- This topic has 7 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 4 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
Hey guys and as you can tell from the title 🙂 , my 2009 toyota corolla’s speakers rattle a lot. Even if I turn down the bass the speakers rattle and it makes everything sound way worse and It gets really annoying. Now as this is a Japanese car everything is basically clips and I watched videos on how to take everything apart, but I’m worried about putting everything back together. Like i took out one of the plastic panels and the clips are fine but it just wont go back in and that is kind of giving me second thoughts on removing all of the plastic panels to get to the rear speakers on the deck. Any tips? Also the speaker on the deck have an opening in the trunk so I can see the wires, so if i connect another speaker for instance what would happen at most of something going wrong. Like would it blow the fuse or would it mess up the stereo itself? Thanks guys appreciate it.
-
Replies
-
[quote=”ultimaxtrd” post=102218]How do I know how many ohms the factory car speakers have?[/quote]
usually its stamped or written somewhere on the speaker.
Thanks, but if I put in a speaker with more ohms can it damage my stereo? Or will it blow a fuse in the fusebox?
Overtime having a speaker that is of a different ohm rating may damage your amp. . It wont blow any fuses and it will appear to work fine, but your amp/head unit probably wont last. Having a lower wattage rating would risk the speakers blowing again. If youre hearing rattling my first guess is you have atleast one blown speaker, or you could just have a loose grill causing it to rattle. I’d take a look at all your speakers and make sure the cones and intact and there are no tears first that would be a dead giveaway. Good luck
Most door speakers are 4 Ohm impedance.
For your car it looks like the doors take 6.5″ speakers but you’d also need an adapter plate to be able to fit the new speakers in the door. You’ll also want to get speaker wiring adapters to go from the factory plugs to the aftermarket speakers.What trim level is your car? Is the system factory amplified/premium sound system?
Ohms . . . if the new speakers have a HIGHER Ohm rating than the old, you won’t get much volume out of them.
If the new speakers have a LOWER Ohm rating than the old, they will be plenty loud, might even be distorted at higher volumes, and you can expect the factory head unit (or amp if it is factory amplified) to fail pretty quickly.
Watts . . . if the new speakers have a LOWER wattage rating than the old, you can expect the new speakers to fail pretty quickly.
If the new speakers have a HIGHER wattage rating than the old, they will work just fine, though you won’t be getting all the sound they are capable of producing when driven at their full wattage.
NOTE: . . . be aware of the difference between TOTAL wattage, and RMS per channel wattage.
A high quality set of speakers might be specked at something like 75 watts RMS per channel, while a cheaper pair of speakers might say something like 300 watts total power handling. Those numbers are NOT directly comparable.
RMS is an electrical term that means Root Mean Square. Overly simplified, RMS is about half of a speakers PEAK power handling capability, so a speaker than can handle 75 Watts RMS can likely take 150 Watts of peak power for a brief instant (like striking a bass drum). Your 300 Watts total power handling means 150 watts total per speaker (2 speakers), and that is PEAK, so 75 Watts RMS per speaker, so those big bad 300 Watt speakers handle no more power than the 75 Watt speakers.
When trying to match aftermarket speakers to your existing system, make sure that the Wattage numbers you use from the speakers are specified in the same form as the ones from the stereo so that everything matches up and works happily together.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.