechanical when dealing with performance issues. Especially on an older engine in a performance car with some miles on it.
Keep us posted.
Yep. Hoping that I don’t have major internal problems. If so, I’ll probably live with those for a while. If the engine say needed a rebuild, I’d probably opt for a crate motor of some kind instead of a rebuild. And since the car does not have to pass emissions in my state due to age might go with old school set up IF the engine I have now gets worse (if that is the real problem). The most interesting thing going on right now is that, at times, it really runs very well, and then at other times not. I’ve been checking and cleaning emission stuff and done the “normal” maintenance replacements but I’m leaning toward their still being an electrical problem (the literal loose wire) somewhere. My mechanic played with it last, so it’s my turn to play some more.
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