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94 ford ranger 4.0 4×4 5 speed
i was having some issues a few weeks ago with my ranger, it was not ideling. found the problem to be the idle air control valve. i clean the iacv and problem seemed to be fixed. yesterday same problem but now the engine wont rev. i pulled the trouble codes number 57 and 58.
i changed the iacv now it idles as it should but still has the intermittent issue of it not wanting to rev. i then changed the throttle position censor and same issue. but now after resting the computer i have code 57 (key on engine off)
all wireing has been inspected and tested. fuel pressure is within spec, spark plugs and wires are fine. changed them last year but still inspected them.when driving and it starts acting up (not revving)it sounds like its misfiring on multiple cylingers, and a strong smell of unburnt fuel. push in the clutch let off the throttle and it wants to idle, with clutch still in it wont rev. clutch out same thing idles but wont rev.
at this point i am at loss and not sure where to start next, any help would be greatly appreciated.
*update key on engine ON codes 41, 25, 38
* key on engine OFF 57
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Code 25= Knock Sensor Code 57 Timing shorting bar removed
41= System lean
38= Idle tracking switchOK HERE IS A TEST TO DO FOR THE CODE57
Codes: 57, 341
Problem: Octane adjust shorting bar has been removed.
Test & Fix: Code 57 or 341 (on vehicles with 3 digit codes) is an informational code indicating that the octane adjust shorting bar has been removed. This shorting bar looks like the SPOUT (timing) connector and is located in the harness, usually near the EEC-IV self-test connector. It was placed in the system by the manufacturer in order to provide capability for a slight adjustment of the ignition timing. If it is removed, the PCM provides about 3 degrees less timing advance under conditions where spark knock is likely to occur.
HERE IS ANOTHER COMMON TROUBLE THAT MAY CAUSE THE PROBLEMS YOU HAVE Mass Airflow Sensor.
Tests/Procedures: 1. Check for battery voltage on the Red wire at the MAF sensor.
2. If OK, with the MAF sensor plugged in, check for good grounds on the Black (BK) wire and the Tan/Light Blue (T/LB) wires.
3. If OK, check the Light Blue/Red (LB/R) wire that goes to pin 14 of the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) for shorts or open circuit.
4. If OK, replace the MAF sensor.
Potential Causes: Harness
Defective Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
Pigtail – Defective MAF sensor pigtail connector.Tech Tips: Ford has had problems with the MAF sensor connector
there was corrosion on the spout connector, cleaned it up and problem solved.
never knew about the spout connector until now…. call me stupid but i thought that was a cap lol, never really had any reason to disconnect it until now. otherwise i would have noticed it was some sort of bridge/ connector.
thank you for the help wysetech
started having the same issue today, but now it wont idle. acting like it was a faulty idle air control valve. want to ford, they told me $60 to hook it up to there OBD reader. im not paying that. so i asked if it was a 2 digit or 3 digit code. it is 3 digit code. so i misdiagnosed the problem the first time.
went home and ran the self diagnostic test.
codes that came up 157, 158, and 159, which is MAF sensor circuit open. MAF sensor shorted to power. MAF sensor is out of Self-Test.
i went to the junk yard and picked up another MAF sensor, and now the problem is worse. i think the one i picked up is bad because now it idels like crap, smells rich. and will not rev when throttle is to the floor, is there any way to test the maf sensor? no codes are coming up now after swapping the maf.
truck runs fine with the maf unpluggedAnother important thing with MAF sensors is that there aren’t any leaks between the sensor and the engine. If there are, it can upset the MAF sensor readings and cause idle and performance problems. So it’s a good idea to check for leaks in the tube that goes from the sensor to the engine.
I sometimes check them by tapping on them with a screwdriver handle. If they act up when I do this I replace them with new parts. More info here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues
Good luck and keep us posted.
i did end up taping on the MAF shortly after making the post yesterday, it started to run normal when i did. and to double check i checked both the original and used maf sensor with a volt meter.
so the original and the junkyard MAF were both bad. that is the risk of used parts. forked out the money for an new MAF and all is well. i did check all hoses from the MAF to the throttle body, and checked for vacuum leaks.
plugs, wires, vacuum leaks, and intake are always one of the first thing i check before i even pull codes on any car that has performance issues.if i would have taken the time the first time to see if it was a 2 or 3 digit code i would have got it right the first time. just goes to show rushing will get you nowhere.
thanks for the help
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