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banana: Everything seems to check out . It has new plugs checked gap ok. Points new and set .Rotor new . Fuel pump new. Carb re-mfg’d . Made sure float was set properly . Checked for spark , spark at points and also plug wire for #1 . Pulled #1 plug and turned engine over piston at T.D.C. checked that rotor was in fact pointing to #1 plug on distributor . Also Made sure all passage ways in carb was open by spraying carb cleaner in there and on my face. That seemed to open my nostrils a little more. The moving carb parts are free and moving easily. Checked the Ballast resister by jumping or bypassing it didn’t make any difference, so as long as everything is getting good spark that should be ok . A visual inspection of the valves when cranking show all working no problem there ,. The gas im using is fresh from the gas station. It still does the same thing , it turns over and tries to start . It actually spins faster than the starter and when I let off the starter it quits When #1 piston is at the T.D.C. there is also a mark like a line showing in the peep hole on the bell housing . A visual inspection of the dist. cap shows no cracks how ever I suppose it still could be bad . I don’t know what else to do. Can any one give me anything to check that I haven’t ? It also turns over fast ,thank’s PS This engine has not run for about 2 years . Actually when it cranks it sounds normal , no unusual noise.
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the point gap calls for . .016 cranked engine so the plastic thing on points were on top of lobe then closed points on feeler guage just enough so guage was snug but not too tight .Im tempted to advance the timing,, one mark on the distributer
You need to have the idle screw set to somewhere where the engine will run. Too far in or too far out and no start.
The choke has to be somewhere near the proper setting for start to occur.
Check the coil by pulling the distributor cap, then pulling the coil wire out of the distributor cap and while holding the end of the coil wire near some metal, open the points manually. With the ignition on you should see a nice hot spark.
If the float is metal it my have sunk. Then you will be way rich. Actually it should start this way if everything else is dead on. If it feels like there is gas inside the metal float, find the leak by placing it in hot water and looking for bubbles. You will then have to warm the float until all the fuel goes to vapor and comes out, then resolder.
Check that the fuel pump is actually pumping by disconnecting the line to the carburettor at the pump and cranking the engine. Have somebody stand by with a fire extinguisher.
If it’s turning over fast like you say the it could be flooded which would kill compression because the fuel washes down the cylinder walls. Pull the plugs, if they’re wet, leave them out and let the engine air out for a while. After the plugs dry, put them back in and try starting the engine with your foot to the floor on the gas. This should help clear the flood condition.
Also, when you install the plug wires, don’t seat them all the way down on the plugs. Leave a small gap between the plug tip and the metal inside the wire. This will give you a slightly ‘hotter’ spark that may also help.
If it’s not flooded, you might want to check the compression and find out why it’s low.
More info on no starts here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problems
Good luck and keep us posted.
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