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Hi All!
I’m doing a timing belt job on an 07 Kia Sportage with the V6 engine (2.7l). I’m having a heck of a time getting the belt routed properly with enough slack to go over all of the pulleys. I start at the crankshaft, go to the first (front) idler, over the first camshaft sprocket, under the water pump, over the second (rear) camshaft sprocket, and then it feels and behaves like the belt is too short – I can’t get it over the hydraulic tensioner pulley! I’ve checked the length of the new belt – it matches the length of the old belt, thus I’m at a loss of what’s going on here… does anyone by chance see anything I’m missing for doing a V6 engine timing belt? This is a clockwise rotating engine (when facing the crankshaft front) if it helps. See attached for a routing diagram.Although there’s one cam sprocket per head, this engine is a DOHC with the two cams on each head joined by a chain. Furthermore, during one of my attempts to route the belt, my rear camshaft sprang from its marked position, about 90 degrees forward and I heard a “metallic slap” sound. Should I be worried about bending a valve or anything like that?
Thanks so much for reading this and the help!
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It’s unlikely you would have damaged a valve. Assuming the tensioner is still held in the retracted position by the pin, it may be necessary to remove an idler and install it and the belt together.
Your idea worked like a dream!! Since everything I had tried already to get the belt on felt like wrestling a bear, per your suggestion I removed the tensioner idler pulley (pulley only, left the tensioner bracket mounted), and routed the belt. To route the belt I pulled tightly, but not so tight to rotate the crankshaft, and brought the first camshaft sprocket ever so slightly forward (clockwise) to line up with the belt teeth, keeping in mind the sprocket May rotate slightly back when the belt is pulled tight. Going under the water pump and over the second camshaft wasn’t bad (see before about timing marks – but be careful not to let the second cam spring forward 90 degrees like I did – it wants to do so after being 2 or more teeth forward of the mark). Once the belt was pulled snug by hand and the marks were lined up at this point, I crawled underneath with the tensioner idler in hand and weasled it under the belt, and tightened it up once aligned. This proved much easier than before!
After pulling the tensioner pin, I rotated the engine over at least 4 times, making sure the marks stayed in place – they did!
Also I checked each cylinder with a compression gauge just to ensure there was any compression at all in the cylinder when I rotated the engine by hand – there was! Now engine damage doesn’t seem so likely, phew!
Thank you very much for your time and help! Now I’m off to torque the crank pulley down and button the car back up!
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