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I paid 120$ for diagnostic and they say valves need to be adjusted and they can do it for 700$ I refused and did it by my self. Thanks Eric for that video on You Tube. Like on that video intake were a bit loose, exhaust – tight. Adjustment didn’t help, knocking same like before and noise stays even on warmed up engine. Under that valve cover I think noise comes from all parts are discolored, radish-brown and other side like new, all parts have metallic color. It has 208000 km, maybe previous owner changed one head, or that head doesn’t get enough oil.
I need your help guys to find out whats wrong. Love this car, don’t want to get rid of it or spend thousands at a service. Thanks!
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Yeah! But my engine was sound awesome 1 month ago. I love V6 sound, sometimes I just turn the radio off and listen the engine. I will not give up till I found some serous problem
Good news ! I just hope you red the service manual to know exactly which are the right cylinder number are. Each brand have the cylinder number differently. For the job you are going to do on this engine It’s not a problem, but for valve ajustement and seal valves replacement It’s critical.
I didn’t read the manual, I just found Eric’s valve adjusting video , it was same car. Doesn’t sound like I did something wrong, rest of cylinders sounds good.
So, do I have to change all springs on that one? They cost like 10$ each. I got spring tool and compressor. What about valve seals ? Do I have to replace them?
Thanks for helping me man!And one more thing forgot to tell. I found broke spark plug tube seal on that cylinder and coil pack was in oil, but plug looks good by it self. Coincident or it could effect on something?
Kinda a chicken or egg thing to figure out. That said…
Do you really think the cylinder making all that noise that has this problem(damaged seal) for only that cylinder is unrelated? That tube seal, was any of it missing?
I don’t think damaged seal caused that noise. I just give more information about that cylinder condition to get more help find out the problem
yOU just need to change 1 spring. For the brooked spark plug is strange. For that one is sure you have no explosion in that cylinder.
Eventually, you will break the valve. Because metal whit mechanical vibration put on It It’s call stress. So when the valve are going to be stress out, It’s going to break. To change a broken valve, you need to pull the engine head (same as you change a head gasket). You will need more tool,time and money to replace the valve and replace after that the spring you should have change weeks ago. Self-serve garage have compressor and some tool depend on where you go.
For me, I will go in a self-serve garage and buy all the tools on the web (lowest prices then on store), valve head black silicon sealant and pay 20 $ per hour to do the job myself.
I got all tools I need, and garage, just wait for parts.
Againe about coil pack on this cylinder. It doesnt look good, compare to other. Im going to test resistance. I notice sometimes RPM’s drops when engine cold. Maibe stupid questions, but, Can not properly working coil pack overheat exhaus valves and make springs weaker? I think noise and bad coil pack on this cylinder related to each other. Just one cylinder, and two problemsIt’d could increase the oil temperature slightly around the valve but not hot enough to modify It’s structure. but my concern is the mechanical fatigue put on the spring itself. Metal have crystalline patten in it. When the metal cool in the manufacture making, the crystal go all way if It’s not cool properly. When you have steel crystal that are not going in the same direction It’s create weak spot for metal stress. To make a spring you have many heat treatment that re-oriented the steel crystals to make It’s strength. But this way, you create microscopic weak spot that affect the metal in the long run. By the way, nickel-chrome compressor blade in the airplane engine have all the crystal (grain)oriented to the same way.
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gO5gPdJxe_o[/video]
http://www.basicmetals.ais-metallurgical-testing.com/iron_to_steel.asp
Hey Alex I’m not sure if you have the service manual but here it’s good to have specially on the type of work you will be doing. Also it tell how to test coil etc. I think about valve it start on page 119….Update it’s too big for the forum if you want I can send to your email if you needed just let know Thank.
I can’t find my manual.if you have one, please sent it to me. Thanks! Appreciate it!
aleksandrtretiak@gmail.com
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