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Hey all,
So it all started when I first bought the car, and noticed the speedometer wasn’t working all the time, but with a few good taps on the dash the needle would jump to the correct location. Everything else worked fine.
The speedometer lost connection during driving, and “fell” down to 130mph then re connected and was back at “0”, but on the opposite side of the needle stopper. So I took the instrument cluster out to move the needle back around and when I assembled it I noticed I had to sets of screws.for the backing of the IC. Brass and metal screws. I put them back in what I thought was correct, but now my gas gauge reads “F” and my temp gauge is cold on startup then runs to hot after a few seconds.
Anyone know which screws belong where ? I’ve tried looking @ other pics of IC and tried.different.ways of placing them. Does this even.matter? I’m guessing so, otherwise the Honda engineers wouldn’t have done it. Tried all grounds brass screws and all positive brass screws. Stumped. I have a wiring diagram from Haynes.
Thanks for any insight.
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Pulled the instrument cluster, tested the fuel gauge and temp gauge using a Power Probe. Both needles move to “F” or “H” when power is supplied to the “+” side and ground clip is attached to the 3rd screw labeled “F” for fuel or “T” for temp. When ground clip is attached to the “-” screw and power supplied at the “+” no needle movement happens.
Also testing the fuel gauge at the sending unit. 11.3 volts is showing on the multimeter. From research ive done its only suppose to be @ 5-8 volts.
is this what we are looking at?
Yes, 2:21 has a clear show of the three screws on the back of the temp and fuel gauges.
I am clueless again, and believe I might have shorted something. Or have a ground issue somewhere.
Fuses good.
as far as I can tell the four screws all seem the same.
did you have it plugged in when working on it? I believe
there a plug connection to it.it should only go one way.
The screws just hold the clusters in place.I had it plugged in when I was connecting the hazard switch, but I accidentally hooked it into the clock pig tail, when the car turned “ON” without the key in the ignition. It was for a few seconds before I realized I was in the wrong pig tail. Then I connected it to the hazard switch, and tested all my lights and things. I think thats when things got messed up…
I believe the screws help with holding the gauge in place, but also plays in continuity. I say that because the backing has all those highways of electricity going through them.
Im going to see if I can pull another gauge from the JY or order one online.
i appreciate the help college man.
For the future,
I was able to located a instrument cluster that had been pulled off a working Honda. $80 dollars later the new instrument cluster is able to show correct reading on fuel gauge and temp gauge.
Im sure this was caused by a short that I had done.
also, this website had great insight on why a fuel gauge might read empty or full. And some things that could help you to rule out suspicions.
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