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I paid 120$ for diagnostic and they say valves need to be adjusted and they can do it for 700$ I refused and did it by my self. Thanks Eric for that video on You Tube. Like on that video intake were a bit loose, exhaust – tight. Adjustment didn’t help, knocking same like before and noise stays even on warmed up engine. Under that valve cover I think noise comes from all parts are discolored, radish-brown and other side like new, all parts have metallic color. It has 208000 km, maybe previous owner changed one head, or that head doesn’t get enough oil.
I need your help guys to find out whats wrong. Love this car, don’t want to get rid of it or spend thousands at a service. Thanks!
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You can use http://www.hotfile.com to upload the manual and post the link.
Exemple : Toyota corolla 2004 repair manual link : https://hotfile.com/dl/195619855/8b37412/Repair_Manual_toyota_corolla_2004.zip.html
I can’t find my manual.if you have one, please sent it to me. Thanks! Appreciate it!
aleksandrtretiak@gmail.comOn those motors #4 and #5 spark plugs are notorious for backing out by themselves which in turn causes a terrible noise like you have. We have an 05 mdx here with the same condition. The coil pack melted into the spark plug tube and the plug broke loose and rattled around in the cylinder.
Before you go replacing a valve spring which is probably fine, check your plugs to make sure they are tight.
Is the coil pack covered in oil or carbon? Oil means the spark plug tube seal is defective and allowing oil into the spark plug well.
If its covered in carbon then that means your plug is loose. If indeed it is loose I would reccomend replacing the plug (or all of them depending on your mileage) and that coil pack. Check those plugs and let me know!
All spark plugs are tight. Coil pack on #5 was in oil because the tube seal was broke, I changed that, but I don’t know if it works fine, going to check resistance on it. How do you think spark plugs can cause this noise?
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuWiZ5nVKzA[/video]
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aP9GJuHO7N8[/video]
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fjmplL0Sfac[/video]
A loose plug will cause this noise so your ok there.
The next free, easy thing i would do is a piston height test. Since its hard to get to the back bank, just check the front.
Take all the plugs out, insert a long, skinny screw driver into the spark plug hole on the #4 hole and rotate the motor to tdc on #4. Make a line on the screw driver at its highest point. Do this for cyls 5 & 6. This will check for a bent connecting rod.Does everything look normal under the valve cover besides the discolorarion?
everything looks normal under the valve cover. I will do that test for bent rods. I hope they are fine.
Tried to change valves! The tool my friend gave me, useless there, no room around springs to grab it. Any body know what can I use there? Looks like exhaust springs are loose , I can press them with my finger when intake can’t. Or intake always harder to press?
All the valve spring removal tool is available here
http://www.summitracing.com/search/department/tools-shop-equipment/part-type/valve-spring-compressors
Can you post a pic of your exhaust valve springs that are loose? Are the keepers intact? How do the rocker arm contact points look?
Its hard to tell what the white stuff is next to the valves. You dont have any abnormal coolant loss do ya? Any rough running? It may be a good idea to do a cylinder leakage test on that cylinder and check for any bubbles in that area. Also pressurize the cooling system and make the same checks
Upset! Change springs on that cylinder- nothing changed! Same noise. Did compression test, all tree in front bank around 180.
Coolant a bit lower than use to be, but not significant. I don’t know how to pressurize colant system. Car running not ruff.
Try leak down test. I dont know!
Forgot take pictures of rocker arm, but they look fine.
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