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Topic
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Hello everyone! I hope to make this a work log of sorts. I will be picking up where I left off at another forum. It was a computer forum that I have been part of for some time. I wasn’t getting bad info there or anything. I just figured that a vehicle mod/repair forum would be a better place for me to get information. Enough about that.
My 91 Honda Civic Si is my daily driver. I have been working on this car along and along to keep it up and running. No modifications at this time. Just a stock engine and body. I am currently working with someone on paint and body. I do the work on the weekends and he lets me use with shop and equipment.
INFO
~165,000 miles
Weak rings (low compression on cylinders 2&4)
New water pump and timing belt (a few months back)
New fuel pump and filter (few months back)
New head seals (few months ago)
Timing Belt and Tensioner changed (9/16/2012
New Altinator and Battery (11/10/13)—————————————————————————————
Timing Belt Problem
[spoiler]**THE PROBLEM**
The most recent issue is a smoking belt. I noticed a new noise, I say new because I am always listening for a different/new one, that sounded like a belt squealing. No biggie I figured. Once I got home I was going to inspect and tighten or change the belt if needed. I was sitting at a red light and noticed some smoke and smell. Decided to pull off at a gas station. Upon inspection I saw a bit of smoke coming from behind the timing belt cover (or so it appeared). It seemed that all the pulley’s were spinning freely and not locking up. The other belts also looked fine; no smoke or worn spots.PROGRESS
I decided not to chance the belt breaking and have parked it at the shop that I mentioned above. We are going to pull the timing belt cover this weekend and have a look. Hoping that the timing has just jumped and that is all.QUESTION
Since I just replaced the water pump I am figuring that that should be fine. I’ll check for leaks and such. Depending on the belt I will replace it. What are some other things that I should watch out for/replace while I have that torn down?[/spoiler]
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Back on my kick of tracking down the idle issue. It has been about a week ago now. I went to start the car and it sputtered and cut off. Cranked up the second time and idled low for a sec or two then back to normal. I disconnected the amp in question a few posts back. Instead of just removing the remote wire as I did last time I disconnected the power and ground from it. When I drove to work this morning I noticed the issue once or twice. It was a cool morning and the issue usually does not occur as often/at all in cooler weather. I will report back after my drive home this evening.
Back on my kick of tracking down the idle issue. It has been about a week ago now. I went to start the car and it sputtered and cut off. Cranked up the second time and idled low for a sec or two then back to normal. I disconnected the amp in question a few posts back. Instead of just removing the remote wire as I did last time I disconnected the power and ground from it. When I drove to work this morning I noticed the issue once or twice. It was a cool morning and the issue usually does not occur as often/at all in cooler weather. I will report back after my drive home this evening.
Much of the same on the idle issue. It is worse when the amp is hooked up. This makes me lean towards a voltage issue. The wires and plugs are new and I don’t see any outright signs of ware. I do notice that the headlights will pull on the engine pretty hard.
Any suggestions as to what the problem may be?
Much of the same on the idle issue. It is worse when the amp is hooked up. This makes me lean towards a voltage issue. The wires and plugs are new and I don’t see any outright signs of ware. I do notice that the headlights will pull on the engine pretty hard.
Any suggestions as to what the problem may be?
Have you tried checking your voltage at the battery with everything turned on, or getting the alternator output tested? I know most parts stores in my area have spin testers and if you bring it in to them they will test it for free. It will give you a clear and certain readout of exactly how much power this alternator can produce and will either eliminate it or condemn it. It would also be worthwhile to run voltage drop tests not only from the alternator to the battery but on the power and ground sides of the battery cables as well.
Have you tried checking your voltage at the battery with everything turned on, or getting the alternator output tested? I know most parts stores in my area have spin testers and if you bring it in to them they will test it for free. It will give you a clear and certain readout of exactly how much power this alternator can produce and will either eliminate it or condemn it. It would also be worthwhile to run voltage drop tests not only from the alternator to the battery but on the power and ground sides of the battery cables as well.
I wrote this thread just for problems like this.
I wrote this thread just for problems like this.
I know it has been a long time since my last post but I have something that I think is worth showing. i’ll let the picture speak for itself. 😉
[IMG]http://i42.tinypic.com/30rn1j8.jpg[/IMG]
I know it has been a long time since my last post but I have something that I think is worth showing. i’ll let the picture speak for itself. 😉
[IMG]http://i42.tinypic.com/30rn1j8.jpg[/IMG]
Better change your sig . .. . it is no longer in primer! Looking GOOD!
Did you ever get that idle issue sorted out?
Better change your sig . .. . it is no longer in primer! Looking GOOD!
Did you ever get that idle issue sorted out?
[quote=”Tomh” post=67853]Better change your sig . .. . it is no longer in primer! Looking GOOD!
Did you ever get that idle issue sorted out?[/quote]
It has started to happen less often. I really have just accepted it as something that is going to happen since I draw so much on the alternator with the sound system. It will still do it with the A/C on but I have figured that that was just the strain that the compressor puts on the engine when it kicks on.
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