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After it dies, it wont start until the engine is cold which is 4-6 hours.
Repair history in last 30 days to cut down the response space.
1. new EGR valve which actually fixed a problem stalling at 0-5 mph.
2. new oxygen sensor.
3. new starter.
4. cleaned throttle body and checked throttle position sensor which is good.
5. new map sensor.
6. new plugs, wires, rotor cap.
7. new fuel pump.
8. new fuel filter.
9. installed new oil sending unit to fix old one’s bad oil leak, and broke cover, oil light stays on all the time. read some where that when sensor thinks there is no oil pressure, it also shuts down the fuel supply. If that were related to this 70mph stall, I would think that would immediately stop the fuel supply when you tried to start the car., but the car has improved in steady idle and running in general with above component replacements.OTHER POSSIBLE FIXES TO THE PROBLEM
1. crankshaft position sensor
2. cam sensor.
3. fuel regulator sensor
4. ignition coil
5. ECM Computer.
6. wire harnessMy guess is that it’s the ignition coil, because the car just dies after 15-20 minutes of 45-70 mph use when the heat is hot enough to affect the coil bad coil. More so, the car will not start until the engines completely cold.
Have the ignition coil on the way from rock auto.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
I am running out of money to replace anything else.
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Replies
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I would test the crank sensor.
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/chrysler/2.7L-3.3L-3.5L-3.8L/how-to-test-the-crank-sensor-1
what would make the car die silently when I am going 70 mph in the first place ?
no bad engine noise when it happens.
This has stranded me 4 times in the last two weeks, but after it cools down over night it would immediately start the first attempt, until today, couldn’t start it, had to tow it home. That’s why I thought it might be the coil, when engine heats up, it expands the assumed compromised coil.
If that were the case, no spark, would the car die silently like this one is ?
When the car cooled down over night, I assumed the coils wires contracted back to tolerable limits, and that’s why it would start the first time in the morning, until today.
What are the odds that it could be the computer ?
Thank You for your help, I enjoy watching your videos, There are some nuts out there doing car videos.
Could you please answer each individual question, I am a barnyard mechanic, but fearless to tackle anything, which is not necessarily good……
Oh, is that wire piercing tool necessary crank sensor test, is there a substitute I might use ?
Thanks Again Eric.
I think you’re on the right track. I had a 97 BMW that would randomly die (but never going that fast, usually when I was going slower). It was kinda random and if you waited around it would start back up. Finally the computer tripped a camshaft position sensor. Replaced that and it fixed the problem.
I believe you need a scope to accurate test cam/crank sensors. I would suggest visual inspection of wiring harness, see if it’s contacting anything hot, wiggle some harness around while car is running to see if it dies. Perhaps while taking caution, tap the crank sensor/cam sensor while car is running to see if that causes the car to act up.
[quote=”leeb8210″ post=183383]what would make the car die silently when I am going 70 mph in the first place ?
no bad engine noise when it happens.
This has stranded me 4 times in the last two weeks, but after it cools down over night it would immediately start the first attempt, until today, couldn’t start it, had to tow it home. That’s why I thought it might be the coil, when engine heats up, it expands the assumed compromised coil.
If that were the case, no spark, would the car die silently like this one is ?
When the car cooled down over night, I assumed the coils wires contracted back to tolerable limits, and that’s why it would start the first time in the morning, until today.
What are the odds that it could be the computer ?
Thank You for your help, I enjoy watching your videos, There are some nuts out there doing car videos.
Could you please answer each individual question, I am a barnyard mechanic, but fearless to tackle anything, which is not necessarily good……
Oh, is that wire piercing tool necessary crank sensor test, is there a substitute I might use ?
Thanks Again Eric.[/quote]
What usually happens is something electronic is heating up and failing. If no spark is happening
Your engine will just quit silently as it needs spark to ignite the fuel. the most common failure is
the crank or cam sensor. That’s why we need to determine if spark is lost at the time of the engine
shutting off. As for the wire piercing tool your you could use a T pin or a pin to back probe the connector.
For now I would back burner the computer for now.Hi Eric,
Since last email, I changed the broken oil sending unit, swapped the Auto Shutdown Switch, and replaced the ignition coil.
I had a crank sensor shipped, but could not find it where 90% of the literature says it is for this particular vehicle..
Then I read that it was in the distributor and integrated with the CAM sensor.
If it tests good, what would be the next thing you would look at ?
I can’t not really drive it at high speeds, in fear of it breaking down and getting towed again.
It starts right up, so it’s really not “crank, no start”, unless it dies at a high speed, then it is CNS, unless the above parts had any impact.
Thanks,
LeeThis was fun at first, but not any more…….
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