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Hey guys. I recently found a problem with my truck. it is a 94 Toyota pickup 22re. it runs great at idle and when smoothly accelerating but one I give it wide open throttle it seems to bog down and not give me any power. The truck runs great except for when It hits higher RPMs when its under load or over half throttle. I pride myself on keeping this truck running great and this one has got me confused. I was thinking it could possibly be the Mass airflow Sensor? or maybe a fuel pump? also I recently did cap rotor wires and plugs so I don’t think its an ignition problem.
P.S. Eric, I love your videos, I appreciate what you are doing for us backyard mechanics!
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Hey, sorry its been a busy couple of weeks. I’m going to replace the filter today/tomorrow. then see how it drives. if its not any better ill have to get the fuel pressure tested.
+1 on checking the fuel pressure. Another thought that I had and this is just something I’m putting out there. Timing chain. On some of those engines the chain and guides wear and cause a timing fluctuation that can effect performance. You will often hear a noise associated with this from behind the timing cover. I’ve also seen instances where the chain would wear through the timing cover and even cause coolant to leak into the oil as the location for this was behind the water pump.
Once again, not saying this is what’s wrong but I’m just putting it out there. I’d be checking the fuel pressure first just to rule out that as a possible cause.
eric, I did the timing chain about a year ago. I did it once its started sounding like a diesel from all the slack on the chain :lol:and before it blew up the guides drops them into the oil pan :ohmy: but anyway, I have never done a fuel pressure test and I don’t have the guage so I took it to a shop on Monday and then again today, but he said to come by next week because they were too busy. but now im thinking ill try it myself?? I don’t think I have a connection on my fuel rail, so would I hook it to the fuel pressure regulator??
this link shows how to test fuel pressure.
http://www.justanswer.com/toyota/1a6hi-94-toyota-4×4-pickup-22re-motor-when-jump-b-fp.html
breaking news. for the hell of it, today I threw a timing light on it to see if that’s the issue. I checked under the hood for the BTDC degrees and it also said before checking timing i must jump the diagnostic terminals. so I jumped them and went to turn on the truck, and it started flashing a code. the CEL was not on while I was driving. I guess since I checked the codes two weeks ago, the system was storing codes. code 24 and 31. code 24 is, Intake Air Temperature Sensor and 31. and 31 is the MAF or MAF electrical circuit. yes college man, the MAF which you mentioned before. I much have checked the resistance wrong. I have already tried cleaning the MAF so i guess im going to have to get a new one. and I believe on my truck the IAT is in with the MAF not by itself. so replacing MAF should fix the code 24 and 31. what do you guys think?
anybody want to buy a Toyota pickup? I bought the $250 air flow meter and of course it didn’t fix the problem.
did you clear the codes? did the same codes come back?
see the air flow meter is new.I think we are back to a
wiring issue to or from the afm/maf.here is a link to
check the wiring.especially right at the connector.
I believe the computer is not seeing the maf.due to wiring/
signalhttp://www.justanswer.com/toyota/1ht7h-94-toyota-pickup-22re-motor-it-motor.html
after I put the new air meter in I reset the codes and no codes are stored. yeah I read up on a couple things saying its probably the wiring or ECU. I checked the wires at the connector under the rubber boot and they look great, no breaks or tears. im really not liking where this is going. am I going to have to replace a wiring harness from the AFM? because I pretty sure ECUs just fail like that.
You don’t have to replace the wiring.But we need to
find the connection problem. Your going to have to
ohm some wiring and check the connections.You know, after reading through this thread again you might be best taking it to a professional. Preferably one that specializes in Toyota. I say this because what you’ve done so far has yielded little result. Given that you’re now talking about possibly replacing the ECU or having a wiring problem, I think it might be time to consider that. There are times when you get in over your head and it’s actually less expensive to bring in a professional.
I’m not saying we won’t continue to try and help you but please understand without being able to see the vehicle for ourselves and do our own testing this becomes very difficult. Also, if you get in too deep and can’t go back and are then forced to consult a professional it might be more expensive.
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