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Plugged in my code reader and it gave me P2195: O2 Sensor stuck lean, Bank 1, Sensor 1. I’ve replaced the O2 sensor, cleaned the MAFS with MAFS cleaner, sprayed the entire engine with carb cleaner and inspected as many vaccum lines as I could find for leaks and I’ve still come up empty handed. I took it to my local mechanic and he hooked it up to his diagnostic machine and showed me that both the bank 1 O2 sensors were basically flat lined at around .1V. He said the fuel pressure was good so he thought it might be a clogged injector. I bought a can of 44K from him, ran it through and am still getting the same code. My next thought was maybe I had a bad injector on that side so I hooked up the multimeter and the injectors came back with 14.4, 14.1 and 13.9 ohms.
I’m completely out of ideas on what to do to fix this. Any help would be appreciated.
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Oxygen (O2) or A/F ratio sensor or sensor heater malfunction Open or short in O2 sensor circuit (wiring, harness) Fuel pressure or fuel injector problem Faulty PCM Intake air or engine vacuum leaks Faulty fuel injector(s) Fuel pressure too high or too low PCV system leak/fault A/F sensor relay faulty MAF sensor malfunction ECT sensor malfunction Fuel pressure too low Fuel leak Air suction in air intake system
Read more at: http://www.obd-codes.com/p2195
Copyright © OBD-Codes.com[quote=”Cruzer” post=103617]Plugged in my code reader and it gave me P2195: O2 Sensor stuck lean, Bank 1, Sensor 1. I’ve replaced the O2 sensor, cleaned the MAFS with MAFS cleaner, sprayed the entire engine with carb cleaner and inspected as many vaccum lines as I could find for leaks and I’ve still come up empty handed. I took it to my local mechanic and he hooked it up to his diagnostic machine and showed me that both the bank 1 O2 sensors were basically flat lined at around .1V. He said the fuel pressure was good so he thought it might be a clogged injector. I bought a can of 44K from him, ran it through and am still getting the same code. My next thought was maybe I had a bad injector on that side so I hooked up the multimeter and the injectors came back with 14.4, 14.1 and 13.9 ohms.
I’m completely out of ideas on what to do to fix this. Any help would be appreciated.[/quote]
Also check for vacuum leaks. Test the injector connectors for a signal using a noid light. I would also listen to each injector to see if they sound about the same. You can also do an injector balance test to see what injector is bad.
Injector balance test
I don’t recommend omhs test for injector because that’s not testing them under a load. I recommend hooking a fuel pressure gauge up and using a power probe to do a injector balance test. In the video above will teach you how to do an injector balance test.
+1 on ohming injectors. That will only tell you if one is completely dead and if one was, you’d have a misfire. This seems like an electrical issue to me. You’ve already checked the basics according to your post. It may be time to break out a wiring diagram to look at how the O2 sensors are wired. You may have a connection or wiring issue somewhere causing the problem. You might find the information here helpful.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-electrical-problems
Good luck and keep us posted.
It’s worth noting now that I did a reset on the PCM by taking off the negative battery terminal for 10 minutes. Now when I start the car, it will bog down and sit around 400-500 RPMs for a minute and sound like it’s going to stall out. Before when I started it, it would sit around 1k for a little bit then idle at 750. The CEL came back on within 5 miles for P2195, code 1 of 2. For some reason though, my code reader won’t let me scroll to the second code.
@automechanic: I’ll run down to the parts store tomorrow and see if they have those. Thanks for the info.@ETCG: Could it be a short in the PCM that is just affecting those O2 sensors? A buddy of mine was telling me that something could of shorted it out and that the PCM wouldn’t send a fault code for itself if this was the issue.
I had my battery out before vacation and had a low idle with the A/C on. So, I took the vehicle on vacation – drove a 1000 miles. I don’t know why it took so long but noticed on the way home the idle had returned to normal.
It’s possible it’s an internal PCM issue. Thing is, it would be very difficult to find without the proper testing equipment. That said, the usual way of diagnosing a PCM problem is to eliminate all other possibilities first. This means that you need to make sure the wiring and connectors are functioning before you condemn the PCM.
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