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Hey guys.
My mom has a 89 dodge dakota with a lower end knock.She had the engine rebuilt a few years ago.The man who built it told her to bring it back after 500miles so he could go back threw it and check everything.
Well she didn – She drove it 800miles and it started kocking and had no oil psi so she parked it. (She tryed to get back in contact with the man who rebuilt it but she could find him)
Well she parked it for 3 years. she was gona junk it but i offered her what she had in it 1800 for the rebuild.
I was gona rebuild it for my self but now im just gona rebuild it and give it to my brother for competing school.Its got a 3.9 v6.
I pulled the engine today and coulden get the torque convertor bolts off soo i pulled the engine with the torque convertor steal on the engine… When i got the motor out i was checking everything and found the torque convertor and a 1 to 1 1/2 play to it (The bolts wear lose) I literally unscrewed them by hand.
I started thinking this could have been the knocking.
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Iv got the pan off.
Everything looks good. There is about 1/2mm play side to side in each rod.
There nothing in the oil pan.Anyone know what size socket i need for the harmonic balancer?? Its bigger then a 1″
As soon as i get that socket ill finish and post video!!!
Thanks!
I just pulled the rod caps off!!! All the bearing in the crank look great. Look like they wear turn today.
Like i said when i pulled the fly wheel (The flywheel was not tight – you could easyly turn it a 1 – 1 1/2) We noticed one of the bolt holes is cracked as well on the edge.
here is the flywheel http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/ … ing=search
Well looking like there ‘ok’ and actually being ‘ok’ is two different things when it comes to engine bearings. You have to measure your clearances for the bearings over doing a visual inspection unfortunately.
Hopefully the knocking issues was due to the flywheel….
Keep us posted.
The flywheel is 8.99 (wow) I starting to think my gauge crapped out on me.
Since this is a easy engine installment – Im thinking about replacing the flywheel and dropping the engine back in with a new gauge and seeing what it does bc right now we dont have the money to do anything more so for 20$ and a little work in maybe worth it.
I just want to restate the facts. You had an engine that was rebuilt, and was run past the suggested oil change interval for the break-in period. You drained the oil and found metal flakes in the oil, which are probably from the bearings. You had no oil pressure, probably due to said metal flakes clogging the oil pick-up, and starving the engine of oil, and the engine developed a knock. I really can’t see how throwing a flywheel on the motor is going to correct these problems man. I’m just trying to be brutally honest, because you seem to ignore alot of the suggestions that you ask for. However, I agree with Dreamer, I hope that your new flywheel somehow corrects the knock, but I honestly doubt it will.
Damaged flywheels and flexplates have been known to produce noise similar to a rod knock however as posted above other facts that you have posted point to more than one issue so be aware of that fact. Also measuring with your ‘eyes’ is not going to be accurate enough for engine clearances I would suggest at the very least getting some plastigauge and checking the actual bearing clearances instead of assuming they’re good, now would be a great time to do a repair if one was required.
ok. How do i I check the bearing? How do i check the crank?
Im more then happy to do this if some one will tell me the steps and tools i need.
ThanksIs this right for checking the rod crank? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APmmOIL-CcQ
So from what i understand-
I need to know what the crank has been turned to? Soo Ill need to get a mic?
Then what ever the mic say will tell me how much room should be between the bearings?
Then ill use the plastigauge to check clearance?What should the clearance bee?
Quoted From OnThe7ThDayFord:
So from what i understand-
I need to know what the crank has been turned to? Soo Ill need to get a mic?
Then what ever the mic say will tell me how much room should be between the bearings?
Then ill use the plastigauge to check clearance?What should the clearance bee?
Yes, you can mic the crank to see if it’s been turned.
No, the mic does NOT tell you what the clearance should be. You use Plastigauge between the bearing and the journal(s) on the mains and the rods bearings to measure clearance.
The video you linked to explains how you would measure all the bearing clearances.
You will need to have all these specs from a shop manual so you know what you are looking for – even a Chiltons or Haynes should have those numbers.
You also might want to watch this series of video’s from RealFixesRealFast. I saw the thumbnail of them using plasti-gage so it will help you somewhat.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JFXVIH85 … uj6o7LY%3D
[b][b].003″ is what i got all around.
Iv got the motor back in the truck. The trans is mounted and the motor mounts are set. Iv got all the wiring hooked up expt the alt and alt brackets.
Im trying to test fire the junker on just the battery but Im getting a no crank no start. Iv got everything hooked up right.
It acts as if there not enf juice seems like only some of the dash lights are coming on and sometimes the buzzing sound telling you the key is in the ign is MIA. I hear relays clicking when i turn the key on then when i hit the key nothing no sounds at all.
at first i thought it was the park sensor/neutral safety switch – bc the shift leakage had slid out of place on one side and it was not shifting right but i fixed that. There anther spot on the trans for anther cable I think its for the kick down cable or something.
I didn realize how bad the wiring was until now omg fun fun.
im gona try a few things and see what happens.
Thanks guys really means alote[/b][/b]
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