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I have a 2006 Ford Escape XLT 3.0 V6 91,536 just replaced the transmission with a remanufactured cd4e and a remanufactured torque converter from Portland torque.
After replacing the transmission, the vehicle drove great shifts were smooth, idle smooth, it felt good just going through the break in period and relearn of my driving habits etc.
I replaced the plugs with autolite double platinum, replaced the MAP, EGR sensor, TPS and VSS Sensors, checked all my 02 sensors no problems along with my cat also no problems, because I was having a knocking and pinging when driving, my local ford dealership stated that these sensors should be replaced due to the problems with the transmission to be on the safe side. And that I should have the PCM reflashed with the updated software.
I followed recommendations from Ford to have the PCM re flashed, I replaced the sensors myself pretty easy to do however after Ford did the flash, my car has been idling just fine in park but in drive it feels like it is surging, when driving around in city it will feel sluggish at times, and when accelerating on highway and to get to 70mph starting around 45mph and 1500-1700rpms to 65mph the vehicle acts as if it has a misfire and sputters through that 20mph range then stops once i hit 65mph and it drives and accelerates with no problem. This issue is consistent when the engine is hot or cold.
I replaced the fuel filter thinking it was bad gas, run seafoam through crankcase and fuel tank, run the tank till my fill light come one filled up with unleaded plus fuel and ran a complete fuel system and injector cleaner through it. However the problem still exists, I’m currently looking at replacing the plugs again with manufacturer motorcraft plugs and replacing the cam position sensor as well as cleaning the MAF sensor at the same time. Currently there has been no code lights illuminated.
Any help would be greatly appreciated i’m at my wits end and driving my family nuts with potential problems to try and fix not to mention wasting time and money with no cure so to speak with winter quickly approaching I need my car running like a champ as it was when i first bought it 2 years ago.
I wondering if the flash was not done correctly, i’ve talked to Ford they tell me that they will not touch the car again until I drive it for hundreds to a thousand miles while it relearns my driving habits. Im a little reluctant to allow the car to run this way in fear I will cause catastrophic issues with my engine or new transmission.
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Replacing parts is NOT a diagnosis and I’m a little disappointed, no, a LOT disappointed that Ford told you to replace those parts, to me this was bad advice at best because it has no basis in the reality of automotive diagnosis. You need to find the root of the problem before you replace anymore parts and that will require time and testing. I made these videos just for people in your situation so perhaps you’ll be able to find something in them that can help you.
Solving Performance Problems 1
Solving Performance Problems 2
Re Performance Problems
Thanks Eric, I can’t agree with you more, its disturbing that such advice would be given by representatives of Ford Motor Company, i’ve tried to talk to these guys on multiple occasions and get non stop run arounds from them!
Update to my diagnosing my problems:
1. This evening I checked and replaced each plug with factory plugs, upon replacing the plugs I checked all coil wiring and found no problems, checked all coils for cracks or sings of wear or damage all coils and sheathing are in great condition.2. Removed and checked the Cam Position Sensor there were obvious signs of wear on the sensor, some heavy abrasions (scaring) along the shaft itself I had a new factory sensor I however did replace that sensor since I found some wear and tare, checked the wiring and found no signs of damage.
3. Cleaned MAF by your website directions sprayed it with Carb Cleaner.
4. Checked vacuum lines and elbows all were in good condition obvious signs of age however no damage.
5. Checked Engine Oil its at normal level (I drained and replaced oil and filter when I installed the remanufactured transmission).
6. Checked Transmission Fluid after car was at temperature it is at normal level.
7. Checked Engine and Trans/Engine Mounts all are in good condition and snug.
I’m not a mechanic by any means, i’m a Safety Officer, Emergency Medical Tech for the Department of Homeland Security Emergency Response Team, but I do my best to diagnose and fix a lot of my cars problems websites like this and advice from those with experience is greatly appreciated.
Well done! Well I think since the transmission was recently replaced that you might want to do a few tests to see if it’s working as good as it should. To be honest this is my prime suspect since it was replaced recently. Anytime you have new parts and major work like that it’s suspect. That said you can use the tests I showed in the performance videos to checking the transmission. If you shift through the gears manually and it acts differently than when it shifts by itself this might be a place to start looking.
If you have access to a scanner or code reader that shows live date, perhaps you should see if its showing the misfires or possibly which cylinders are missing. Every Escape I have worked on, I had to replace atleast one coil even when they visibly look good.
Using motorcraft parts and not aftermarket your escape will like u for. Like said the coils are known to cause misfires as well as using plugs other than motorcraft.Another thing often overlooked are the intake manifold gaskets,upper and lower, these tend to dry out and will cause vacuum leaks in which will cause problems like poorly running engine.
Check all your hoses and around intake for vac leaks,especially the back 3 hoses going into intake and going to pcv valve.Under a load they will flatten out on the ends when they get brittle from the inside of the hoses but may look ok from outside.
Be careful if u take off the front wiring harness going to the coils that u put it back on correctly,soo easy to put back on backwards then u end up getting a p0304 an p0306 code with engine running worse than b4…There is another site dedicated to ford escapes that has a ton of info and knowledgable people. http://www.escape-city.com…Good luck
Thanks for the replies guys, I ran a scan on the system no codes still, i’m starting to think now that maybe my Throttle Body could use a little clean up! I was under the impression that these cars are computer controlled with timing is this true or can you manually adjust the timing? I spoke with Ford they are doing the cover our butts routine telling me its my problem not theirs they will not invest any time diagnosing the problem unless I am willing to pay for the time and labor involved even though the car was running just fine city and highway driving before I took it to them!
Once again thank you to you all for your input and help!
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