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I have been trying to fix the power steering on a 2007 chevy impala 3500 for nearly two months now. I replaced the pump again yesterday, even flushed out all the old fluid. It still makes a ton of whiny noises & takes a grown man’s total strength to spin the wheel at all. BUT WAIT KIDS, THERE’S MORE!
The first time I did this, the steering fluid line going to & from the cooler were leaking all over, so I bypassed them taking the cooler out of the loop. I figured, Iowa driving, short trips – can’t hurt, right? I may be wrong on that bit, but I would need definitive info to the contrary please.
Also – according to the owner, the door dinger has always gone off, even while driving it. It only goes off when the key is out. I think that may be a recall issue per recalls issued on that car.
Directly under the power steering pump, the cam position sensor faces the pump and not far below it. All three wires coming out of the pigtail have lots of insulation rubbed off and are rather melted together. It appears to have been that way for some time. I imagine since I changed the pump yesterday & tried to separate those fused wires, something got jiggles wrong because now it barely runs & dies frequently. That pigtial is about 9 inches & goes into the injector harness and all that I could see of it is fused. Dealerships can get it for $50ish, but salvage yards only want to sell the entire engine harness for $200 – any ideas on a cheaper solution for that?
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[quote=”peshewa” post=137373]I have been trying to fix the power steering on a 2007 chevy impala 3500 for nearly two months now. I replaced the pump again yesterday, even flushed out all the old fluid. It still makes a ton of whiny noises & takes a grown man’s total strength to spin the wheel at all. [/quote]
The fluid is not circulating. The lines are misrouted or there is a kink or blockage, or maybe the rack is bad.The first time I did this, the steering fluid line going to & from the cooler were leaking all over, so I bypassed them taking the cooler out of the loop. I figured, Iowa driving, short trips – can’t hurt, right? I may be wrong on that bit, but I would need definitive info to the contrary please.
The cooler is very important. It has nothing to do with the length of the trip. When the steering wheel is turned, there is compression in the lines. Fluid does not compress. Therefore, the compression energy is turned to kinetic energy to push the fluid through the line and heat is produced (basic hydraulic theory). This heat, if not dissipated, will break down the fluid and burn up the pump. Some vehicles do not have a cooler, but instead they have a larger proportion of hard lines which act as the cooler. If the system was designed to have a cooler then it needs it. It’s not there just for looks.
Also – according to the owner, the door dinger has always gone off, even while driving it. It only goes off when the key is out. I think that may be a recall issue per recalls issued on that car.
could be, or it could be the jamb switch wiring is shorting to ground.
Directly under the power steering pump, the cam position sensor faces the pump and not far below it. All three wires coming out of the pigtail have lots of insulation rubbed off and are rather melted together. It appears to have been that way for some time. I imagine since I changed the pump yesterday & tried to separate those fused wires, something got jiggles wrong because now it barely runs & dies frequently. That pigtial is about 9 inches & goes into the injector harness and all that I could see of it is fused. Dealerships can get it for $50ish, but salvage yards only want to sell the entire engine harness for $200 – any ideas on a cheaper solution for that?
Rock Auto, part #PT2647, $16.51
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