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Hey forum.
So it fking happened again, taking my sister to class and my 90 DA sputtered off, barely made it into a parking lot. But when she cools down after an hour she starts right back up like nothing happened!
I recently rebuilt my distributor with a new coil pack, and igniter/icm with fresh thermal compound on the ICM.
Now obviously i searched and found all kinds of info, and honestly this is one of the most difficult things to troubleshoot, i get no CEL, (obd 0). And this issue seemed to have gotten worse, it used to be that she wouldnt start when hot, after a short drive, now she dies while driving slow or stop/go traffic and wont start back up until she cools, i also take the negative off the battery.
Parts replaced in the last 3 years that might be related: Fuel pump/sock Main relay Fuel filter *I also use injector cleaner once a month NGK plugs/wires New coil pack/ICM
Things i suspect but I’m not sure on: Timing, ignition/mechanical. I wasnt able to get my car timed since shorting the jumper in the passenger footwell does nothing.
Throttle Position Sensor, i also have a slight hesitation when accelerating sometimes.
Coolant Temp Sensor, from my exp with Euro cars, these sensors tell the ECU the car is a lot hotter than it is and will keep the car from starting.
Fuel injectors, lord i hope not $_$
Being unemployed i don’t have the funds to just guess and throw parts at the car.
Side note, and maybe unrelated but when i shut the engine off i don’t hear that sucking/vacuum sound coming from the intake like i used to.
Thanks for reading my novel, and please leave your feedback, the info im getting from web searches and friends is all over the place!
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You need to see what your losing when it happens.
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problems
what you need to do is check to see if it has spark when its not starting and bring a can of starter fuild with you so if it doesnt start you can see if its a feul problem by spraying it in the intake
[quote=”Rob781″ post=175151]what you need to do is check to see if it has spark when its not starting and bring a can of starter fuild with you so if it doesnt start you can see if its a feul problem by spraying it in the intake[/quote]
Thanks, I’ll get a can tomorrow. My car does crank after it stalls out, but doesn’t start until like 45 minutes after It’s good and cool. Can the fuel system be strongly effected by normal engine bay heat, the temp gauge never rises above normal.
Would you think a bad/failing Idle Air Control Valve be related at all? I felt the unit and It’s VERY hot to the touch after only 10-15 minutes of idling the car trying to recreate the problem.
*Finally, I didn’t get my igniting timing done due to financial constraints after I rebuilt my distributor, but a friend advised me that this might be a cause due to timing, but it doesn’t make sense how timing would just cause the engine to stall out after 30 minutes of normal operation (from my house, to my sisters college)
I had problem with stalling before and it lead me to Crankshaft Position Sensor. Is you car equipped with that?
[quote=”terryf” post=175223]I had problem with stalling before and it lead me to Crankshaft Position Sensor. Is you car equipped with that?[/quote]
It doesn’t seem like my ’90 Integra has that sensor. Thanks for the idea though.
The crank sensor is internal to the distributor. I’ve replaced a few dizzy’s for the same complaint, especially when the vehicle gets up to operating temp. I know you may not have a lot of money to check ignition timing, but you also don’t want to spend more money replacing parts if you don’t have to. Get the timing checked or buy a timing light and do it yourself for free. Also, when the issue occurs, check for spark. Or did you replace the distributor components that you listed because you didn’t have spark in the first place?
[quote=”terryf” post=175223]I had problem with stalling before and it lead me to Crankshaft Position Sensor. Is you car equipped with that?[/quote]
Agreed, when heated up the can just lose signal like the vehicle is not running. Won’t always set a code
If you getting a catalytic converter code and stalling happens and starts up when it cools off its the catalytic converter clogged when its hot. And if you hear a rattling sound near the engine bay then yes your converter went bad. Any codes with the sensors, convert, then theres ur culprit. Happened to me and switched it out and it solved stalling.
Thanks for all the replies folks, I’ve isolated the issue to air pockets in the cooling system after I cleaned my FITV, and timing.
I also know for a fact 2nd gen Integra’s don’t have a crankshaft position sensor, the sensor you’re thinking of in the disributor is the “crank angle sensor”, Eric talks about it in his integra distributor replacement video, he also mentioned he’s never seen one go bad (though it could be possible). I’m also replacing the CTS for good measure since It’s going on 28 years old. I’ll update this post if bleeding the cooling system, having the timing set right, and lastely replacing the coolant temp sensor remedies the stalling issue.
I now also strongly suspect the IACV due to fluctuating idle and how the unit is burning hot to the touch, even after I cleaned it last summer (hotter than the intake manifold It’s mounted to, and it has coolant lines going to it). I’m sure the temp is normal but the idle could affected by air in the coolant system according to Eric’s “bleeding a cooling system” video.
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