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Hi guys, I have 94 honda accord LX 2.2L Manual transmission. The issue I’m having is the car wont turn over. It stalled out on me when i was coming to stop at a traffic light and wouldnt turn back on. When i turned the key all I heard was a whining sound coming from the engine. When i got it towed back to my house I tried push starting it and that did not work. The whining sound I know is the started spinning. I replaced the starter with a brand new OEM one and it does the same thing. It is also getting spark and the crank pully is spinning because my alt and ps belts are spinning. It just sounds as if the top half of the engine is not running. I replaced the engine on this car about a year ago and when I did this I replaced the the fuel pump, the main relay for the fuel pump under the dash and the gas filter. Could this be an ignition switch issue?
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no compression in all cylinders…out of time or completely flooded….the reason it sound so different when starting is because it has no compression…keep us posted, im putting my $ that it jumped time majorly of flooooooooooded…put the petal to the floor and crank crank….
If the plugs are black and it runs like crap, I would look at the injectors. I put a new engine in a 94 Accord EX and it wouldn’t run at all. I spent lots of time diagnosing it, but I gave up and took it to a shop that I trust that only works on Asian cars. They spent 2 days on it – and almost gave up – but turns out my injectors mysteriously went bad. A nice used rail from a salvage yard brought the car back to life. I’m thinking somehow swapping parts around disturbed the balance of the universe and the crud inside of the injectors caused them to fail.
But could the engine flood while driving? I was driving it when it stalled out when i was coming to a stop at a traffic light almost as if i still had the car in gear. Im gonna go put my spark plugs back in and put my valve cover and timing covers back on and try cranking it with my foot in the pedal. And tge timing seems fine, hopefully this will solve it.
It’s not likely that it flooded while driving as you suggest, there may be some other issue like perhaps an idle control valve that’s not working correctly and perhaps letting in too much air or not enough when you come to a stop causing it to stall, this could also create a situation where the engine might flood if it’s not allowing the correct amout of air to pass past the throttle plate. Or this could have nothing to do with it but if you don’t have compression on all cylinders it’s either completely flooded or jumped time as has been suggested.
Thanks for the response. I checked the timing and it seems to be correct. I also tried starting the car with the gas pedal down, tried starting it for about 30 min, I turned the key for about a min then let it sit for a min so I wouldn’t kill the starter. I did notice tho smoke coming out a plastic air duct by the battery, I believe it’s part of the air intake. A neighbor of mine that just started working for Honda as a mechanic suggested it may be a clogged cat as he has seen that happen before.
You have spark, the car cranks but won’t start, and replacing the starter and examining the timing belt showed no obvious abnormality. You must have checked fuel, but I don’t see that part of the exam in your description. Can you smell gas at the throttle body? Something doesn’t add up, because you should have compression…. Complete lack of compression suggests an ominous mechanical problem or a gross timing problem. Can you turn the crank with a breaker bar?
If it’s completely flooded the plugs may be soaked with gas, if this is the case they need to be dried out or replaced before you crank the engine with your foot to the floor. I also leave the plugs out for a bit to air out the cylinders, you might also consider a drop of oil into each of the cylinders to help it gain compression as well but not too much.
The smoke you saw may be the starter circuit overheating, next time only go 15 min max with breaks in between attempts.
Ok well since I had time today I re-checked the timing. I got the crank to tdc and I noticed the cam gear was not at tdc, it was pointing to 3 o’clock which means I did jump a bunch of teeth. I decided to just take everything apart and just re-time it just do I can get throught the winter then when it gets nice out again I’ll buy the kit and do the repair again. I’m glad I did it this way because after I got it all timed up and back together it does the same thing. I also don’t think the engine is flooded because I did the rubber hose trick to get the crank bolt off and it did not have any gas on it. Is their anything else that can cause this? Maybe tomorrow I’ll take a video of it do you guys can hear it.
You really don’t need to remove the crank pulley to retime the engine, you just need to take the upper cover off and loosten the adjusting bolt. That said if you jumped time you really should be replacing the belt because it’s very likely to be damaged. In addition if you were that far out of time it’s possible that you might have bent a vlave or valves so the next step would be to do a leak down test to determine if the compression loss is in the top or bottom of the engine.
Hi guys just thought would give you an update on the situation. I havent worked on it since my last post because i’ve been busy but was thinking maybe when I put the cam back in time with everything else i may not have timed it for TDC on the compression stroke. I am going to work on it this weekend bt before i tear everything down is there a way to tell if it is not timed correctly on the compression stroke?
After you correct the mechanical timing, you should redo the compression test to see where stand after that.
The timing marks are pretty clear but keep in mind that engine uses a secondary timing belt for the balance shaft and the oil pump that must also be timed. As long as you have the upper cover removed you can line up the marks for the cam and check the marks for the crank, this will at least give you the info you will need to see if it’s mechanically in time or not. You’ll need to remove the lower timing cover to check the balance shaft belt alignment but that won’t cause a no start if it’s out it will just cause the engine to run rough especially on acceleration.
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