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Followed Eric’s video on what to check for the above problem. I thought I narrowed it down to a bad starter because I had 13+ volts at the battery. The battery connections are clean. I checked voltage at the starter and it has 13+ volts all the time, key in and turn to start and key out always there. Since I had voltage at the solenoid wire I figured it must be a bad starter. I replaced the starter and still nothing. I then checked the starter relay, well what I think is the relay as it is not marked so on the panel cover, but I checked on an OEM parts site and they had a diagram, I used Eric’s vid for that as well and it checked out.
BTW.. I did Load test the battery.
Any other things to check?
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So, you’ve got power on the cable from the battery and you’ve got power on the signal wire from the ignition switch when the ignition switch is turned to start, is this correct?
I don’t believe I checked that. The starter has two connections. The cable carrying battery voltage and small plug in module. I did not check the small module for current.
You need to check the smaller + wire that plugs into the starter. It should be cold with key out, and hot with key on the start position. 1 wire will be a big thick gauge, that is your main current supply that runs straight to your battery, and the other wire will be the trigger wire I mentioned above. Keep us posted.
P.S. that wire should be 12 volts, and can be tested with a test light, multimeter, etc.
If you have power there while the car is in the start position, next thing we need to do is a voltage drop test, on your ground and power. You can show 12 volts, but it may be a bad wire causing to much resistance to current flow. (current being amperage).
If you don’t have power in the start position, then we need to look at a wiring diagram of the circuit, not all cars have a starter relay, and could be anything from a relay, to an ignition switch, neutral safety switch, etc.
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