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So my wife’s van just engine shuts down by itself. All the electricity stays on nothing dims down. Checked the battery cables, cleaned them and tightened but still did it. Dealer did a diagnostic on it and couldn’t duplicate it but cleaned the fuel system and replaced the aux heater core hoses. Still does it and now it does it while driving when it just did it while in park. I have no idea where to check I even made sure the tank was full of fuel but still shuts down randomly. As you can tell I was thinking it might be the fuel pump but it doesn’t stutter before shutting down it just goes off. Oh yeah and it doesn’t shut down at high rpm or driving on the main streets just when stopped or going 10 and under mph. Any ideas?
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Without knowing much more it could be the crank position sensor going out or a wiring issue. When vehicles lose the Crank position sensor info, the ECU usually will shut off the fuel pump…
Unfortunately, Generally with intermittant problems they have to be occurring to find them… the best way is with a scanner that records sensor/ECU data… that way when it happens the tech can see what went wrong..
Good luck
Karl
Alright thank you Karl you just said the new toy I’ve wanted to buy in while and the wife just said yes to it thanks to you lol.
Ok so I have my scanner hooked up. In park it shut off on me. St was -2 to -5 long term stayed constant at 14.8. Cat temp11 1130 ign adv 27 and oat 144. Map 29.2. Now what lol.
With a basic scanner watch the rpms… the crank signal may be lost… on a higher end scanner you can watch the voltage and several other inputs at the same time… see if the rpm signal is lost prior to shutdown (this may be difficult to catch with an entry level scanner)
Also there may be an issue with the security system/key… may never spot that one…
It didn’t lose it just everything spiked in numbers just a second before it shut down. For example the map sits at 9.2 and just before shut down it spikes to 29
Sounds like you might have a voltage issue. Check your system voltage with the engine running. It shouldn’t be more than 15v. Everything on a fuel injected engine works on voltage. If it’s not correct, it can cause all kinds of issues. Also, check your battery to make sure that’s good as well. A bad battery can screw up an alternator. Also, check your ground connections. If you’ve had body work done lately, look for grounds bolted to fresh paint. The new paint can inhibit the ground connection. A little sanding and you’re back in business if that’s the case. Here’s some articles that might be useful.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-electrical-problems
Keep us posted on your findings.
There was a recall on some Chrysler vehicles for ignition switches shutting themselves off. I’m not sure if yours is one of them but it sure wouldn’t hurt to ask the dealer.
Speaking of that we did and it’s for 2010 and up not 2009. Lol. I’ve even looked around and a lot of 2009’s have this shutting off problem. Most of them get a new fuel pump and then the problem returns a few months later. I’m going to put it on the scanner again tonight. It’s hard without a service Manuel since Chrysler doesn’t put much in their regular Manuel’s. Wish I could get a base line for this.
Long term moved to 8.6 now. It shut off on me once while it was at 14.1. Load out stayed between 29.4 to 30 but would hit up to 32 at some points. With heater on and radio it shot up to 42 putting in reverse with all on it went to 51. Don’t know if this is normal. It’s weird nothing really seems abnormal other than that the long term changed from 14.1 to 8.6.
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