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I have a rather unusual situation with this car- my dad was driving the car yesterday with the key stuck in the “Start” position instead of “ON” (the key gets stuck in “Start” sometimes when starting the car and you have to wiggle it back a little to get it into place) for about 20-30 minutes before realizing why the dashboard clock and radio weren’t lighting up. After we got home and tried to start the car later, the starter just clicked about- engine didn’t sound like it was able to turn over, but it didn’t sound weak like a low/dead battery. I tested the battery with a multimeter (shortly before typing this post) and it showed 12.4-12.5V when the key was off, and between 11.9-12.1V when trying to start.
We’re in a bit of a bad financial situation and can’t really afford to take it to a shop or waste money on parts that aren’t part of the solution- can’t even have it towed to a shop to have someone more qualified take a closer look in-person. Is there a good way I can make sure that’s all I would need to replace, or is the information above enough to go off of? This isn’t very urgent, since it’s my brother’s car and he works from home, but the sooner I can fix it the better since my dad and I sometimes use the car also.
*Edit- I forgot to mention earlier, my dad mentioned he heard…something off while the key was stuck in the wrong position, but he didn’t really specify beyond that. I thought I heard something as well, sounded similar to an oil lifter ticking (ie, when an engine is low on oil) but very subtle- as well as a droning/humming from somewhere in the front-right that changed pitch with speed, but I suspected that drone/hum was the brakes (since that’s been in question for about a week or two now, and was coming from the front-right- I haven’t had a chance to check the brakes yet though)
PS, what extra tools might I need to replace this, aside from…say, a ratchet and socket set, a couple extensions, and maybe jack stands for extra clearance underneath to work? I have some outside help to fund the replacement parts and any tools we don’t have, but not a lot.
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Let me see if I understand this correctly.
The vehicle was driven for roughly 30 minutes with the starter engage to the flywheel.
You most likely fried the starter, even if you didn’t I wouldn’t trust it to last very long after that kind of torture.[color=red][i]I tested the battery with a multimeter (shortly before typing this post) and it showed 12.4-12.5V when the key was off, and between 11.9-12.1V when trying to start.
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A safe check would be to also get the alternator tested.PS, what extra tools might I need to replace this, aside from…say, a ratchet and socket set, a couple extensions, and maybe jack stands for extra clearance underneath to work? I have some outside help to fund the replacement parts and any tools we don’t have, but not a lot.
Basic set of tools should get the job done.
Might give this a look for some specifics on your vehicle.As to: and maybe jack stands for extra clearance underneath to work?
No maybes about it, jack stands are a absolute must have.Thank you for the quick reply- I had a feeling the starter was shot, but I wanted to get a second opinion to be sure. As far as the alternator, I’ve had an over-charging alternator kill my last car, so I will definitely get that tested before putting the car back on the road…although my brother mentioned they DID just change the battery a few months ago before he moved back here- I didn’t find out about that until after making the initial post
And…I wasn’t thinking when I said “maybe jack stands”- buying jack stands should’ve been an obvious necessity for getting under there to change the starter (or do the brakes later). I should’ve said “and maybe a cheap portable jack” since I dunno how well the included spare tire jack would do for just getting the jack stands under there. I had a couple pairs of stands and a decent (although old) floor jack a few yrs ago, but unfortunately couldn’t take them with us when it came time to move
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