2008 Toyota Yaris P0011 code?

My experience with seafoam.

I used it in a single cam Mopar v8 and it bent all the pushrods. I used it in a Nissan 2.4 and the timing chain became loose. I assume that it causes hydrolocking in the valve area. There is a better word to describe it but it escqpes me at the moment.
The guy who owns the company went around promoting it at area tracks in the 90’s. He let it slip in casual conversation that it’s mainly diluted atf. Aka automatic transmission fluid

In the days of carburated cars, you could rev the engine some and carefully drizzle Atf into the carb directly to clean out deposits. It would smoke like a mofo but the detergents in the atf cleaned deposits out rapidly.

Please do not do this in your car, it would likely damage many sensors at the very least. At the worst it could cause serious engine damage.

Chrisfix has some vids and I think Eric too on using motor flush chemicals. I have never had bad luck with zmaxx. It’s not cheap, but man does it ever do everything it claims and it doesn’t mess up sensors at all. I highly recommend it. I’ve used it in every engine I’ve owned over the the last 20 or more years. Fuel injected, carburated, single and multicam, 2&4 stroke engines, even race cars and also single piston hobby engines from remote control toys.

I know seafoam is cheap and popular, but I steer clear of it. I also avoid all Lucas products for similar reasons.

I like the way you think man.

Most folks, especially ones who haven’t been techs for long, have an inclination to install hopped up parts instead of stock ones. Truth is, if you just do regular maintenance, your car will perform great with stock parts.

Atf is already a collection of lubricants, detergents and various other additives. You really don’t need to do more than a standard filter and fluid change to keep the tranny in great shape. In my experience, Toyota’s seem to like the Toyota brand atf better than anything from the aftermarket. If you buy the exact Toyota brand fluid, you’ll be fine.

Being how this car is your lifeline, your definitely on the right track by taking good care of it. I have a lot of respect for those who take care of what they have. People like that also seem to be happier overall too.

I’m going to rant for a moment about hop up style parts.

Most diy folks will buy a car that seems nice, but needs a little TLC. Super common. In example, Bob buys a Taurus, impala, Camry type sedan. Bob knows it ain’t quite right, so he wants to now perform opporation TLC. Maybe Bob has a good mindset for wanting to take care of it. Bob is a good guy for that. Bob sees advertisements for hop up style parts, so he assumes that if he pays extra for the parts, then his car will be even better off for it. At this point, Bob is engaging in overkill mode.

Car makers don’t make all their own stuff. Eric just put a new video out yesterday touching on this topic. Common wear items like belts, hoses, brakes struts etc are made by outside vendors. In my experience, the outside vendor may have been the lowest cost option for the manufacturer. That means that stock brake pads on that 99 Taurus are kinda crappy in comparison to a midnrange option from the local parts store. So, the first time that Taurus got new brakes, it likely worked better than when it was new.

Back to the overkill thing. An example – spark plugs.

Parts stores mean well, but they push some stuff because it’s their job. Look at e3 spark plugs, or Bosch plus 4 spark plugs. Wow man, slick ads they have. They have celebrity endorsements and some dudes on a car diy show on cable TV that rave about them, but they are being paid to rave about them.

What’s wrong with those plugs? Predetination. A spark plug is supposed to ignite the air fuel mixture when that piston reaches top dead center on the compression stroke. These hop up plugs have a lot of extra material at the business end. All that extra material starts to retain heat. As the air fuel mix is injected in, but before top dead center is reached, the now overly hot plug ignites the mixture. In time, this can damage the pistons. I’ve seen pistons with lots of tiny pin holes punched through because of excessive predetination. Even though those plugs have celebrity endorsements and the local parts stores push them on folks, these are things to be avoided. For the record, I like either ngk or denso brand plugs, usually of the iridium veriety.

Manufacturers of hop up parts have to know these things. The bad thing, is that Bob can put e3 plugs in his car and it will perform way better. Hard to deny results! But that Taurus has likely got between 140-300k miles on it. When the engine looses usable compression due to tiny holes punched into the pistons, Bob figures it’s time for a new car just because its old now, but he doesn’t know he just got took.

Put in a good basic plug and perform good basic maintenance throughout the car and you will have good reliable performance for lots of miles. I think hop up parts manufacturers are aware that their stuff can lead directly to reduced lifespan of the car, but if bob buys a 2003 Maxima and puts e3 plugs in that too, then they simply don’t care.

Good hop up stuff would be in ceramic brake pads as an example. Better oil is always good too. Do your research and you will find out interesting stuff in the automotive world. I find that about half the time, I avoid hop up stuff.

Rant over.

It is fun to have a wild project. A guy in my town rebuilt a fiero, but he stuck in a supercharged 3800 from a Bonneville I sold him. That thing is scary fast.

It’s been 14 years since I retired from professional autobody work. We did a lot of custom work and I have tons of great memories. My favorite thing was always being able to see the fruits of my labor and that helped me sleep very well at night.

These days I’m back in my hometown. I’m not a religious sort of guy, but I made friends with a local pastor and he goes to me first for stuff that I can still do. It breaks the boredom. I use those opportunities to teach this stuff to some of my young nephews.

I have in the past, worked on cars and trucks for all kinds of dedicated racing. I can weld custom arms to change the geometry for purpose built stuff. I got in the habit of using late model corvettes for parts to modernize classic cars.

In case you weren’t aware, c5 & newer vettes have modular suspension assemblies. Imagine the rear or front suspension, wheel to wheel being removable in a single sub assembly, then you can mount that into another car to give Corvette handling and brakes. I have a wild notion to do that along with the drivetrain into a 2000ish Dodge intrepid. Just for funzies. With that kind of thing in mind, I’m eager to see Eric do more with the Fairmont project.

Debris in the trans fluid is sorta common, even for late model cars. Some tranny shops like to run their finger over the tranny dipstick, then rub their fingers in the light to show you the need to have the tranny rebuilt because there is metallic glitter. That’s mostly a scam. All trannies produce metallic glitter in the coarse of normal operation. There are also usually magnets inside the oil pan to attract loose metal. If it shifts fine, just change the filter and fluid and your fine. Real important not to over torque the oil pan bolts, they are designed to break off easily to avoid cracking the tranny.

Gotta love all those Jason statham movies, even though they have a lot in common. A local contractor has money to burn, so he buys 5 year old cars with little to no issues, then runs them in a local crash up Derby just cuz he can. I can’t lie, it makes my teeth itch when he does that. Grr!

An s10 blazer with a v8, that sounds like a blast! A cheap fun thing is to get a small truck and drop in a v8. I’ve stuck a modern vette engine into a 2000 s10 pickup. That was a quick lil bugar.

At any rate, I hope your repair goes smoothly and doesn’t cost much. Let me know what comes of it and have a good one.