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Hey everyone. My first new topic! I have been with ETCG pretty much since the beginning. Love the videos, love the site, etc. After my 2005 Toyota Matrix XR (FWD) saved my wife from a real jerk, it had to be sent to the scrap yard. I acquired a 2007 Ford F-150 late in September of this year. The vehicle appeared to have been neglected but not abused, thankfully. The truck is the one in my avatar. It has a mild sideswipe on the passenger side, but that is cosmetic and it will get fixed when I have the money. That is to say, not this year.
To the meat of the concern, the truck is an XL base model. 4.2 V6, 2WD, 5 Speed Manual (yay), and all around simple. I changed the fluids and filters as soon as I got the truck. I put 6.5 Quarts of Pennzoil 5W-20 Conventional in it. Just as my dad always did with his 1999 F-150. However, I suppose I didn’t do my homework with the engine because in the owners manual it reads “Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil (US).” That suggests to me that there should be full synthetic in this engine. Maybe it should be a synthetic blend, I don’t know. I know my local Wal-Mart sells “Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 Synthetic Blend Motor Oil” and their house brand “Super Tech.” I have done some reading on Super Tech and it seems that it is made by one of either two major Oil Giants in the US depending on where you buy it. I did the reading over on bobistheoilguy.com and everyone had a well informed opinion on it. It seems to be just as good as anything else, and the synthetic seems to be of an especially good value. The Pennzoil synthetic is $25 and the Super Tech is $15. (Both 5Qt Jugs) I know that brand loyalty runs deep with Oil, and I am not here to start that war. But to me the Motorcraft Synthetic Blend seems to be the closest to my needs and it’s the same price as the Super Tech.
I have two questions: First: Should I change the conventional oil out immediately or leave it in? It does not seem to be hurting the motor and I have only driven about 500 miles on it. Second: Should the new oil be the Motorcraft Synthetic Blend or the Full Synthetic?
I would love to see some opinions on this.
Nick
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Don’t get hung up on the brand name. Two things you should look for on the oil bottle:
-The SAE “starburst” symbol, containing the oil’s viscosity rating.
-The API “doughnut” symbol, containing the oil’s grade rating.
These two symbols can only be applied to oils that have been laboratory tested and proven to meet their viscosity and grade requirements. When oil bottles don’t have these symbols, you are in a position of taking the manufacturer’s word that the oil in the bottle is what it is supposed to be.
If your owners manual specifies a synthetic blend, you should at least be using that. (Brand name doesn’t matter, but oil viscosity and grade do.) If your engine isn’t leaking or burning oil, you might reap some long term benefits by upgrading to a full synthetic oil.
Thanks for the reply Evil-i. I try not to get too hung up on brand names. I know ETCG doesn’t. Today I changed the oil out for the Motorcraft Synthetic Blend. It was cheap at the local Wal-Mart and so I changed it out because, like you, I wanted to use at least what it specified in the manual. Maybe in a few thousand miles I’ll upgrade to full synthetic. I’m torn whether I will upgrade to full synthetic or not. It already calls for a synthetic blend, so I don’t see any harm in an upgrade.
Funny. Oil seems so simple. It’s not. I guess that’s why there are entire websites dedicated to it.
The funny thing about synthetic blend oil is there is no ratio of conventional to synthetic on the bottle.
My Camaro calls for a synthetic blend dexos approved (licensed) oil and I run full synthetic with 8oz of Marvel Mystery Oil in the crank case.
In my opinion any brand full synthetic will out perform any blended brand oil anytime.
BigDan, I agree that full synthetics are better. For my next oil change I will probably end up going full synthetic. I also agree with you in thinking that they never tell you what percentage the blend is in the synthetic blend. The only reason I am even slightly hesitant to go to the full synthetic is because Wal-Mart carries almost the exact thing that the owners manual calls for. However, the Super Tech full synthetic is exactly the same price as the Motorcraft blend.
When it comes to the brand, I have always been a Pennzoil guy like my father. It’s what I was raised on. But as I have become more educated I realize that brand does not really matter. There are only so many refineries in the world. And as long as the oils have the approved symbols on them they are pretty safe to use. At first I was leery of the Super Tech stuff, but after some research I have calmed down. It looks like a good value.
BigDan, I have some questions for you just out of curiosity. What brand of oil do you use? And why put Marvel Mystery Oil in? Some people say MMO doesn’t work, others swear by it. What is your opinion on why you use it?
Thank you for your reply.
Nick,
I grew up in a Quaker State home, but became a loyal Pennzoil user back in ’92 after cleaning the sludge out from under father’s valve covers. I was working in the oil industry and was shown the data comparing Pennzoil pure base products versus the competitions’ offerings.
Funny thing is Shell now owns both brands Quaker State and Pennzoil, but Quaker is a much lower price point. This might be due to the process to create Pennzoil Platinum out of natural gas versus Quaker using crude oil?
The Camaro is running Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 and the wife’s Corolla is running Castrol Edge with Titanium 0W-20. The reason for the difference is based on the lack of availability of Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20 out of stock. My choices were Mobil1 products and Castrol, so I went with the top of the line Castrol for the first time ever.
I have been using MMO since my ’74 Impala for the cleaning and upper cylinder lubrication properties. The 3.6L V6 in the Camaro is a direct injection engine and as a result carbon buildup on the top side of the intake valves. If using Marvel will delay the need for a manual cleaning on the intake valves I will take it. Previous generations of the engine also were plagued with clogged oil passageways I am trying to avoid even with this revised generation ;engine. I was a little late installing a catch can so there is 30K miles of PCV oil vapor dumped back into the intake
I forgot all about PCV oil vapor. I was thinking “what does oil have to do with buildup in the cylinders?” Good thing I didn’t say anything before I was done reading your post. It’s good to read everything before you reply. 😆 I was actually looking at a 2013 Camaro but it was a little out of my price range. It was a stick and in dark blue. I liked it a lot but I like trucks, too. That why I ultimately ended up getting one. I think that PCV systems are overall pretty reliable but I do know about the oil related issues those early 3.6’s had and I do not blame you for being cautious. Do you just empty the catch can periodically? And what is your oil change interval on the Camaro?
The MMO seems like good stuff. I am a Lucas Oil Stabilizer man myself. I don’t go crazy with it. I usually use about a 1/2 Quart with an oil change. It served my old Toyota well. Whether or not I put it in my newer truck with less than 60k on the clock remains to be decided.
I love my Pennzoil conventional. Always did. The new Pennzoil platinum makes me a little leery with the natural gas thing, but the process is indeed quite old. It has good protection but not actually protection I am in love with according to new tests. I saw these tests at this link
There is also a blog made by the same guy within that forum about the best oils. The test is very thorough, although it takes quite a long time to chew through. The #1 Oil is Pennzoil with Prolong Engine Treatment. This is worth a look. The only wrinkle is that the test was used with the synthetic that was not made from natural gas.
I will admit after how smooth my wife’s corolla 1.8L is running on Castrol I may make a jump over myself on my next change to see how the Camaro performs. It will be a difficult jump since Pennzoil has served me so well in the past; my old ’92 3.1L Lumina I took to 170,000 when I traded it off due to the transmission slipping and an imminent rebuild or replacement required. The engine could have been removed and dropped into another car and run for 100,000 miles. It ran better at trade than when I drove it off the dealer lot and the engine did not have one mechanical failure. Sure the alternator, fuel pump and cooling system had some issues during ownership, but nothing real crazy except for the braking system. That needed more refinement since the rear calipers would seize open and need replacement every other front brake service even with using the parking brake every time.
Sorry, got off topic;
Lumina change interval 3000-4000 miles
3000 – city/highway daily commuting
4000 – highway driving/road trip
Oil – Pennzoil conventional 5W-30
Filter – AC Delco or Fram
Oil additives – Marvel Mystery Oil; 8ozCamaro changer interval 5000 miles or 3 times a year
Oil – Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic 5W-30
Filter – K&N, AC Delco or Fram Tough Guard
Oil additives – Marvel Mystery Oil; 8oz
Typical Catch Can volume at change – TBD this is the first change with installation
Due to the warranty I will only use a brand with the dexos approved and licensed.
An extended warranty purchased to 8 years/100,000 miles due to the previous generation oil passage/timing chain problems on the 3.6L and is transferable if traded off for another vehicle.The only other concern I have with the Camaro is the coolant/antifreeze Dex-Cool; it does not have the best reputation and has led to the failure of gaskets and clogged cooling passages. I am inclined to change before the 5 year/100,000 mile mark just to be safe; others have flushed the system and returned the system back to old school green antifreeze.
Daniel
Thanks for all the detailed info. I think the old GM 3.x liter engines were really good. You didn’t have any actual mechanical failures with the motor so I would call it good.Those gen 2 3100’s were nice and smooth. I just love cars in general. My dad had an early 90’s lumina, too a long time ago. It was a good car. And thank you for the info on the oil change intervals. I’m probably gonna do 4k intervals.
I just wish that I could use the conventional. I don’t know why but I think that Pennzoil 5W-30 conventional is the best oil there is. Obviously synthetic is better, but I have seen that yellow bottle of oil take my Toyota to 194k before its premature death by wreck, and it took my dad’s 99 F150 to 256k before he traded it in. Too bad I have to use a synthetic blend. I like my Pennzoil conventional a little too much.
As a closing thought, I did not know there were problems with the Dex-Cool coolant. I am pretty sure the plain green stuff voids the warranty, does it not? I don’t know the rules, however, so I could be wrong. I have never owned a newer GM vehicle. I have the orange Ford coolant in my F-150 and I am wondering if I should replace it or not. It’s probably about that time. It’s probably the factory coolant.
[quote=”Hockeyclark” post=149853]Thanks for all the detailed info. I think the old GM 3.x liter engines were really good. You didn’t have any actual mechanical failures with the motor so I would call it good.Those gen 2 3100’s were nice and smooth. I just love cars in general. My dad had an early 90’s lumina, too a long time ago. It was a good car. And thank you for the info on the oil change intervals. I’m probably gonna do 4k intervals.
I just wish that I could use the conventional. I don’t know why but I think that Pennzoil 5W-30 conventional is the best oil there is. Obviously synthetic is better, but I have seen that yellow bottle of oil take my Toyota to 194k before its premature death by wreck, and it took my dad’s 99 F150 to 256k before he traded it in. Too bad I have to use a synthetic blend. I like my Pennzoil conventional a little too much.
As a closing thought, I did not know there were problems with the Dex-Cool coolant. I am pretty sure the plain green stuff voids the warranty, does it not? I don’t know the rules, however, so I could be wrong. I have never owned a newer GM vehicle. I have the orange Ford coolant in my F-150 and I am wondering if I should replace it or not. It’s probably about that time. It’s probably the factory coolant.[/quote]
The GM 3100s and 3400s are known for intake gasket problems,the factory intake gaskets are plastic from the factory.The 3100 and 3400s are prone to breaking camshafts in half making the block scrap right away.You do have to watch it with the 3 valve 5.4s,5w 20 synthetic oil only.The lifters will make a ticking noise if this oil is not used[quote=”wafrederick” post=150484][quote=”Hockeyclark” post=149853]Thanks for all the detailed info. I think the old GM 3.x liter engines were really good. You didn’t have any actual mechanical failures with the motor so I would call it good.Those gen 2 3100’s were nice and smooth. I just love cars in general. My dad had an early 90’s lumina, too a long time ago. It was a good car. And thank you for the info on the oil change intervals. I’m probably gonna do 4k intervals.
I just wish that I could use the conventional. I don’t know why but I think that Pennzoil 5W-30 conventional is the best oil there is. Obviously synthetic is better, but I have seen that yellow bottle of oil take my Toyota to 194k before its premature death by wreck, and it took my dad’s 99 F150 to 256k before he traded it in. Too bad I have to use a synthetic blend. I like my Pennzoil conventional a little too much.
As a closing thought, I did not know there were problems with the Dex-Cool coolant. I am pretty sure the plain green stuff voids the warranty, does it not? I don’t know the rules, however, so I could be wrong. I have never owned a newer GM vehicle. I have the orange Ford coolant in my F-150 and I am wondering if I should replace it or not. It’s probably about that time. It’s probably the factory coolant.[/quote]
The GM 3100s and 3400s are known for intake gasket problems,the factory intake gaskets are plastic from the factory.The 3100 and 3400s are prone to breaking camshafts in half making the block scrap right away.You do have to watch it with the 3 valve 5.4s,5w 20 synthetic oil only.The lifters will make a ticking noise if this oil is not used[/quote]I did have the plenum intake gasket fail at about 70,000 miles; that was one heck of a vacuum leak to drive with to the dealer. I did not beat on that car and drove it as if it was on it’s last leg; they last a damn long time when driven in that fashion. I did have some friends with issues on the 3100; one bent a rod and the other put a piston thru the head.
[quote=”BigDanIL279″ post=150516][quote=”wafrederick” post=150484][quote=”Hockeyclark” post=149853]Thanks for all the detailed info. I think the old GM 3.x liter engines were really good. You didn’t have any actual mechanical failures with the motor so I would call it good.Those gen 2 3100’s were nice and smooth. I just love cars in general. My dad had an early 90’s lumina, too a long time ago. It was a good car. And thank you for the info on the oil change intervals. I’m probably gonna do 4k intervals.
I just wish that I could use the conventional. I don’t know why but I think that Pennzoil 5W-30 conventional is the best oil there is. Obviously synthetic is better, but I have seen that yellow bottle of oil take my Toyota to 194k before its premature death by wreck, and it took my dad’s 99 F150 to 256k before he traded it in. Too bad I have to use a synthetic blend. I like my Pennzoil conventional a little too much.
As a closing thought, I did not know there were problems with the Dex-Cool coolant. I am pretty sure the plain green stuff voids the warranty, does it not? I don’t know the rules, however, so I could be wrong. I have never owned a newer GM vehicle. I have the orange Ford coolant in my F-150 and I am wondering if I should replace it or not. It’s probably about that time. It’s probably the factory coolant.[/quote]
The GM 3100s and 3400s are known for intake gasket problems,the factory intake gaskets are plastic from the factory.The 3100 and 3400s are prone to breaking camshafts in half making the block scrap right away.You do have to watch it with the 3 valve 5.4s,5w 20 synthetic oil only.The lifters will make a ticking noise if this oil is not used[/quote]I did have the plenum intake gasket fail at about 70,000 miles; that was one heck of a vacuum leak to drive with to the dealer. I did not beat on that car and drove it as if it was on it’s last leg; they last a damn long time when driven in that fashion. I did have some friends with issues on the 3100; one bent a rod and the other put a piston thru the head.[/quote]
I replace the lower intake gaskets in these a lot.3400s do have piston slap at start up for a little bit and goes away.Have a 1999 Malibu with the engine pulled out,a 3100.This previous owner drove it with a coolant leak which the intake lower intake gaskets were leaking ignoring it.Finally it blew the headgaskets out of it with death rattle from the bottom endMotorcraft semi-synthetic 5w-20 is what your truck came from the factory with. I wouldn’t spend the money for full synthetic if I were you. The Motorcraft oil and filter that you find at Walmart will be fine as long as you change it at the proper intervals. Using what it came with should be just fine.
BTW, it’s all I use in my 2007 STX with the 4.2 V6!
beardog said:
Motorcraft semi-synthetic 5w-20 is what your truck came from the factory with. I wouldn’t spend the money for full synthetic if I were you. The Motorcraft oil and filter that you find at Walmart will be fine as long as you change it at the proper intervals. Using what it came with should be just fine.BTW, it’s all I use in my 2007 STX with the 4.2 V6!
Yeah I switched it out shortly after I started the thread. And I love the protection that the Motorcraft Oil and Filter gives me at a great price point.
What are the specs on your truck? Is it a manual? 4WD? Cab configuration/bed size?
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