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Engine Code: Catalytic Converter Efficiency low – 2008 Honda Accord, 4-cyl, 217,500 miles;
I am looking to do this work inexpensively before next NJ inspection due, Oct, 2017 (I have time!)
• The car doesn’t consume oil between changes.
• I intend to keep this car at least another 2-years as my work commuter (~95 miles per day round trip, all highway)
• A trusted mechanic recommends purchasing OEM, both catalytic converters from Honda because third party are often not up to spec with catalyst content.
• I have the Honda service manual for this car. It details procedures. Doesn’t seem difficult.
• Both Honda & trusted mechanic estimate 2-2.5 hrs labor. If I buy parts from Honda… the labor rate differential alone probably makes me use Honda for the service, too.QUESTIONS:
• Is there a good OEM supplier out there for these cat converters? Registered in NJ… C.A.R.B. compliant.
• Can I do this work safely myself without a lift (I have floor jack and stands)? I’m a pretty “ok” shade tree mechanic?
• Should I individually test the catalytic converter AND warm-up catalytic converter… or, just assume that at 217k miles… it is time to replace both?
• Other advice? As the Migliozzi brothers would joke.. should I start putting “miracle” additives to my gasoline? (j.k.)Thank you in advance for any thoughts, references, guidance!
George
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Replies
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Besides the check engine code, what other evidence did you find that the catalytic converter needed to be replaced?
Before spending big money, I’d probably take a look at the O2 PIDs with a scan tool to to just make sure it’s not actually the rear O2 sensor. Maybe your mechanic did this, but it’s good to be sure. You could also knock on the cats and see if anything is loose in there. If your upstream and downstream O2s are mirroring each other, it’s likely the cats. Scannerdanner has some good P0420 and P0430 videos that explain a lot of this (So does ETCG, don’t want to slight the person bringing us this website) 🙂 .
If you determine that you definitely need cats, Rock Auto has Walker CARB compliant cats. You can do this on jack stands, however, since this you likely live in a rust susceptible area, unbolting everything may not be as easy as it seems. I would count on needing a torch and an impact to get the bolts loose. You need to look for fire hazards before doing this and have an extinguisher ready to go (pin pulled) and within easy reach.
Good Luck.
Holger: Yes, I have P0420 code.
Civvy: Other than code…. just the miles on the car. I am preparing for worst case… but, agree I need better diagnostics.
Dtidman: I will check out those ETCG & Scannerdanner references. Rust: Agree… as a 1970’s kid I became rusty bolt knowledgeable restoring 1930 Model-A. Fire protection: YES… Very good advice. I wouldn’t use a torch inside my attached garage. We should all be fanatical with safety & fire protection.Thank you, all!
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