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Hello everyone! I hope to make this a work log of sorts. I will be picking up where I left off at another forum. It was a computer forum that I have been part of for some time. I wasn’t getting bad info there or anything. I just figured that a vehicle mod/repair forum would be a better place for me to get information. Enough about that.
My 91 Honda Civic Si is my daily driver. I have been working on this car along and along to keep it up and running. No modifications at this time. Just a stock engine and body. I am currently working with someone on paint and body. I do the work on the weekends and he lets me use with shop and equipment.
INFO
~165,000 miles
Weak rings (low compression on cylinders 2&4)
New water pump and timing belt (a few months back)
New fuel pump and filter (few months back)
New head seals (few months ago)
Timing Belt and Tensioner changed (9/16/2012
New Altinator and Battery (11/10/13)—————————————————————————————
Timing Belt Problem
[spoiler]**THE PROBLEM**
The most recent issue is a smoking belt. I noticed a new noise, I say new because I am always listening for a different/new one, that sounded like a belt squealing. No biggie I figured. Once I got home I was going to inspect and tighten or change the belt if needed. I was sitting at a red light and noticed some smoke and smell. Decided to pull off at a gas station. Upon inspection I saw a bit of smoke coming from behind the timing belt cover (or so it appeared). It seemed that all the pulley’s were spinning freely and not locking up. The other belts also looked fine; no smoke or worn spots.PROGRESS
I decided not to chance the belt breaking and have parked it at the shop that I mentioned above. We are going to pull the timing belt cover this weekend and have a look. Hoping that the timing has just jumped and that is all.QUESTION
Since I just replaced the water pump I am figuring that that should be fine. I’ll check for leaks and such. Depending on the belt I will replace it. What are some other things that I should watch out for/replace while I have that torn down?[/spoiler]
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[quote=”Tomh” post=67853]Better change your sig . .. . it is no longer in primer! Looking GOOD!
Did you ever get that idle issue sorted out?[/quote]
It has started to happen less often. I really have just accepted it as something that is going to happen since I draw so much on the alternator with the sound system. It will still do it with the A/C on but I have figured that that was just the strain that the compressor puts on the engine when it kicks on.
So a new issue has appeared. I’ll start with what I have done to this point and what prompted me to do this.
A few weeks ago I came out to crank up my car, it had been cold the night before, and the battery was dead. The batter was a few years old so I replaced the battery. After driving the car for a day or so the new battery was dead. I checked out the battery and found that it was outputting ~16V. I then replaced the alternator. When taking the car for a test drive the battery light came on. The battery light would only come on once I had pressed the clutch in and the car had fallen below 1K RPM. If I pressed the brakes or turned on the headlights then the light would turn off. I had the alternator tested on the vehicle twice and it tested good both times. The battery tested good as well. I checked the cabling and everything seems to be good. Not frayed, melted or anything of the sort. Took the alternator off and had it tested, it tested good. The battery was being charged to ~13V. I have replaced the alternator and the same symptoms are occurring.
I watched the video that Eric posted about diagnosing a bad alternator. The only thing that I have not tested from that video is making sure that the ground isn’t charged. I am at a complete loss as where to go from here. I did hear Eric mention testing the ECU to see if it would be causing the alternator to overcharge; not sure if that applies in my case.
To summarize my question is:
How do I figure out why the battery light is coming on?
Please feel free to ask me any questions you want. Thanks for any response ahead of time.
So a new issue has appeared. I’ll start with what I have done to this point and what prompted me to do this.
A few weeks ago I came out to crank up my car, it had been cold the night before, and the battery was dead. The batter was a few years old so I replaced the battery. After driving the car for a day or so the new battery was dead. I checked out the battery and found that it was outputting ~16V. I then replaced the alternator. When taking the car for a test drive the battery light came on. The battery light would only come on once I had pressed the clutch in and the car had fallen below 1K RPM. If I pressed the brakes or turned on the headlights then the light would turn off. I had the alternator tested on the vehicle twice and it tested good both times. The battery tested good as well. I checked the cabling and everything seems to be good. Not frayed, melted or anything of the sort. Took the alternator off and had it tested, it tested good. The battery was being charged to ~13V. I have replaced the alternator and the same symptoms are occurring.
I watched the video that Eric posted about diagnosing a bad alternator. The only thing that I have not tested from that video is making sure that the ground isn’t charged. I am at a complete loss as where to go from here. I did hear Eric mention testing the ECU to see if it would be causing the alternator to overcharge; not sure if that applies in my case.
To summarize my question is:
How do I figure out why the battery light is coming on?
Please feel free to ask me any questions you want. Thanks for any response ahead of time.
Have you checked to make sure the ELD (Electric Load Detector) is working? What I have seen from others (I have yet to work on a Honda’s ELD) is if the ELD is messing up it can cause some really weird charging issues.
Have you checked to make sure the ELD (Electric Load Detector) is working? What I have seen from others (I have yet to work on a Honda’s ELD) is if the ELD is messing up it can cause some really weird charging issues.
This is the testing I have
https://www.dropbox.com/s/10uhoz4rjyb3r3z/Honda%20ELD%20Testing.pdf
Like I said I have never personally troubleshot a ELD system. Someone with better Honda experience might have a better way of testing the ELD circuit.
This is the testing I have
https://www.dropbox.com/s/10uhoz4rjyb3r3z/Honda%20ELD%20Testing.pdf
Like I said I have never personally troubleshot a ELD system. Someone with better Honda experience might have a better way of testing the ELD circuit.
I may have some good news about this issue. I usually see the battery light come on during my drive to work. It did not come on this morning. I’m still not ready to call it fixed yet though. The car has sat for a day and that seems to usually delay the light coming on. I am still seeing the same idling symptoms that I did when the battery light would come on.
- The RPMs drop drastically after ~2K. Like the car had been cut off.
- There is a noticeable change in idle when pressing the brake.
- When the headlights are cut on the car idles up to ~1K.
I will update after my drive home.
I may have some good news about this issue. I usually see the battery light come on during my drive to work. It did not come on this morning. I’m still not ready to call it fixed yet though. The car has sat for a day and that seems to usually delay the light coming on. I am still seeing the same idling symptoms that I did when the battery light would come on.
- The RPMs drop drastically after ~2K. Like the car had been cut off.
- There is a noticeable change in idle when pressing the brake.
- When the headlights are cut on the car idles up to ~1K.
I will update after my drive home.
Took me a while to get home huh? 😛
Well some good news. I exchanged the altinator even though it tested good on the bench. I have not seen any indication that the battery light wants to come on. I am now noticing however that I have an idle issue (seems to be hunting). I have an IACV from a parts Honda that I purchased and am going to try switching it out and see what happens. Going to try cleaning in the intake as well.
Took me a while to get home huh? 😛
Well some good news. I exchanged the altinator even though it tested good on the bench. I have not seen any indication that the battery light wants to come on. I am now noticing however that I have an idle issue (seems to be hunting). I have an IACV from a parts Honda that I purchased and am going to try switching it out and see what happens. Going to try cleaning in the intake as well.
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