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Here’s a short vid from Briansmobile1 about such an issue. I had a conversation via Youtube comments, and he found that depending on the RPM’s that were going on when the belt broke, he would often try a new belt first, because in his experience, the belts would often break on acceleration, and not at high RPM’s, and alot of the time, the belt alone would fix the problem, because unless the belt broke while the engine was running at high RPM’s, he had alot of success with just swapping the belt, and not having to pull the head. He’s a great guy, and tries to save his customers money.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UpQDYqYHT8c
You could try just doing the belt first, and seeing it it fixes the problem is my point. It MAY save you alot of time/work.
Good luck man.
If the t/belt broke while driving I would assume valves got bent. once you verify the t/belt condition ( crank engine over by hand while watching dizzy and look in the oil fill hole see if the rockers move ) you can put on a new belt and then do a leak down test and compression test. see what happens. if the bottom end of the motor is in good shape the I would rebuild the top end. keep us posted on you findings.
sorry man there is no hope if it snapped they have interference engines it sounds to me like it snapped you might get away with putting a new head on it just make sure you didnt put a good size ding in the piston you could get that head redone but a junk yard might be cheaper sorry man let us know how it goes
I know a few people with snap CB TB and they just replaced the belts and all is good. Make sure compression test after. I know one didn’t do so hot. He got a new head and lost 4 days and all is good. If you were going at freeway speed, get a new engine, almost no hope on that. You just have to keep a record of the maintenance, especially with the timing belts. It’s recommended at 90K and this already allow you the time in traffic. The previous owner for my car did it at 107k miles and old belts was still in good condition. When you do the valve cover gasket, or adjust valves, take a look at the belt condition while you are at it.
Well I figured at $18 for a belt that sounds a lot better than a new car. However I priced some junk yard heads and found them in the $150 range so that’s not a big problem.
I can’t remember did Eric do a video on timing belts for this car?
The belt broke at about 65MPH, so…2500 RPM-ish? I can’t remember how this car is geared.
Edit: Found on another site that 2900 to 3000 RPM is normal for 65MPH on this car.
Quoted From Beefy:
Here’s a short vid from Briansmobile1 about such an issue. I had a conversation via Youtube comments, and he found that depending on the RPM’s that were going on when the belt broke, he would often try a new belt first, because in his experience, the belts would often break on acceleration, and not at high RPM’s, and alot of the time, the belt alone would fix the problem, because unless the belt broke while the engine was running at high RPM’s, he had alot of success with just swapping the belt, and not having to pull the head. He’s a great guy, and tries to save his customers money.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UpQDYqYHT8c
You could try just doing the belt first, and seeing it it fixes the problem is my point. It MAY save you alot of time/work.
Good luck man.
Quoted From pcmdjason:
Well I figured at $18 for a belt that sounds a lot better than a new car. However I priced some junk yard heads and found them in the $150 range so that’s not a bit problem.
I can’t remember did Eric do a video on timing belts for this car?
Yes, Eric has great video for 1990-2002 Accords that can be purchased for about $11 on this website. It’s well worth the money.
Good news. Was talking to a Honda mechanic, and he said, he has yet to have a customer with a bent valve when their timing belt broke. If you where running mods that gave you high compression, then you would most likely bend a valve. Keep us posted.
Quoted From cb7ftw:
Good news. Was talking to a Honda mechanic, and he said, he has yet to have a customer with a bent valve when their timing belt broke. If you where running mods that gave you high compression, then you would most likely bend a valve. Keep us posted.
I remember Eric mentioning that Honda engines are NOT the interference type. If this is the case then just doing the belt should fix your problem.
I don’t know why but I thought for sure Honda’s were an interference engine. Maybe the dealers were trying to scare people into doing the TB service.
Quoted From johnzcarz:
I remember Eric mentioning that Honda engines are NOT the interference type. If this is the case then just doing the belt should fix your problem.
I don’t know why but I thought for sure Honda’s were an interference engine. Maybe the dealers were trying to scare people into doing the TB service.
I agree, I was pretty certain the Honda motors as well as most newer engines were interference. I hope this is the case for you Jason (not being interference) as the $18 timing belt will be a quick and dirty fix.
Good luck.
i would recommend while your in there change the water pump and tensioner also depending on the condition of the acc belts i would do them too i mean your in there already keep us up on the situation good luck man stay dirty
buy the kit with the belt, tensioner and water pump. I just did a timing belt on a 01 civic (thanks for the help everyone) and its well worth it to do these. The time to get down to the belt and its friends i a lot more than it takes to swap them. plus you won’t be taking it all apart in 20k to do the water pump.
I think Honda is a mix of interference and non-interference engines, I think it depends on year / model of the engine… though I could be wrong, I have been known to talk out of my you know what…
Another thing I learned recently, by recently I mean yesterday, watch the video on bleeding the cooling system and do it thoroughly.. I had only a little bit of air in the civic’s cooling system and it was causing idle problems. Once I got the cooling system bleed, it is now running smooth.
Don’t assume the valves are bent (personally I don’t think they are) and even if they are you don’t need to replace the entire cylinder head just the bent valves, they’re only about $15 each after all, the labor to get to them however is a little more work but if you’re willing to put in the time you should be fine. That said when I’m confronted with this situation I always put a belt and water pump on and then try and start the engine, if it runs fun all is well withe the world and I move on. If it doesn’t run and you find a loss of compression due to bent valves don’t fret because you were going to have to replace the broken belt anyway, you’re just a little ahead of the game at that point.
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