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94 Honda civic fuel pump

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  • #511104
    RobertRobert
    Participant

      Hello everyone, I’m new here but I have watch many videos of Eric the car guy, lol….I also have a little knowledge of simple mechanical issues. Anyways I have a 94 Honda civic for 18 yrs so I know a little of how it works, but this time it’s eating me, lol…..
      It he car has been sitting for a long time, I would turn it on n take it for a spin 1x 2x a month, I had give me fuel pump problems from sitting on old gas, after a spin around the block I would shut it off and it would start also it has shut off by itself. After waiting for a while it would start. The fuel pump would not prime, since I have never replace it n been sitting for long so I decide to replace it, come to find that it still not priming, so I check the relay (pgm-fi) main, and also replaced the fuel pump relay. Now still NOTHING, no prime.
      So I did a few troubleshooting…..spark plugs, igniter,rotor, coils, and even thought that the coils had some oil when I open it, everything has spark. I also did some relay troubleshooting ,I put a continuity tester from #1 n #7 and apply 12v to the relay, #2 been my grnd and #5 been +, now I get a clicking sound like the relay its closing but no continuity between the pump and anything. Not sure if I’m doing this right, but I NEED HELP……. I have included some pictures of the relay, diagrams of relay, and top of fuel pump. Also I check for fuel pressure by turn the ignition to the on position and fuel coming out of the filter, also I forgot to to said that out of the top of the pump I’m not getting any power with or without the ignition been on, hope I have explain good so ur guys can help me, thx…rob….

    Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 52 total)
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    • #511107
      college mancollege man
      Moderator

        First check all those fuses.there should be 12v
        at 6-8 this is the coil listen for a click when
        the coil is energized. you can check 7-5 with an
        ohm meter. You could jumper 7-5 at the plug and
        see if the fuel pump runs.

        #511795
        RobertRobert
        Participant

          Sorry College Man, and others, I was having problems with this forum and replaying to it…. But college man I try everything you suggested and nothing, the relay tested good. I go thru all my test on the relay and everything has power except the yellow n green wire that is the fuel pump. The wire from the relay/plug to the pump are good I tested them for continuity .

          #511882
          Ruben FloresRuben Flores
          Participant

            This relay has two contacts.
            To check 1st contact;
            pin 5 = 12vdc
            pin 2 = ground
            Put ohm meter on pins 1 and 3, meter should read near zero ohm.
            IF not, contact is bad-replace relay.
            To check 2nd contact;
            pin 6 = 12vdc
            pin 8 = ground
            Put ohm meter on pins 5 and 7, meter chould read near zero ohm.
            If not, contact is bad-replace relay.

            Try checking all three fuses that supply power to the relay.
            Check pin 1 at the relay CONNECTER for 12vdc.
            If 12vdc is present at pin 1- install a jumper between pin 1 and pin 7 at the relay connecter. This will apply 12vdc to fuel pump and you should hear fuel pump turn on. If you don’t hear the fuel pump turn on-leave pin 1 and pin 7 jumper, disconnect connecter at fuel pump and check for 12vdc. If 12 vdc present at fuel pump connecter- bad fuel pump. If zero vdc at fuel pump connecter, remove jumper at relay connecter pin 1 and pin 7 and ckeck wiring from relay connecter to pump fuel pump for open.

            #511955
            college mancollege man
            Moderator

              [quote=”Nerves” post=54792]Sorry College Man, and others, I was having problems with this forum and replaying to it…. But college man I try everything you suggested and nothing, the relay tested good. I go thru all my test on the relay and everything has power except the yellow n green wire that is the fuel pump. The wire from the relay/plug to the pump are good I tested them for continuity .[/quote]

              did you jumper 5 and 7? I’m wondering if you have a problem
              with the electrical portion of the ignition switch?

              #511964
              RobertRobert
              Participant

                I have done all the checks at the relay, it’s a 2 part relay. I have the jumpers between 1 k 5, 1& 7, etc,etc. I get power everywhere except at the wire that goes to the fuel pump.

                #511965
                RobertRobert
                Participant

                  Yes I did jumper 5&7, I did all the troubleshooting at the relay and checks out good except the wire going to the pump, I’m getting spark at the spark plugs, I even did a tune up. When I turn the keys the pump not priming,, …

                  #511976
                  RobertRobert
                  Participant

                    Ok, guys. I think I’m on to something here, I decided to unplug the computer in the car, I turn the key to the on position and touched and moved the wires/plugs a little bit and all of the sudden the pump turn on, I started the car, turn it off so I can take it for a spin and it happen again, it won’t come on, now I’m unplugging, touching, moving wires at the computer and NOTHING, What now?…..lol…

                    #512013
                    Ruben FloresRuben Flores
                    Participant

                      Lets assume relay is good.
                      Now need to check for all three 12vdc inputs and one ground to relay.
                      Use your volt meter with one test lead to a body gound (screw/bolt/nut).
                      All checks will be at relay connector/plug.

                      Step one:
                      With key out — check for 12vdc at pin 1.
                      If 12vdc at pin 1—supply input good.
                      If 0vdc at pin 1—-supply input bad.

                      Step two:
                      With key in; move to run/on position—- check for 12vdc at pin 1 and pin 5.
                      If 12vdc at pin 1 and pin 5—–supply inputs are good.
                      If 0vdc at pin 1 and/or pin 5——supply input bad.

                      Step three:
                      With key in; move to start/crank position—–check for 12vdc at pin 1, pin 5, and pin 6.
                      If 12vdc at pin 1, pin 5 and pin 6 —- all supply inputs are good.
                      If 0vdc at pin 1, pin 5, and/or pin 6—-supply input bad.

                      Step four:
                      With your meter set to ohnms.
                      With key out—–check pin 2 for a good connection to ground,
                      If near zero ohms—–good ground.
                      If any ohms or open—- bad ground; check wire for loose/broken connection.

                      Have to agree with collage man. Your electrical portion of ignition switch may be bad.
                      BUT, a bad supply input can be also cause by a clutch interlock switch or ECU. Use your
                      service mannual to locate supply inputs. Look under system description–electrical connections.

                      #512015
                      MichaelMichael
                      Participant

                        [quote=”Nerves” post=54869]Ok, guys. I think I’m on to something here, I decided to unplug the computer in the car, I turn the key to the on position and touched and moved the wires/plugs a little bit and all of the sudden the pump turn on, I started the car, turn it off so I can take it for a spin and it happen again, it won’t come on, now I’m unplugging, touching, moving wires at the computer and NOTHING, What now?…..lol…[/quote]

                        i have the same thing with a car i have in now i didnt unplug ecu but i moved the wires on the ignition switch and the pump started car run turn off re started fine left it for a day no pump no start even if i moved wires like last time. so i guess it was luck.

                        few things u could try if not done
                        diagnostic test
                        check earths
                        run a permanent live to fuel pump would rule out a few things(not a fix)
                        pull wire plugs out and back in to fuse box one at a time
                        the list goes on and on

                        but id guess
                        ecu(never seen one prime with ecu unplugged)
                        fuse box
                        earth
                        bad wires
                        relay
                        fuse
                        fuel pump

                        #512063
                        college mancollege man
                        Moderator

                          [quote=”Nerves” post=54869]Ok, guys. I think I’m on to something here, I decided to unplug the computer in the car, I turn the key to the on position and touched and moved the wires/plugs a little bit and all of the sudden the pump turn on, I started the car, turn it off so I can take it for a spin and it happen again, it won’t come on, now I’m unplugging, touching, moving wires at the computer and NOTHING, What now?…..lol…[/quote]

                          If you touch and move wires and the pump comes on.
                          something is loose or frayed or not making good contact.

                          #512071
                          RobertRobert
                          Participant

                            Rubflor………I did the 12v checks the #5, & #6 are the only ones I’m having trouble with, because when I check it at the relay plug with or without the relay in, there’s no Voltage, with key in on the on/run position I get nothing, Now key in the crank/start position I get 12v, #6 it makes a click And I get nothing. I Notice that I play a little with the ignition switch/keys and its coming on and off more often but it’s on and off. So is it maybe the switch/ignition itself like COLLAGE MAN said?……

                            #512080
                            Ruben FloresRuben Flores
                            Participant

                              Supply inputs pin 5 and pin 6 come from ignition switch.
                              I would replace the the electrical portion of your ignition switch.
                              Follow the procedures in your service manual and disconnect your battery for safety.
                              Need more information about your car.
                              Engine size, type transmission, and 2 or 4 door.

                              #512102
                              RobertRobert
                              Participant

                                1994 Honda civic, 1.5L, 4dr, 5speed.if i can see videos, walked thru, research on how to change the electrical part of the ignition, i know i can do it myself. I mechanical incline…lol….thx for the help…

                                #512222
                                Ruben FloresRuben Flores
                                Participant

                                  Check youtube.com. Found this but it’s for accord.

                                  Hope this link works—-not very good at this computer workings.
                                  Watch both parts

                                  #512230
                                  RobertRobert
                                  Participant

                                    Ok. My next thing is to set it on Fire.lol…i did find that video i reviewed and ran some test on my electrical porton of my ignition and it was bad. I went and got a new hardness, i ran the same test just in case to see the different and the old one was bad, so sfter intalling it the pump primed i did it like 3x and then i went to do again and it did a click and there it is again NOTHING…Pump not priming…I don’t know what else to do.if I should change everything old relay, old fuses,everything brand new.

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