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Hi Eric/Folks,
Any help the Jedi Masters on this site can provide it’d be greatly appreciated. Recently I completed a timing belt job on my friend’s ’94 Accord, F22B1 engine (used Eric’s VManual to do the job 😉 ‘nough said). Also replaced the 3 oil seals (Cam, front balancer and crankshaft). When I first removed the lower over, there was a little bitty trace of oil at the bottom of the timing belt chamber, just below the crankshaft where the Crank sensor sits (this engine doesn’t come with it). The smudge didn’t appear to be from fresh oil – a few months earlier, the oil filter’s seal had come apart and made a giant mess in the engine compartment, spilling oil all over the place & coming close to seizing the engine – so I figured the gummy oil was probably from that incident and the fact the lower cover’s gasket is a bit over-stretched and in not the greatest of shapes.After completing the timing belt job, together with an oil pan gasket replacement – and a ton of other repairs – while inspecting my work I noticed fresh oil leaking from inside the timing belt chamber, same place (bottom of the lower cover), so I thought I had messed one of the seal replacements. Took the car apart again and happy to report my work was not the culprit (how could it, I followed Eric’s instructions to a T :-D), rather, I noticed a fresh oil drop collecting at the bottom of one of the balancer gear case’s fasteners (see pic).
Inspecting the gear case (moving it, shaking it, etc), I’m unable to replicate the problem to see where exactly it’s leaking from, but I know that while the engine’s running, oil does leak. I ordered the O-Ring replacements for the balancer gear case (and two other o-rings and gasket for the oil pump assy
just in case I need to replace more) which I’ll be installing tomorrow, but, Am I ok just replacing the O-Ring (see illustration) and not the entire balancer gear case assy?
I’m hoping to not having to do that as it is very expensive at $206+S/H. But I’m also afraid of replacing that o-ring and still not fixing the problem. I noticed when I first attempted to remove the gear case a ton of oil’s about to drip, much more than what’s dripping on its own.
Any suggestions and advise would be much obliged. Thank you Everyone!
PS: I apologize for the long explanations, but figured the more detail I provide the easier it is for you to help me.
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It looks like #4- #5 O ring will solve the leak.
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/finding-and-fixing-leaks/finding-and-fixing-leaks
Thanks for the input. I started the replacement of the O-Rings and gaskets. Trying to put it back together now but I’m running into a pickle. I’ve re-installed the oil pump, but the rear balancer shaft gets stuck once the oil pump housing is in place. I’ve taken it out twice and checked my steps but so far I can’t figure why it’s locking the rear balancer shaft shut except that the oil pump’s shaft housing is so tight on the shaft that it won’t let it spin at all, it’s completely stuck. After removing the pump and again cleaning all the High Temp RTV the shaft spins freely again so I know it isn’t damaged. added a little of LUcas’ X-Tra Heavy Duty grease to the balance shaft, the shaft’s housing on the oil pump and still, when the shaft goes thru the housing the shaft gets stuck, it won’t spin at all as if it’s been seized. I’m using a phillips screwdriver as a balance shaft holder instead of a 6x100mm bolt and it works fine.
Is there a specific trick/tip to installing the balance shaft thru the oil pump housing I’m not aware of? Thanks for your input.
[quote=”jmlarios13″ post=182319]Thanks for the input. I started the replacement of the O-Rings and gaskets. Trying to put it back together now but I’m running into a pickle. I’ve re-installed the oil pump, but the rear balancer shaft gets stuck once the oil pump housing is in place. I’ve taken it out twice and checked my steps but so far I can’t figure why it’s locking the rear balancer shaft shut except that the oil pump’s shaft housing is so tight on the shaft that it won’t let it spin at all, it’s completely stuck. After removing the pump and again cleaning all the High Temp RTV the shaft spins freely again so I know it isn’t damaged. added a little of LUcas’ X-Tra Heavy Duty grease to the balance shaft, the shaft’s housing on the oil pump and still, when the shaft goes thru the housing the shaft gets stuck, it won’t spin at all as if it’s been seized. I’m using a phillips screwdriver as a balance shaft holder instead of a 6x100mm bolt and it works fine.
Is there a specific trick/tip to installing the balance shaft thru the oil pump housing I’m not aware of? Thanks for your input.[/quote]
see if this helps.
Thanks, I actually do have the OEM service manuals, that’s what I followed to the letter. Just seems that the rear balancer shaft fits too tight over the oil pump housing’s orifice and when I tighten the fasteners to secure the pump just clamps it down. I’m going to remove it again and clean the RTV again, only this time I’ll do test-runs of installing it w/o the RTV ’till I figure out how to get it right, then I’ll reapply the RTV for good again.
College man, thank you brother, you’re always a huge help and great with your input. I call you Eric’s right hand man.
I’ll report when I finish, maybe someone can learn from my mistake 🙂
Cheers[quote=”jmlarios13″ post=182328]Thanks, I actually do have the OEM service manuals, that’s what I followed to the letter. Just seems that the rear balancer shaft fits too tight over the oil pump housing’s orifice and when I tighten the fasteners to secure the pump just clamps it down. I’m going to remove it again and clean the RTV again, only this time I’ll do test-runs of installing it w/o the RTV ’till I figure out how to get it right, then I’ll reapply the RTV for good again.
College man, thank you brother, you’re always a huge help and great with your input. I call you Eric’s right hand man.
I’ll report when I finish, maybe someone can learn from my mistake 🙂
Cheers[/quote]Your most welcome. 😉
Unfortunately no difference. The Balancer driven gear won’t spin and thus won’t allow the pump to spin. Any help is appreciated. Here’s a synopsis:
1. Balancer shaft and gear were perfectly working before I removed the gear and the gear case. Have full replacement seals, O-Rings and gaskets for this job.
2. I only removed the pump to replace the o-rings and gaskets including the oil pan (leaking oil).
3. Didn’t remove the rear balancer shaft, I just pinned it in place w/ a phillips screwdriver (see pics)Any other questions please ask, and thank you for your opinion(s) and help. I’m really stuck here.
[quote=”jmlarios13″ post=182475]Eric, any ideas?
Thanks..[/quote]
When you say the gear won’t turn? When the engine is cranked?
When I install the oil pump, the rear balancer shaft has to go thru a cylindrical hole on the oil pump to protrude the portion of it where the gear is mounted to. After doing that, it is so tight that the shaft won’t spin like it’s supposed to, it’s like it’s seized in place. The picture above where I say “Won’t spin”, there in that position, that gear is stuck. It’s supposed to be able to spin so the oil pump balance gear will spin as well just like when you have to set it in correct timing to re-install the timing balancer belt. I can try & make a video and show you what I mean. If I remove the oil pump again then the shaft’s free again like nothing. It’s as if the cylindrical hole it goes thru has shrunk to where it doesn’t give enough play for the shaft to spin (I do put ample amount of engine oil on the shaft and the cylindrical hole before installing it, still won’t allow the shaft to spin).
Thank you..Perhaps this video will help clear what I mean. The locking up is visible towards the end of the video. Thanks.
Find video here: https://youtu.be/y6vEod8lj8QThanks a mill…
Sorry, I’d accidentally set it as private I’ve changed it to public and you should be able to see it now.
College Man, thank you for your help. Here’s how I fixed it. Basically the trick is to insert the shaft thru the hole so it rests on its 1st Journal. I was just barely putting it thru the hole on the oil pump housing and that would cause it to lock up when fastening the bolt.
A shortened snapshop version can be seen here: https://youtu.be/lG9xzGm38i4
A more complete 11minute video can be seen here: https://youtu.be/nbBjXw3rw-c
Thanks College man and of course, Eric. Hope this helps someone.
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