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Hello everyone! I hope to make this a work log of sorts. I will be picking up where I left off at another forum. It was a computer forum that I have been part of for some time. I wasn’t getting bad info there or anything. I just figured that a vehicle mod/repair forum would be a better place for me to get information. Enough about that.
My 91 Honda Civic Si is my daily driver. I have been working on this car along and along to keep it up and running. No modifications at this time. Just a stock engine and body. I am currently working with someone on paint and body. I do the work on the weekends and he lets me use with shop and equipment.
INFO
~165,000 miles
Weak rings (low compression on cylinders 2&4)
New water pump and timing belt (a few months back)
New fuel pump and filter (few months back)
New head seals (few months ago)
Timing Belt and Tensioner changed (9/16/2012
New Altinator and Battery (11/10/13)—————————————————————————————
Timing Belt Problem
[spoiler]**THE PROBLEM**
The most recent issue is a smoking belt. I noticed a new noise, I say new because I am always listening for a different/new one, that sounded like a belt squealing. No biggie I figured. Once I got home I was going to inspect and tighten or change the belt if needed. I was sitting at a red light and noticed some smoke and smell. Decided to pull off at a gas station. Upon inspection I saw a bit of smoke coming from behind the timing belt cover (or so it appeared). It seemed that all the pulley’s were spinning freely and not locking up. The other belts also looked fine; no smoke or worn spots.PROGRESS
I decided not to chance the belt breaking and have parked it at the shop that I mentioned above. We are going to pull the timing belt cover this weekend and have a look. Hoping that the timing has just jumped and that is all.QUESTION
Since I just replaced the water pump I am figuring that that should be fine. I’ll check for leaks and such. Depending on the belt I will replace it. What are some other things that I should watch out for/replace while I have that torn down?[/spoiler]
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They say a picture is worth a thousand words so I made a video. 😉 Pay no attention to the southern accent behind the camera.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pEBNYlC173k
The amp was in a different vehicle at one time so it isn’t/shouldn’t be the cause of the issue. As I said in the video the amp was off. I get that you may be hinting at an electrical issue. :stick:
Any who, hope this helps some. I am going to be cleaning up the garage. Say the shop tour video today and made me feel ashamed. I’ll be watching my phone for email replies.
You said you had low compression in 2 cylinders… That alone can cause the problems you are describing. And it maybe that you have bad cylinder head valves, usually exhaust valve. Have it leak down tested to find out what is wrong with it. If its the cylinder head, you are in luck because that is only a 1 or 2 day job and it doesn’t cost much to replace, that is, if you do it yourself. Rebuilt Ebay cylinder heads run at about 200$.
You may have burnt/broken exhaust valves on your cylinder head.
[ebay]110948274522[/ebay]
I was having very very poor performance and idle kind of like you are describing, except I was getting 30 psi in 2 cylinders. I too thought I had bad pistons rings, but when I took the cylinder head off, I discovered 2 burnt/broken exhaust valve. This was the cause of my very poor compression, idle, and performance. When I looked at the rings and pistons they were in good condition still and did not even have much wear. The only thing that the 333,000 miles did to them was allow carbon to clog the oil passages and to freeze the oil rings, and to thereby consume 1 qt of oil every 200 miles. So I overhauled it and put new rings and pistons in it and we are back on the road 🙂
You said you had low compression in 2 cylinders… That alone can cause the problems you are describing. And it maybe that you have bad cylinder head valves, usually exhaust valve. Have it leak down tested to find out what is wrong with it. If its the cylinder head, you are in luck because that is only a 1 or 2 day job and it doesn’t cost much to replace, that is, if you do it yourself. Rebuilt Ebay cylinder heads run at about 200$.
You may have burnt/broken exhaust valves on your cylinder head.
[ebay]110948274522[/ebay]
I was having very very poor performance and idle kind of like you are describing, except I was getting 30 psi in 2 cylinders. I too thought I had bad pistons rings, but when I took the cylinder head off, I discovered 2 burnt/broken exhaust valve. This was the cause of my very poor compression, idle, and performance. When I looked at the rings and pistons they were in good condition still and did not even have much wear. The only thing that the 333,000 miles did to them was allow carbon to clog the oil passages and to freeze the oil rings, and to thereby consume 1 qt of oil every 200 miles. So I overhauled it and put new rings and pistons in it and we are back on the road 🙂
Based on your more detailed description you could have contributing issues. Yes I have seen issues with aftermarket PCV valves causing idle issues therefore I don’t recommend them. Also your amp COULD be causing an issue depending on how it’s hooked up, it could be fooling the electrical system and the computer is trying to compensate for it. In addition the thrust bearings or low compression could also be coming into play. With an older vehicle like this with aftermarket parts and modifications it becomes more difficult to give advice unfortunately. You need to start going down every road in your diagnosis eliminating causes one at a time, you might start with the PCV valve since it’s easy enough to change.
Based on your more detailed description you could have contributing issues. Yes I have seen issues with aftermarket PCV valves causing idle issues therefore I don’t recommend them. Also your amp COULD be causing an issue depending on how it’s hooked up, it could be fooling the electrical system and the computer is trying to compensate for it. In addition the thrust bearings or low compression could also be coming into play. With an older vehicle like this with aftermarket parts and modifications it becomes more difficult to give advice unfortunately. You need to start going down every road in your diagnosis eliminating causes one at a time, you might start with the PCV valve since it’s easy enough to change.
😳 Got a little egg on my face.
So if you look back through this thread I had been describing an erratic idle of sorts. I had suspected the IACV. Turns out that is what was wrong, so to say. Turns out the gasket may have been missing from it. I recently purchased another 91 Civic to have replacement parts and other body parts as I am working on getting my car painted. I was going to switch them out and noticed that the one that I pulled had a gasket and mine didn’t. I have since put the gasket onto my original IACV, it was much cleaner, and it seems like the idle has improved.
I am going to post some more photos of where I am with the P&B (Paint and Body) soon.
😳 Got a little egg on my face.
So if you look back through this thread I had been describing an erratic idle of sorts. I had suspected the IACV. Turns out that is what was wrong, so to say. Turns out the gasket may have been missing from it. I recently purchased another 91 Civic to have replacement parts and other body parts as I am working on getting my car painted. I was going to switch them out and noticed that the one that I pulled had a gasket and mine didn’t. I have since put the gasket onto my original IACV, it was much cleaner, and it seems like the idle has improved.
I am going to post some more photos of where I am with the P&B (Paint and Body) soon.
No worries man, sometimes to road to solutions is long and sorted. The bottom line is that you figured it out and you’ve posted your fix and I thank you for that and for using our little forum.
No worries man, sometimes to road to solutions is long and sorted. The bottom line is that you figured it out and you’ve posted your fix and I thank you for that and for using our little forum.
So I am sure that this is an age old question about engine swaps. I have looked around the net and found a nice guide The Ultimate Honda Engine Swap Guide
http://krang.modified.com/tech/swapguide1.pdfWhich engine swap would be the most bang for the buck?
Does anyone have any experience with an engine swap?I have never done an engine swap before much less pulled an engine and put the same one back into the car. The guy that am working with is experienced and I trust that he knows what he is doing. Just apprehensive about things that I haven’t done before.
So I am sure that this is an age old question about engine swaps. I have looked around the net and found a nice guide The Ultimate Honda Engine Swap Guide
http://krang.modified.com/tech/swapguide1.pdfWhich engine swap would be the most bang for the buck?
Does anyone have any experience with an engine swap?I have never done an engine swap before much less pulled an engine and put the same one back into the car. The guy that am working with is experienced and I trust that he knows what he is doing. Just apprehensive about things that I haven’t done before.
If you don’t have experience with that type of work I don’t recommend it. You need a basic understanding of what you’re doing not to mention some specialized tools. Just check this forum. You can’t throw a stick without running into someone that attempted something like that for the first time and now their engine won’t even run or runs poorly. My point is save yourself some trouble and think twice about getting in over your head, especially if this car is your driver.
If you don’t have experience with that type of work I don’t recommend it. You need a basic understanding of what you’re doing not to mention some specialized tools. Just check this forum. You can’t throw a stick without running into someone that attempted something like that for the first time and now their engine won’t even run or runs poorly. My point is save yourself some trouble and think twice about getting in over your head, especially if this car is your driver.
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