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I’m replacing the clutch on my 94 Accord and the only thing in my way at the moment is the driver side axle nut. After some effort I was able to break the passenger side loose, but the driver side has cost me two breaker bars, a few bent pipes, and several sockets.
Short of buying an impact wrench, do I have any options?
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I’d say it depends on the tools you’ve broken so far. Are we talking Harbor Freight, Craftsman, or pricy tool truck quality tools that you’ve been breaking? What’s the size of these breaker bars and the pipes you’ve been adding to them? An impact usually works, but not every time. You might have played the trump card with breaker bars and better leverage. Personally, I’d want an acetylene torch handy no matter what happens next. Be ready for the possibility that you’re going to damage the threads once you do get it loose. You may be in for a new half shaft depending on how troublesome that nut gets.
Thanks for the reply. The breaker bars are 1/2″ socket width and 24″ long Husky brand from Home Depot – I’ve actually only lost one of those which bent at the socket hinge joint.
Haven’t lost any actual sockets, either, but had several 1/2″ socket extenders snap clean off where the extender meets the actual socket. The extender and 36mm for the axle nut I just picked up at O’Reilly’s, so not sure where those rank on the quality scale.
Initially I used some cheap electrical conduit pipe for a cheater, but that bent so I upgraded to a 1/4″ thick 24″ long solid steel pipe and that has been solid. I hit the nut with some PB Blaster and a propane torch. That helped break loose the passenger side nut, but no dice on the driver’s side.
I don’t suppose I could leave the driver side be? The tranny is on the passenger side and I’ve got that drivershaft out so the only thing preventing me from pulling the transmission at this point is that other axle.
Try the socket one more time without any extensions between it and the next ratchet or breaker bar. Those extensions flex out and absorb all the torque you’re trying to put to the socket and then, of course, they break.
You probably could fenagle the transmission out while leaving the axle in, but you’re asking for trouble trying to put it back together. Then if you find you have to try and work that axle out anyway, there’s nothing left to keep the hub from turning freely.
This reminds me of the crank pulley bolt that I needed more than my weight on a one meter breaker bar. And that bolt was only 19 mm I think.
Get yourself a breaker bar of 3/4″ drive and a meter long. With a good fitting socket.
There’s not too many opportunities to use such a big breaker, but if you’re doing your own clutch, you must be a toolie anyway.
I’s stay away from torches is this location.
God rest the soul of another 1/2″ breaker bar. Socket twisted clean off the end. Off to Harbor Freight to pick up a 3/4″ breaker…at least they’re having a big holiday sale at the moment.
If this nut does turn out to be “unbreakable” what sort of recourse do I have for removing it? Would it be possible to drill it off without damaging the threading?
This probably depends on the car, it works on my car, but what you do is free the ball joint and if necessary the tie rod and sway bar, then you can pry the axle out of the transmission. Wire the inner end of the axle out of the way while doing the clutch work. Reassembly amounts to inserting the axle and giving a shove on the rotor to seat it.
I’m fond of the “Go Big or Go Home” advice. Like Archimedes’ lever to move the world.
I’ve not really worked out the vectors or force diagrams in any detail, but when using very high torque tools, it is good to keep the breaker bar hinge as close to the nut as possible. Longer and longer extensions fitted between the socket and breaker’s hinge cause sideways force rather than torque.
This sideways force is minimized by having a support under the extensions near the hinge.
Would be easier to show pictures rather than write about it, but hopefully I’ve been clear enough in words.
barneyb: great suggestion. I think you might have saved my project.
I got a 3/4″ breaker bar. In addition to my cheater pole I probably had 1.5m of leverage, but not even that broke the nut. So I said screw it and decided to pull the driveshafts anyway.
I have all the room I need on the passenger side (where the traanny is) since that nut gave way. By popping the ball joint I had enough room to pull the driver side shaft and get off the intermediate shaft. Now I think I can finally drop this transmission and replace my clutch.
Feel a bit silly after spending so much time and effort on that little bastard of a nut, but all’s well that ends well I suppose. Thanks for the help everyone!
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