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Hey Gang,
My first time posting a question here, but certainly not my first time using Eric as the gold mine of auto goodness that he is! I’ve watched a great many videos on here about “no starting” cars, but I can’t find anything about cars that start, run fine, and then stall without warning, usually when somewhere totally inconvenient.
I have a 94 accord lx. It will start, run fine, and then, on occasion just stall out. Usually, if I let it sit for 10 minutes or more, it will crank back up and run again. There appears to be no direct (large obvious cause).
Battery holds charge just fine (probably not a battery/alternator issue)
Battery cranks just fine (ignition seems to work well)
Runs fine (no chugging, sluggishness)It’s almost like there might be some sort of loose connection occasionally gets detached and then cuts the car off.
Any ideas about cars that DO start but occasionally stall out?
Thanks,
Will
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Just found out that it is throwing an O2 sensor code. COuld the O2 sensor going bad cause these symptoms?
what code was it? you may have a problem with the ignition
switch.Try wiggling the key while the car is running.if the car
shuts off.replace the electrical portion of the ignition switch.Did the key jiggle thing with no problems. I’ve picked up a new O2 sensor because it was showing an error code for it. Will install it in am and see how it goes.
Just so you all know, even if you weren’t interested, after I installed the new upstream o2 sensor the check engine light went off and it seems to have remedied the problem.banana:
Well that’s awesome I didn’t even have to offer any advice and you fixe it yourself, well done. I suppose it’s possible that the O2 was the issue I have seen that from time to time. Seriously well done on solving the problem. Keep us posted if things change.
Alright gang, had a funny thing happen this am. I’m not getting any error codes. The check engine light is still off. Super cold morning here for the south and the car cranked up just fine. As I came to the stop at the end of my street the car died. Just like before, my car died. This is the first time that it has happened since the o2 sensor was changed. Naturally, I checked to see if anything electrical had come loose. All the battery cables were in place just fine. I’m thinking this might be a main relay problem now. Is it possible (per Eric’s videos) that a faulty relay will cause a car to start but in cold weather fail even once you’ve started?
What are you guys thinking?
Also, does anyone know where the main relay is on a 94 accord? My Haynes manual only gives some very general pictures without any sort of clear designation.
Main relays don’t often cause that issue, if the main relay is the problem you normally get a crank no start condition, I’ve never seen one cut off while the engine is running. Ignition switches however go bad all the time on those cars and cause a condition like that. Try wiggling the key as the engine runs, if it stalls then I would recommend replacing the electrical portion of the ignition switch.
I’ve tried wiggling the key (rather vigorously, I might add) with no stalling. Is it possible that it’s something deeper in the electrical of the ignition? Is there a way to “fix” as in the main relay situation, or is this a auto zone replacement part type of fix?
I’d look for cracked solder joints and repair my main relay first before using an Autozone part, the OE part isn’t that expensive and is the only part I would use as a replacement. Once again I don’t think that’s your problem because it doesn’t fit the profile of a failed main relay. By any chance do you have an aftermarket distributor?
I do not have an after market distributor. So, after doing some digging I see that other people have had the same symptoms (stalling randomly) at it was the ignition. Which part do I need to pick up? Is it just the ignition switch I’ll need or more bits and pieces? I watched a video on it and it looks like a fairly easy job, aside from the general dismantling involved, but hey, that’s the fun part anyway! Stay dirty, right?
I hate shotgunning parts but to answer your question the job is fairly easy. All you need to do is replace the plastic electrical portion on the back of the ignition switch itself. Once you split the column it’s pretty easy to access. You might want to disconnect the battery because the wires on the back are still hot even with the key off. Also if you find melted solder in the lower column cover then you’re sure it’s an ignition switch problem as this is a classic sign of it’s failure.
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