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Runs 8-10 miles or 8-1o minutes sitting still, once it dies it will start back 3 or 4 times and run 1-3 minutes each time, ive fixed several grounds on the car, checked the main relay, its good,cant start it with ether when it acts up so i believe it to be a fuek problem, also curious about the ignition switch
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You English is a little weak but if I understand correctly you might have a problem with venting the fuel tank. When it stops, while taking the fuel cap off, check for air sucking sounds. Leave the fuel cap off as a test.
No codes?
Diagnostic Trouble Codes – 1989 Honda
1 Oxygen Sensor A.
2 Oxygen Sensor B.
3 Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP).
5 Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP).
6 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT Sensor).
7 Throttle Position Sensor.
8 Crankshaft Position/Top Dead Center (CKP/TDC) Sensor.
9 Crank Angle (CYL) Sensor Circuit.
10 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor.
12 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System.
13 Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor
14 Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve.
17 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS).PROCEDURE:
When the Check Engine warning light has been reported on, turn the ignition on, move the front passenger seat to the rear position and observe the LED on the front of the ECU. The LED indicates a system failure code by blinking frequency. The ECU LED can indicate any number of simultaneous component problems by blinking separate codes, one after another.If output indicates CODE 4, 11, 15, 16 or exceeds 17, count the number of blinks again. If the indicator is in fact, blinking these codes, substitute a known-good ECU and recheck If the indication goes away, replace the original ECU.
missing fuel when it stalls, the main relay is good, I know hondas are known for bad ground, ive fixed the grounds under the hood and the pump ground at the tank but i need to drop the tank again and fix that ground wire at the body, i dont know how new the ignition switch is but i can tell its been replaced at some time.
Any codes? This is typically from one of the sensors in the honda distributor going out. The cam, crank, and TDC sensors are in the distributor. If one goes out, the car will typically still run, but poorly. However, I had a 91 civic that had the same exact problem you describe, and I tested it. Turned out to be one sensor in the distributor. If that is the case, you need to replace the distributor.
As far as I know honda’s are not known to have bad grounds, or for that matter bad anything. They are one of the only makes that still have 80’s models on the road with nothing other than regular maintanance. If you don’t have a code finder you can usually take your car to any major parts store and get them to scan your codes for free.
Based on your description I’d be looking hard at that ignition switch that you suspect as that is a very common problem on Hondas and often causes the problem you describe. Only replace the fuel pump as a last resort AND only after you’ve verified that it is indeed getting power and not running during the time when it stalls.
Thank you to everyone for your help, my biggest apologies for being away from the forum for so long, turned out to be a bad coil. Replaced the distributor with a new one (with a lifetime warranty 🙂 ). Since then the engine and trans have come out with a list of other things, the rusty beat up 89 4 door lx automatic civic body has been layer to rest and replaced with a fairly straight rust free local 5 speed hatch DX body, still a project but its coming along.
[quote=”GM2HondaWrenchTurner” post=137100]Thank you to everyone for your help, my biggest apologies for being away from the forum for so long, turned out to be a bad coil. Replaced the distributor with a new one (with a lifetime warranty 🙂 ). Since then the engine and trans have come out with a list of other things, the rusty beat up 89 4 door lx automatic civic body has been layer to rest and replaced with a fairly straight rust free local 5 speed hatch DX body, still a project but its coming along.[/quote]
Glad you are making progress. 🙂 Thanks for the update.
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