- This topic has 5 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 11 years, 9 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
I have a ’93 Mercury Cougar XR7. My battery is great, alternator is great, wires have been checked from bumper to bumper, fuses relays etc…I have had the batt, the alt, bat cables, grounds all checked (replaced/fixed when needed) Voltages have been checked, and the battery and alt has been load tested. When I am in drive, sometimes when I come to a stop my alternator chirps real loud, and my oil pressure gauge drags down in a crazy fashion (this if course causes check gauges to turn on for a moment), and it bottoms out at like 500 rpm or something, then goes back to normal. It has stalled from this a few times, but it’s rare. My milage, speedometer (its not the sensor) and cruise control all don’t work. I was told it could perhaps be the body control module. I don’t think my mechanic is the Savviest at electrical stuff (he’s a great dude and does his best)But he has done what he can and can only suspect a computer. I guess no codes have been pulled, and I don’t have any engine lights or anything on. Your help is greatly appreciated.
My car is in pretty damn good condition. should only be around 66k on the engine, and it hasn’t seen a lot of weather until i started driving it at 50k. I feel like it’s a hoopty because I haven’t known how fast I was going for months now, and my car stuttering and/or stalling at stop signs or lights is a buzz kill lol.
-
Replies
-
You don’t have an alternator problem. You have a v belt problem. The belt that turn the oil pump, ac (optional) , alternator and water pump. You might have a bearing problem in one of there wheel. You need to see you engine running to locate the wheel that not turn correctly.
Some engine information would be helpful. However, the advise that Plasmide 56 gave, is good advise, but keep in mind that anything from bad or lack of body grounds to loose motor mount bolts and everything in between could be a potiential problem causing this.
also keep in mind that everything on a vehicle can be tested, I personally believe in the diagnostic approach. let the evidence dictate the repair.it will keep you from throwing parts at somthing that may not need to be replaced.
also post what test equipment you have and we will be glad to help you locate your problem. If You don’t have any test equipment, you will be money and time ahead to locate someone versed in Automotive electrical, electronic diagnosis with the proper equipment, i/e dvom, lab scope etc., to make a diagnosis for you.
Good luck and keep postingBoth of your answers are greatly appreciated!
I don’t have time for much of a response right now, but I will get back to you guys with as much information as I can real soon. My engine is a 3.8L V6. I don’t have any equipment myself. My mechanic has a dvom and what not. My mechanic has considered the engine mounts to be a bad ground, so he checked that. Personally I should probably just study wiring diagrams myself and learn how to read them. Find the common denominator in milage, speed, cruise control, etc…Who knows, maybe the problems I have are unrelated to each other but I doubt it. I will talk with my mechanic about a possible bearing problem on my drivebelt pulleys I suppose. Thanks!
I am trying to learn all I can in the time I have, and when I don’t know something awesome people like you help me out, and hopefully I’ll be able to help others too. Oh wait, I already have! I’ve given people jumps and stuff and I teach them how to do it properly, well at least better than average. I have heard different approaches as far as turning on the blower, or headlights and stuff idk…
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.