92 acura vigor rack and pinion

you can check out your local libery a lot of them have michell on demand for free on there computers it will tell you step by step on how to do it… you can also check out a haynes manual not as good but will help you… or you can get a dealer sevcice manual off of ebay or sign up for alldatadiy… thats where you can get the step by steps… I would fist try your libery and see what they have… all it would cost you is some copys… but its not to tuff.. just mostly akwaerd to do and have to get deep uner leath it…
also an FYI of your doing a rack replacement… suck up what you can first from the power steering pump… will save you more of a mess later

it looks prity easy from what I was reading… is only like 20 steps… I would disconnect the battory it was talking about disarming the airbag system and reprograming the anti thief system… I dont know what that means… but looks like all you have to do is remove the tie rods and ball joints and cover then remove the 8mm line and steering colum.. and you good

[quote=”Cragelarson83″ post=172864]Since I’m gonna do the rack on it is there any other parts that i might as well replace while I’m in there.[/quote]
take a look at how the power stering lines are?
and maybe the power stering pump.. but its not comman that they fail… but for a 92 the lines might not be that good… but you will have to check… when ever taking out pipe lines always use a flare wrench so you dont strip them… might also need to pickup some flare crows feet…deponding if you need them… also cotten pins again

inless you want to do a heater core flush your hose will be right there… but its up to you

I just completed replacing a steering rack on my 1989 Accord, so kinda similar.

Here are the things that were “key” issues.

1. Get a hold of the service manual for that car to see how much “stuff” needed to be removed in order to get the rack out. I had to drop a frame beam, the exhaust A-Pipe and both rods from the stick shift to MT. Then the secret “trick” was doing something Eric cautioned against – turning the wheel all of the way to the left so that the inner tie-rod cleared other frame supports.

2. Use line wrenches (flare nut wrench) on the hydraulic lines, use lots of penetrating oil ( I used PB Blaster) on the fittings! Oh and be Patient! You do not wanna break those tiny lines! I sprayed them for a couple of days and tapped on them before trying to break them free, but mine were pretty rusted.

3. Make sure you get enough new PS Fluid. (find specs & capacity) I bought a 6 pack off eBay and used 5 of them. I let the system drain for a day before trying to get the rack out, still there was some residual leakage, so I needed mop up supplies.

4. While you are on the front end looks like you have checked most things. Are the struts in good shape? Last year I did UCAs, stabilizer links, struts and tie rod ends. The crux on that axle job is likely if the bolt comes free from the fork, LCA juncture. It worked nicely in Eric’s videos, but otherwise one is taking apart & reassembling a new axle to get it in place or a new LCA, etc.

5. Don’t be fooled – getting that steering wheel back on straight, is probably going to be more like Eric’s venture (several tries). It took several test drives, and an extra tube of perseverance, before I got everything aligned.

6. Be prepared. What Eric says about ‘patience’ and a steering rack, is true. Take you time, take breaks, think smart and don’t let it beat you! I know, I took several breaks (some long) when the frustration of laying on the ground struggling with rusty bolts and low clearances got to be too much.

I agree with Rob781 – check the lines carefully. Especially the pressure line from the PS pump to the rack. I had to replace that a few years ago.

There are some “poor man’s alignment” videos using a string, that I employed to get the wheels “close.” Didn’t want to be driving around to the alignment shop too out of kilter. So that got me close.

Good luck!