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First, when dealing with performance issues like this, check the basics. Battery cables and terminals (clean and tight). Check tune-up items (spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor (if equipped), etc. Don’t overlook mechanical reasons (filters, hoses, vacuum leaks, engine health and condition, timing belt/chain, etc.)
You may find some more help here: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues
TIMING BELT WAS CHANGED AT 400,000. CHANGED THE ROTOR, SPARK PLUGS & WIRES LAST YEAR. HAVE TWO HIGH FLOW AIR INTAKE THAT I INTERCHANGE AND CLEAN. THE CAR RUNS GOOD! THE ONLY PROBLEM IS SOMETIMES THE RPM BECOMES ERRATIC AND AFTER I PRESS ON THE GAS PEDAL FOR FEW SECONDS EVERYTHING IS FINE. JUST PUT IN BG44K TO CLEAN THE INJECTORS. THIS PROBLEM DOES NOT HAPPEN EVERYDAY. PROBABLY ONCE OR TWICE A MONTH. THINKING OF CLEANING THE THROTTLE BODY AND ANY ASSOCIATED PARTS.
Cleaning the throttle could help, but more likely is dirty MAF (if equipped), or the MAP sensor, TPS, or IACV.
CLEANED THE THROTTLE BODY 2 DAYS AGO WITH “CRC THROTTLE BODY & AIR-INTAKE CLEANER”. OPENED THE VALVE AND SPRAYED THE CLEANER AND WIPED IT WITH A CLEAN CLOTHE. STARTED THE ENGINE AND WAS OK. DID NOT USE THE CAR AFTER CLEANING THE THROTTLE BODY. STARTED THE CAR TODAY (2 DAYS AFTER CLEANING) AND AFTER LESS THAN A MILE THE CAR’S IDLE STARTS TO ACT UP (GOES UP & DOWN) UNTIL THE CAR STALLS. TOOK SEVERAL MINUTES TO RESTART THE CAR AGAIN WITHOUT THE CAR STALLING. WAS ABLE TO GO BACK HOME UNTIL THE PROBLEM STARTS AGAIN. HAVE A HARD TIME STARTING THE CAR AGAIN. SOMETIMES A WHITE SMOKE COMES OUT OF MY HIGH FLOW AIR FILTER. I KNOW THIS WAS THE CAUSE OF MY THROTTLE CLEANING. THE CAR RUNS GOOD BEFORE I CLEANED THE THROTTLE BODY. DON’T HAVE ANY IDEA HOW TO SOLVE THIS PROBLEM. DON’T WANT TO DO ANYTHING THAT WILL MAKE IT WORST.
I’VE WATCH THE VIDEO. CLEANED THE IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE WITH THE THROTTLE BODY CLEANER UNTIL 99% OF THE CARBON ARE REMOVED. BLEW COMPRESSED AIR FROM MY AIR COMPRESSOR UNTIL DRY. CHECKED THE FAST IDLE VALVE AND IT WAS ALL THE WAY DOWN. CHECKED FOR ANY LOOSE HOSES AND EVERYTHING CHECK OUT. THE ONLY THING I NOTICE IS WHEN THE ENGINE IS COLD, EVERYTHING IS FINE UNTIL IT WARMED UP AND THE IDLE STARTS TO GO UP AND DOWN UNTIL THE ENGINE STALLS. TAPPING ON THE IACV DURING ERRATIC IDLE DID NOT DO A THING. THE ENGINE STILL STALLS. WAITED FOR HALF AN HOUR AND TRIED TO START THE ENGINE WITH THE SAME RESULT.
As it states in this article, if someone has attempted to adjust the idle with the idle screw on the throttle body, it can cause issues similar to what you describe. Also, the cooling system should be checked for any air.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-idle-problems
Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.
I agree with Eric, I have a 94 Prelude and a mechanic messed with my idle screw and the idle became crazy, when I let go of the gas pedal the idle would dip then come back up really quickly, also the engine would rev up and down until eventually it would stall, I took it in to someone else and he adjusted my base idle a bit, no longer revs up and down and idle is where it should be at operating temp.
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