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Whay deos it takes a little bit to cath speed, wueh it does it feels like it works fine but not at the dead line, I checked everything on the out side, a mechenic told me i must remove the transmission from the car in order to replace the oil filter wic is the cause of the problem, clogged out transmission oil filter, would this be correct?
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I don’t mean to insult you but I’m having a hard time trying to understand what you’re trying to tell us. Maybe try again.
Ok . my car starts up ok, if I put it in drive on pavement and push the pedal to the bottom it will accelerate so slow, maybe when it gets to 2500 rpms it feels like if I release the nitro, you can feel the push and I know there is good psi per piston about 150 psi ea and it just keeps going really fast untill it jumps to 2nd gear it does the same, after that it works fine, I think because there is enough pressure in the oil sistem at high rpm. that the oil will pass trough the filter even if is clogged up
Ahhh, That’s better…A couple of things come to mind. I really don’t think your transmission is the problem at all.
I would be checking things like the ignition system (Spark plugs etc.) fuel filter, ignition timing,and valve adjustment. When was the last time the timing belt was changed?
I don’t know ,I bought it a year ago ,but thanks for the advice , I’ll make a full tune up and see if it does any difference.
Dante’s issue sounds a lot like mine. I have a 95 civic 1.6 vtec sohc with a/t. I noticed that the car idled pretty bad (about 300rpms feels like the cars gone stall out) in reverse and in D4/D3, but would idle somewhat alright in park and neutral(about 600 rpms most of the time). Also when driving the car feels like it doesn’t have any power. I step on the accelerator to the floor and the car slowly picks up speed. It revs up to 4k before it shifts to the next gear. After awhile the CEL came on for a VSS (code 17). I tried looking for vacuum leaks but found none. I cleaned out the IACV and checked the FIAV (to try to fix the idle problem) and both of them seemed fine. I bled out the coolant system with a spill-free funnel. But it still idles poorly. I replaced the VSS figuring that the car wasn’t accelerating right because it wasn’t receiving a proper signal. The CEL went away and hasn’t come back on so far. The still idles poorly and accelerates slow. I replaced the plugs and wires a few months ago, so my next guess would be to check ignition timing and timing belt. Has anyone else experience this problem. Any help would be great, thanks.
I hate to see people just blindly throw parts at a problem.
First up, get a compression gauge, do a compression test. Make certain that the engine is mechanically capable of running properly. If the compression test shows problems, fix or replace the engine. If the compression test turns out good the move on.
First up, check your air filter, is it clean? How about the fuel filter? They tend to be forgotten / neglected in these cars because they are in an awful spot to get at. Timing, check it, make sure it is set properly. Spark Plugs, I’ve heard many people say that the Honda engines don’t like the fancy high dollar plugs. Stick with NGK, and use the cheap ones at that, I think they are called v power or something similar. Distributor cap and rotor, make sure they are clean, dry, no cracks, no carbon tracks, and the contacts aren’t all burned up or corroded. Also make sure the inside of the distributor isn’t full of oil. If it is, you either need to replace the distributor, or hunt down the proper NOK seal for the inside of it (Honda doesn’t sell it) as well as the O rings for the outside, and tear it down to replace those. Lastly, I would pull the timing cover, and check to see if the timing marks line up, perhaps the timing belt has stretched, or skipped a tooth.
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