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85 Corolla GTS coolant boiling over

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  • #522225
    EdwardEdward
    Participant

      Hello, I’m a new member looking for help. My 85 Corolla GT-S Twin Cam 16-Valve (4AGE-C engine with 263K miles) is boiling the coolant into the overflow tank after I turn off the car. Once I start the car, the temp guage climbs towards hot, then it draws most of the coolant back into the radiator, thus bringig the temp guage back to normal. I already replaced the cap and flushed the cooling system using a bottle of radiator flush, but the problem persists. The fan clutch and thermostat are both 5 years old. I also have very little heat inside the car and the heater control valve on the firewall is very hard to open, which I fear needs replacing.

    Viewing 10 replies - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)
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    • #522358
      John B KobberstadJohn B Kobberstad
      Participant

        You may have an air pocket in the cooling system causing you not to have good heat

        #522377
        college mancollege man
        Moderator

          As suggested you may have air in the cooling system.

          #522502
          BillBill
          Participant

            As the others have suggested you have to make certain all of the air is removed from the cooling system. When you are sure there is no more air trapped and the problem persists you could have a combustion leak into the cooling system. (Cylinder Head Gasket)

            #522704
            JamesJames
            Participant

              I go with both there suggestions pretty much all that can cause that problem, assuming you are using proper coolant and not just normal water which has a low boiling point and would make anything else you do pointless. Don’t know how many people run normal water and then are astonished when they have a over heating situation.

              #522764
              MARK FELDSTEINMARK FELDSTEIN
              Participant

                Once it gets to operating temp, does the fan actually kick in or not? And when you flushed your system, did you do it forwards or backwards and did you back-flush at the heater core? That could also esplain why your heater is on the cool side unless it’s a bad linkage or control valve or blend door actuator if it has one.

                Also, to test your thermostat, remove it, boil some water on your stove, toss the thermostat into the pot when it boils and see if it pops open. Then remove from the pot after a few minutes and serve at room temperature with vegetables and a small green salad. ;>))

                #522796
                EdwardEdward
                Participant

                  Thanks for the suggestions.
                  First, there is no smoke from the muffler upon start up, so I don’t believe it’s a head gasket issue.
                  Second, I am using coolant (I have a water/coolant mixture tool which indicates protection up 265* F.)
                  Third, the car is rear drive with a mechanical fan clutch and does not have electric fans to turn on once it get hot.
                  Fourth, I was unable to flush the system in reverse due to a vertical heater hose that prohibits me to use a flushing tee (which requires a level, horizontal, heater hose). This may be the reason for the lack of heat, which really doesn’t concern me as I live in So. Cal. and not a priority at the moment.
                  Fifth, last night I noticed a little bit of gunk at the bottom of the overflow tank (which was clean after I flushed it a couple of weeks ago).
                  All this leads me to think there is residual gunk in the system which I will have to flush again. I think this time I will also disconnect the heater hoses and back-flush the heater core.
                  Wish me luck.

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                  #524217
                  SteveSteve
                  Participant

                    Yes I would go ahead and flush the system again to begin with. Thermostat could still have gone bad; my recent one did after about 6 months. Let the car idle in the drive way and see if the fan(s) on the radiator are kicking on when it gets up to operating temp.

                    I also agree that air in your system could be a suspect. You can “burp” the coolant system pretty easy (see YouTube videos) on how to do this.

                    #524378
                    EdwardEdward
                    Participant

                      The car does not have electric fans, instead, it has a thermo-coupler attached to the fan and therefore does not turn on as in most modern rear-wheel drive cars and all front drive cars. Being rear-wheel drive, my engine sits longitudinally with a fan belt driving the fan. But again, thanks for all the suggestions, I will hopefully re-flush the system this coming weekend.

                      #524382
                      John B KobberstadJohn B Kobberstad
                      Participant

                        Did you check the thermo coupler for proper operation?

                        #524414
                        EdwardEdward
                        Participant

                          Yes, thermo-coupler is good. Easy way to check it is to hold the fan while someone else starts the car. If there is no resistance, the coupler needs to be replaced.

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