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I am trying to get my sons car going. Bare with me while I explain everything. We bought it from someone after the cam twisted off the camshaft. I replaced the cam shaft and cam sprocket. (Thanks to ETCG videos. Tried to start it and it would not start. I have owned a few accords and know all the problems they have. I checked the main relay and it was fine so I replaced the fuel pump and it fired up. Now the only issue was it had a very rough idle which turned out to be a bent valve and so we decided to replace the engine. So as it sat in the drive we would still start it to move it a round. Well one day it would not start at all. I couldn’t hear the fuel pump any longer and there was no fuel squirting out at the fuel rail. So I just thought the fuel pump went bad again.
Fast forward and the new engine is in. I changed the fuel pump and ready to start it up. The new fuel pump was not turning on. Checked the relay and the fuel pump would only turn on when I ran a separate ground to the relay ground. I fixed that by a loose ground at the water pump. So now the fuel pump turns on. So I crank and crank and it will not start. So here is everything I know.
1. When I turn the key on the check engine light comes on for about 2 seconds and you hear the pump prime and the CEL light goes out and the pump shuts off.
2. The starter turns the engine turns over just fine.
3. I know I have spark. I attached an inductive timing light to each plug wire and the timing light flashes strong each rotation.
4. I know I have fuel pressure. Hooked up a Fuel pressure gauage to the fuel rail and I have 40 PSI.
5. The plugs are wet when I remove them after cranking after a few trys.
6. I did a compression test and my book says 178 is normal and 153 is min. All cylinders tested in upper 170’s.
7. I have checked all fuses.
8. New NGK plugs and new NGK wires. New cap and rotor. These parts were on old engine and did work when it started.
So it seems to me I am having the same problem I had before I switched the engines. Since I am using the same intake and all the same wiring I have transferred over the same no start issue. I am thinking ECU?
I did re solder the relay . I even tried another relay that I soldered and it made no difference.
I see the check engine light come on for a few seconds and I hear the pump. I have Fuel,spark and Air. Even when I unplugged the Distributor to check compression the ECU tripped a 15 code which tells me the ECU is working correct? Once I pull the radio ECU reset fuse and clear the code the check engine light comes on solid. Is that normal? I have checked all sites and tried everything I can figure to try. Any help would be appreciated.Thank you,
John Hershey
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Is the replacement motor new , rebuilt or used ? if used did it come out of a running car and did you hear it run before pulling it ? if a used motor and was not ” ran ” prior to pulling I would start by checking the timing as it sounds as if you have spark , compression and fuel
I bought 2 used engines. I did not hear them run. I installed all new parts and gaskets. I installed a new clutch. I replaced the front and rear crank seals. New oil pan seal. I replaced the spark plug seals under the cam lobes. I went thru this engine. I didnt rebuild it and I will explain why. So both engines I got were JDM engines. They looked brand new inside.
So my cars original engine was a F22A1. The one engine is a F23A6 JDM engine. The second engine is a F22B and both are SOHC engines. I wanted to use the F22B but my intake would not match up and I didnt want to change my wiring and ECU so I used the Block from the F22B and I put the head from the F22A6 and used all my wiring and ECU and everything matched up perfect.
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