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EDIT: Read post: http://ericthecarguy.com/kunena/8-Service-and-Repair-Questions-Answered-Here/41968-86-volvo-740-turbo-vibration-and-noise-issues?start=70#83381
Greetings all the way from Norway!
I have an issue with my 1986 Volvo 740 Turbo Intercooler that I can’t find any solution to. When driving past 60 km/h the car start to vibrate. I have had my car to a couple of different workshops, but none have managed to get it fixed.
Thought I could mention some technical specs about the car.
Engine – B230ET (134kW, turbocharged)
Injection system – Bosch Motronic ML 1.0
Gearbox – M46 (manual 4-speed + electric activated overdrive)
Rear axle – 1031 (torsen differential)Here is a runthrough of what I’ve done so far:
* Replaced every bushing on the car.
* Replaced engine mounts and gearbox mount.
* Replaced bushing and bearing for the driveshaft.
* Replaced the gearbox with one driven approx. 100.000km
* Replaced the differential and had the rear axle at the Volvo dealer to check for slack. Found well within tolerance.
* New tyres and rebalanced them.
* Changed wheel bearings.
* Changed rubber coupling (hardy coupling) between the gearbox and driveshaft.There have been vibrations since I bought the car 10 months ago. It is a common problem that the bushing for the driveshaft goes bad (which causes vibrations), so I didn’t really see that as a problem. After changing it I also realized that the driveshaft had a loose piece inside it that were impossible to remove. I then bought a used driveshaft. The vibrations were now less intensive, but very noticeble. I then replaced much of the things mentioned above, without any luck. Had it at a workshop to get the issue sorted out, the driveshaft were then replaced again with another used one. Got the car back as “fixed”, but there were still vibrations. Turned out the workshop installed it wrong (splines mismatched the balance markings. I corrected that, now the vibrations are almost gone, but are still there. Doesn’t look like any workshop know how to fix a RWD car anymore. None have equipment to measure angles etc.
Any suggestions on what to do here? This have been bugging me for a long time and won’t give up until it is fixed!
– Frank
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I probably should go and have another chat with the workshop then. After the repair/replacement I changed all the bushings and meanwhile sent the axle to the dealer workshop to get everything checked out. This issue should have been corrected by the workshop. I did pay them around $400 which is equivalent to about a couple of hours pay. I have had some poor experience with them afterwards, so I suspect the mechanic have not done anything and just billed me for a couple of hours.
Would this be dangerous to drive with in any way? Could the wheels lock up if it fails completely? Not sure if I should park the car and drive another car until I can get this repaired.
The more you drive it.The more you destroy it.
It seems to be getting super hot. next time you
drive it. Put your hand on the rear diff cover.
see if its hot. be careful.I came back from work now which is about half an hour drive. I jacked up the car a little to crawl under and feel on the differential. I first put my hand on the cover which was lukewarm, and it got hotter the further back i felt towards where the drive shaft connects. It wasn’t so hot that I burned my hand, but it was quite hot.
This would suggest a broken bearing?
I went and spoke with the workshop that checked the rear axle last summer. I got a hold of the person that I dealt with then. I explained what I found when I opened the differential and showed some pictures of the gears and the oil. He looked quite shocked when he saw the oil. I were told that there is no other option than that they take in the car to look at it again. They also wanted the oil that I drained off to take some samples. We agreed that I’ll contact them again when I have time, and not drive the car more than I have to.
I’m going to get the underside treated for rust next week and repaint the car at the start of June. Luckily I still have my Skoda that I can drive. Not as much fun, but it will have to do.
Funny that the one thing that were supposed to be guaranteed to be fully functional and well within specifications turned out to be the cause for all the trouble. I’ll update later this summer when the workshop have looked into the issue.
The car have been at the paint shop for a couple of weeks now. Not long until it is done, so I’m going to contact the workshop to get the rear axle fixed as soon as possible after the paint job.
I’m a bit uncertain what I can demand in this situation? This have cost me a lot of hours and money to troubleshoot. I want the differential to be at least as good as one driven 160,000km (about 99,400 miles). That were the condition of it before I handed it in for checking last summer. At least the pinion bearing needs to be replaced besides adjusting everything properly. I would guess the other bearings too would be recommended to replace because of the bad oil? It probably didn’t have the proper viscosity anymore and had debris in it. I’m also concerned about the gears. Would these also need replacing to be at least as good as 160,000km? I don’t want to drive around with anything that could break because of metal fatigue as a result of one year with bad oil/adjustment.
The paint job have been dragged out quite a bit, unfortunately. I haven’t forgotten about this thread! I’ve been promised to get the car back this week. I spoke with the workshop last week, and they’re going to take in my car and look at the differential next Monday (29th). Hopefully I’ll get some answers and hopefully a solution to this annoying issue shortly after. I’m still a bit unsure what I can demand in this situation. Some people have told me to just let it go and just buy a second hand axle with working differential. Hopefully I won’t need to look for another second hand axle. I reckon it will be quite difficult to find another one with low mileage, correct speedometer gear/sensor and the correct gear ratio.
[quote=”samaron” post=67634]The paint job have been dragged out quite a bit, unfortunately. I haven’t forgotten about this thread! I’ve been promised to get the car back this week. I spoke with the workshop last week, and they’re going to take in my car and look at the differential next Monday (29th). Hopefully I’ll get some answers and hopefully a solution to this annoying issue shortly after. I’m still a bit unsure what I can demand in this situation. Some people have told me to just let it go and just buy a second hand axle with working differential. Hopefully I won’t need to look for another second hand axle. I reckon it will be quite difficult to find another one with low mileage, correct speedometer gear/sensor and the correct gear ratio.[/quote]
I would suggest to the shop that the rear was rebuilt by them and your
not satisfied with the vibration and all the metal in the oil.I just got a phone call from the workshop. A mechanic have looked at it now and insist that there is nothing wrong with the differential. He claims that the oil is black because of some additives. I asked if they have measured the backlash and other clearances with a micrometer gauge, but I were told that wasn’t necessary. The mechanical parts isn’t that precise.
I’m a bit unsure now. Everything points to the rear axle, the differential. I hear clunking noises, bearing noises, feel slight vibrations and I almost burn my hand when touching the differential housing after a short drive. Something is clearly wrong, but the mechanic insist it is absolutely fine. Looks like I’ll have to start searching for a used rear axle…
EDIT: No, the Volvo is not lowered. Brand new stock suspension.
Yes, indeed. I’ll drive it for a while, but it is annoying with the vibration and clunking. I kind of hope something will go wrong so I can tell them “I told you so”.
I had a look under the car a while ago, and they haven’t even had the cover off. I know that because the rust protection coating is undisturbed. They’ve only opened the fill plug. Obviously they haven’t done what I asked them to do, and they don’t want to do it. They actually told me “the car is old, it is normal”. I have another car driven more than the differential in this car, and it do not suffer the same issues. I’ve tried other Volvo 740s driven three times the length and don’t have any form for vibration, clunking or heat in the differential.
Looks like this is a battle I can’t win… Maybe I can if I get some hard evidence. I don’t know how expensive paint and a dial gauge is. The tooth bite pattern and backlash I suspect are wrong.
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