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Hello everyone, I’m new here but I have watch many videos of Eric the car guy, lol….I also have a little knowledge of simple mechanical issues. Anyways I have a 94 Honda civic for 18 yrs so I know a little of how it works, but this time it’s eating me, lol…..
It he car has been sitting for a long time, I would turn it on n take it for a spin 1x 2x a month, I had give me fuel pump problems from sitting on old gas, after a spin around the block I would shut it off and it would start also it has shut off by itself. After waiting for a while it would start. The fuel pump would not prime, since I have never replace it n been sitting for long so I decide to replace it, come to find that it still not priming, so I check the relay (pgm-fi) main, and also replaced the fuel pump relay. Now still NOTHING, no prime.
So I did a few troubleshooting…..spark plugs, igniter,rotor, coils, and even thought that the coils had some oil when I open it, everything has spark. I also did some relay troubleshooting ,I put a continuity tester from #1 n #7 and apply 12v to the relay, #2 been my grnd and #5 been +, now I get a clicking sound like the relay its closing but no continuity between the pump and anything. Not sure if I’m doing this right, but I NEED HELP……. I have included some pictures of the relay, diagrams of relay, and top of fuel pump. Also I check for fuel pressure by turn the ignition to the on position and fuel coming out of the filter, also I forgot to to said that out of the top of the pump I’m not getting any power with or without the ignition been on, hope I have explain good so ur guys can help me, thx…rob….
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I havent been able to check the ground from the Ecu, the ground from the ralay its good. Yes.when the fuel pump doesnt start the Car cranks….
Ok, rubflor……..I did all the check you listed here…..and the finding are…….relay to ground I ohm it and it 0 ohms……ecu to ground it’s 0-ohms…..now when I checked pin 8 from relay to ground and crack the car I get 9 VDc…how can I ohm out the clutch interlock switch?…
When the pump doesn’t prime, the car still crank trying to start but it doesn’t because it’s missing FUEL….
9vdc at pin 8 during start/crank means ECM/ECU is not providing ground to one coil of main relay.
This coil controls the contact that provides power to fuel pump.You can try installing a jumper between pin 2 and pin 8 at main relay connector/plug.
This will bypass the missing ground from ECM/ECU and use body ground.On clutch pedal, there are two switches mounted on pedal arm.
One is called the clutch interlock switch.
This switch has a two pin connector with wires color blue/black and black.
This switch controls the ground for coil of starter cut relay.
The starter cut relay contact provides power to solenoid of starter.
This switch is good because car will crank without power to fuel pump.The other switch is called the clutch switch.
This switch provides a ground to ECM/ECU.
This clutch switch tells the computer that clutch pedal is depress–safe to start.
This switch also has a two pin connector with wire color pink/black and black.
Remove this connector and ohm out the switch while you depress clutch pedal.If switch is good, then need to ohm out wires
At clutch switch connector— ohm out black wire to body ground.
Than ohm out pink/black wire to ECM/ECU connector B pin B7 (pink/black wire).
Don’t forget to disconnect battery before removing connector from ECM/ECU.Ok..i jumped relay’s 2&8 and the pump comes on when i turn the keys to start/crank…Now let me understand this right originally when the key is turned start/crank position the fuel pump will prime for a 2 seconds…and when ever the car starts the pump will stay on right?…with #2 & #8 jumped the pump stay on all the time?..will that staind/overworked the Pump? Now i havent check the clutch switch for the ground so could that be the ground that im missing?
“Ok..i jumped relay’s 2&8 and the pump comes on when i turn the keys to start/crank”
This means ECM/ECU is not providing a ground to one coil of mail relay that controls contact for power to fuel pump. This does not mean ECM/ECU is bad. ECM/ECU may be missing an input/output from
a switch or sensor.“Now let me understand this right originally when the key is turned start/crank position the fuel pump will prime for a 2 seconds”
No–only when key is in the running/on position.“and when ever the car starts the pump will stay on right?”
Yes.“with #2 & #8 jumped the pump stay on all the time?..will that staind/overworked the Pump?”
Yes and no.
Yes only if motor is not running and key in running/on position.
No if motor is running.“i havent check the clutch switch for the ground so could that be the ground that im missing?”
Maybe— the clutch switch only provides a ground (one input) to ECM/ECU computer. There are
also many input/output to/from ECM/ECU. Any missing input/output can cause ECM/ECU to not output a ground to the coil of main relay.Does the civic has any other electrical problems?
Is there any check engine light on?
Is this civic a DX, EX, or LX?
Does civic have SRS (air bags)?
Its a Lx..it has srs…engine light its been on for a while..and no electrical problems that i remember..
Need to post codes.
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8M5BaAa6tCM&feature=share&list=PLCD2DBE711838A21E[/video]Hey Rubflor…..i understand the video i seen it b4, but going back to the previous question is it safe to keep the fuel pump jumped?..or should i keep troubleshooting to see where is the main problem comin from???..should i mess with the clutch switch??..because instead of comin up with the code can i just drive up to advance auto parts. Or maybe this model dont have the plug to retrive the codes?..
I did the code retrival and the only thing flashing is tha SRS/airbags….I don’t know….also NOW with the relay jumped from 2&8 the fuel pump its on and still crank but NO START…..WHAT THA….frostruated……I’m back to square 1….
This didn’t post when I hit submit 3-4 hours ago!
“but going back to the previous question is it safe to keep the fuel pump jumped?”
Yes ONLY if motor is running with key in the running/on position.
With key out–there should no power to fuel pump.
Use volt meter to check for power at pump fuel with key removed.“should i keep troubleshooting to see where is the main problem comin from?”
Yes—this just a temp fix.
This jumper shows ECM/ECU is not providing a ground to main relay.
But why—is ECM/ECU missing a input/output and not allowing a ground output to main relay.
Or is ECM/ECU bad?“should i mess with the clutch switch”
Yes—this switch provides an input (a ground zero volt signial) to ECM/ECU.
This is only one of many input to/from ECM/ECU.“because instead of comin up with the code can i just drive up to advance auto parts. Or maybe this model dont have the plug to retrive the codes?”
The civic is OBDI and does not have a OBDII plug.
The auto parts store may have a OBDI scanner for Honda—try it[quote=”Nerves” post=55829]I did the code retrival and the only thing flashing is tha SRS/airbags….I don’t know….also NOW with the relay jumped from 2&8 the fuel pump its on and still crank but NO START…..WHAT THA….frostruated……I’m back to square 1….[/quote]
You are not back to square one. Just need a break from this car.
The ECM/ECU may be the cause of the car not starting.
Still need to check clutch switch next time you feel up to troubleshoot.Maybe its time to call a tow and take your car to a auto electrical shop for repair.
When you were checking for codes, was jumper still installed at main relay?
If yes–motor is flooded with fuel.
Remove one spark plug and smell for gas.
If jumper install at main relay with key in the running/on position, MOTOR
MUST BE RUNNING!I would now remove jumper.
We now know ECM/ECU is not giving a ground to one coil of main relay.I would still ohm out clutch switch.
Try again next weekend.
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