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Hello everyone! I hope to make this a work log of sorts. I will be picking up where I left off at another forum. It was a computer forum that I have been part of for some time. I wasn’t getting bad info there or anything. I just figured that a vehicle mod/repair forum would be a better place for me to get information. Enough about that.
My 91 Honda Civic Si is my daily driver. I have been working on this car along and along to keep it up and running. No modifications at this time. Just a stock engine and body. I am currently working with someone on paint and body. I do the work on the weekends and he lets me use with shop and equipment.
INFO
~165,000 miles
Weak rings (low compression on cylinders 2&4)
New water pump and timing belt (a few months back)
New fuel pump and filter (few months back)
New head seals (few months ago)
Timing Belt and Tensioner changed (9/16/2012
New Altinator and Battery (11/10/13)—————————————————————————————
Timing Belt Problem
[spoiler]**THE PROBLEM**
The most recent issue is a smoking belt. I noticed a new noise, I say new because I am always listening for a different/new one, that sounded like a belt squealing. No biggie I figured. Once I got home I was going to inspect and tighten or change the belt if needed. I was sitting at a red light and noticed some smoke and smell. Decided to pull off at a gas station. Upon inspection I saw a bit of smoke coming from behind the timing belt cover (or so it appeared). It seemed that all the pulley’s were spinning freely and not locking up. The other belts also looked fine; no smoke or worn spots.PROGRESS
I decided not to chance the belt breaking and have parked it at the shop that I mentioned above. We are going to pull the timing belt cover this weekend and have a look. Hoping that the timing has just jumped and that is all.QUESTION
Since I just replaced the water pump I am figuring that that should be fine. I’ll check for leaks and such. Depending on the belt I will replace it. What are some other things that I should watch out for/replace while I have that torn down?[/spoiler]
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Replies
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[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=31592]In my experience more often than not an idle issue similar to the one you have is the result of someone adjusting the idle screw on the throttle body. Once they do this the computer is all out of whack and can’t set the correct idle. If it appears to have been tampered with then I would suggest resetting the idle screw according to the factory procedure.[/quote]
Do you happen to have a handy dandy video on how to do that? 😉 Or, happen to know where I can find that procedure?
Just wanted to throw this out there too. I noticed this morning while sitting at a red light that I could get it to do it. If I tapped the throttle it would move to right above 1,000 then idle down, shutter and then return to normal idle.
Still sound like the idle screw?
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=31592]In my experience more often than not an idle issue similar to the one you have is the result of someone adjusting the idle screw on the throttle body. Once they do this the computer is all out of whack and can’t set the correct idle. If it appears to have been tampered with then I would suggest resetting the idle screw according to the factory procedure.[/quote]
Do you happen to have a handy dandy video on how to do that? 😉 Or, happen to know where I can find that procedure?
Just wanted to throw this out there too. I noticed this morning while sitting at a red light that I could get it to do it. If I tapped the throttle it would move to right above 1,000 then idle down, shutter and then return to normal idle.
Still sound like the idle screw?
[quote=”college man” post=31382]Try tapping on the IAC valve with the handle
of a screw driver.If the idle changes then replace
the IAC valveI gave what you said a try. The throttle body has been cleaned and doesn’t seem to be sticking. I don’t have any acceleration issue just idle.
I tapped on the IACV and there was no change.
[quote=”college man” post=31382]Try tapping on the IAC valve with the handle
of a screw driver.If the idle changes then replace
the IAC valveI gave what you said a try. The throttle body has been cleaned and doesn’t seem to be sticking. I don’t have any acceleration issue just idle.
I tapped on the IACV and there was no change.
Just wanted to give this a bump/update.
Still no progress on the idle issue. The colder weather doesn’t seem to be changing anything.Once it reaches temp it starts to do it. Some additional things that I have noticed. Pumping the brakes will make the car idle up for a sec. I have also noticed that when I press the clutch down the idle will change, sometimes. This isn’t a drastic change if it does.
As far as the update goes. I don’t think that I have mentioned that I am doing body work on the car along and along. Been working on the hood recently. It is just so touchy to “oil canning” while sanding that it has been rough getting it straight. I still have a decent ways to go but I am always throwing ideas about paint around in my head.
I have an idea of what colors that I want to use. I am a fan of dark blue, red, white, and black. I am thinking that Blue and white would look good or red and black. There again red and white would look good as well. I worry about blue and black being to dark.
I am going to have to replace the bumpers and have been trying to find a decent place to look at aftermarket replacements. I would like to have fog lights. If anyone knows a decent site please suggest it.
Also rims are a ways down the road but I will be looking for some. Not looking to go super low profile or anything but something a little larger would be nice. I think it has 15″s on it now. I’ve heard that moving to 16″s give me a larger selection on tires/rims. Again, I’m open to suggestions.
Look forward to hearing from all of you.
Just wanted to give this a bump/update.
Still no progress on the idle issue. The colder weather doesn’t seem to be changing anything.Once it reaches temp it starts to do it. Some additional things that I have noticed. Pumping the brakes will make the car idle up for a sec. I have also noticed that when I press the clutch down the idle will change, sometimes. This isn’t a drastic change if it does.
As far as the update goes. I don’t think that I have mentioned that I am doing body work on the car along and along. Been working on the hood recently. It is just so touchy to “oil canning” while sanding that it has been rough getting it straight. I still have a decent ways to go but I am always throwing ideas about paint around in my head.
I have an idea of what colors that I want to use. I am a fan of dark blue, red, white, and black. I am thinking that Blue and white would look good or red and black. There again red and white would look good as well. I worry about blue and black being to dark.
I am going to have to replace the bumpers and have been trying to find a decent place to look at aftermarket replacements. I would like to have fog lights. If anyone knows a decent site please suggest it.
Also rims are a ways down the road but I will be looking for some. Not looking to go super low profile or anything but something a little larger would be nice. I think it has 15″s on it now. I’ve heard that moving to 16″s give me a larger selection on tires/rims. Again, I’m open to suggestions.
Look forward to hearing from all of you.
Check to see if the throttle is fully closed at idle, if someone adjusted the throttle cable too tight it could cause the problem you’re having. I usually check for this by manually turning the throttle back at the throttle body, if I can push it all the way closed then I know it’s binding or the cable is too tight.
Check to see if the throttle is fully closed at idle, if someone adjusted the throttle cable too tight it could cause the problem you’re having. I usually check for this by manually turning the throttle back at the throttle body, if I can push it all the way closed then I know it’s binding or the cable is too tight.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=33297]Check to see if the throttle is fully closed at idle, if someone adjusted the throttle cable too tight it could cause the problem you’re having. I usually check for this by manually turning the throttle back at the throttle body, if I can push it all the way closed then I know it’s binding or the cable is too tight.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rawvJop772E%5B/quote%5D
I suppose that you meant can’t there. Umm checked this out last night. Was at operating temp and throttle was fully closed. Seems to do fine when sitting still, such as at the house when I was looking at all this. No searching idle or anything like that. It seems to be when I am in traffic.
Quick thought. I guess I should have mentioned this before. I do have a rather sizable stereo. 2 DB drive DVC 12s and a 1200W amp. I think that it may be some of the issue. I have noticed that it puts a drain on the car.The reason that I haven’t been concerned with mentioning it is that it seems to happen with or without the subs playing. The IACV seems to kick in and idle up when needed.
Just to recap, I most often see the issue after pushing in the clutch while coming o a stop or if i tap the accelerator and raise the RPM just above 1K. The car idles down then idles back up to normal.
ETCG, in one of your videos that I re-watched the other day (keep’em coming BTW) you mentioned exhaust. I have been thinking that it might be a problem. When I first started working on the car it was blowing oil. This lead me to believe that the rings were gone. We changed the PCV valve and that seemed to help. The car no longer does that and it isn’t blowing a blueish smoke of any kind. I have done a compression test at one point and found that cylinders 2 and 4 were on the low end of acceptable. I have not retested after the timing belt. After replacng the timing belt the car is running great and has good acceleration; making me lean away from blown/worn rings. I digress, what are the chances that the exhaust could be causing some issues?
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=33297]Check to see if the throttle is fully closed at idle, if someone adjusted the throttle cable too tight it could cause the problem you’re having. I usually check for this by manually turning the throttle back at the throttle body, if I can push it all the way closed then I know it’s binding or the cable is too tight.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rawvJop772E%5B/quote%5D
I suppose that you meant can’t there. Umm checked this out last night. Was at operating temp and throttle was fully closed. Seems to do fine when sitting still, such as at the house when I was looking at all this. No searching idle or anything like that. It seems to be when I am in traffic.
Quick thought. I guess I should have mentioned this before. I do have a rather sizable stereo. 2 DB drive DVC 12s and a 1200W amp. I think that it may be some of the issue. I have noticed that it puts a drain on the car.The reason that I haven’t been concerned with mentioning it is that it seems to happen with or without the subs playing. The IACV seems to kick in and idle up when needed.
Just to recap, I most often see the issue after pushing in the clutch while coming o a stop or if i tap the accelerator and raise the RPM just above 1K. The car idles down then idles back up to normal.
ETCG, in one of your videos that I re-watched the other day (keep’em coming BTW) you mentioned exhaust. I have been thinking that it might be a problem. When I first started working on the car it was blowing oil. This lead me to believe that the rings were gone. We changed the PCV valve and that seemed to help. The car no longer does that and it isn’t blowing a blueish smoke of any kind. I have done a compression test at one point and found that cylinders 2 and 4 were on the low end of acceptable. I have not retested after the timing belt. After replacng the timing belt the car is running great and has good acceleration; making me lean away from blown/worn rings. I digress, what are the chances that the exhaust could be causing some issues?
I have heard also of thrust bearings causing your RPM issue on a clutch setup. However i have not seen this myself first hand. But after reading about your excessive blow by and low compression, it brought the above thought into my head.
With the amp/subs completely disconnected, do you still have the idle issue?
Keep us posted.
I have heard also of thrust bearings causing your RPM issue on a clutch setup. However i have not seen this myself first hand. But after reading about your excessive blow by and low compression, it brought the above thought into my head.
With the amp/subs completely disconnected, do you still have the idle issue?
Keep us posted.
Was watching the 1998 Honda Civic Engine Part 1
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Me9w6aIqJ48&feature=plcp[/video]
At 16:30ish you mention the PCV valve causing issues. I do have an aftermarket PCV valve that was changed not to long ago. What kind of idle issues have you seen from the PCV being a non OEM part?
Was watching the 1998 Honda Civic Engine Part 1
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Me9w6aIqJ48&feature=plcp[/video]
At 16:30ish you mention the PCV valve causing issues. I do have an aftermarket PCV valve that was changed not to long ago. What kind of idle issues have you seen from the PCV being a non OEM part?
They say a picture is worth a thousand words so I made a video. 😉 Pay no attention to the southern accent behind the camera.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pEBNYlC173k
The amp was in a different vehicle at one time so it isn’t/shouldn’t be the cause of the issue. As I said in the video the amp was off. I get that you may be hinting at an electrical issue. :stick:
Any who, hope this helps some. I am going to be cleaning up the garage. Say the shop tour video today and made me feel ashamed. I’ll be watching my phone for email replies.
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