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Topic
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Hello everyone! I hope to make this a work log of sorts. I will be picking up where I left off at another forum. It was a computer forum that I have been part of for some time. I wasn’t getting bad info there or anything. I just figured that a vehicle mod/repair forum would be a better place for me to get information. Enough about that.
My 91 Honda Civic Si is my daily driver. I have been working on this car along and along to keep it up and running. No modifications at this time. Just a stock engine and body. I am currently working with someone on paint and body. I do the work on the weekends and he lets me use with shop and equipment.
INFO
~165,000 miles
Weak rings (low compression on cylinders 2&4)
New water pump and timing belt (a few months back)
New fuel pump and filter (few months back)
New head seals (few months ago)
Timing Belt and Tensioner changed (9/16/2012
New Altinator and Battery (11/10/13)—————————————————————————————
Timing Belt Problem
[spoiler]**THE PROBLEM**
The most recent issue is a smoking belt. I noticed a new noise, I say new because I am always listening for a different/new one, that sounded like a belt squealing. No biggie I figured. Once I got home I was going to inspect and tighten or change the belt if needed. I was sitting at a red light and noticed some smoke and smell. Decided to pull off at a gas station. Upon inspection I saw a bit of smoke coming from behind the timing belt cover (or so it appeared). It seemed that all the pulley’s were spinning freely and not locking up. The other belts also looked fine; no smoke or worn spots.PROGRESS
I decided not to chance the belt breaking and have parked it at the shop that I mentioned above. We are going to pull the timing belt cover this weekend and have a look. Hoping that the timing has just jumped and that is all.QUESTION
Since I just replaced the water pump I am figuring that that should be fine. I’ll check for leaks and such. Depending on the belt I will replace it. What are some other things that I should watch out for/replace while I have that torn down?[/spoiler]
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The procedure for idle adjustment is basically let it warm up, disconnect the IAC, and adjust the idle to 700rpm. It’s rare that this is done correctly. If someone did the adjustment incorrectly before you, that wouldn’t be uncommon.
If you have worn engine mechanicals, you may be fighting a loosing battle with the idle. 4 cylinder engines run rough by design. Any imbalance can make that even worse. Uneven compression can really exaggerate that.
I forgot to comment on the clutch stuff, sorry. You don’t need a performance clutch. In fact, if you use one, it’s likely you’ll damage the already weak clutch hydraulics. For Hondas I like to use Daikin or Sachs. Daikin is the OE supplier for Honda BTW.
Looking from Honda manual idle adjustment should be with no load and IAC disconnected 625+-50rpm. Then with IAC connected no load ECU will keep it at 750+-50rpm (USA) or 800+-50rpm (Canada).
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