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I just did the timing belt service on my 2005 Odyssey with 224k mi. I bought a OEM kit off Amazon that included the belt, tensioner, tensioner and idler pulleys, and water pump. After putting everything back together I started the engine, filled with coolant, and road tested.
During the road test with mid throttle acceleration up a mild grade the motor lost power, the TCS light and CEL lit (and the CEL stayed lit) and the engine died. I was less than a mile from home. Restarted and limped home with vehicle definitely down on power. It has sat in the driveway since because I didn’t want to do anything stupid and because I didn’t have time to deal with it.
I did replace the spark plugs with NGK Iridium plugs. My understanding is that they are gapped from the factory so I just installed them as is.
While attempting to get the PS pump back on I removed the
Bypass Valve ActuatorIntake Manifold Tuning Actuator on the intake manifold.Codes: P0300-0305, P0344, 71-01, 72–01, 73-01, 74-01, 75-01, 76-01, 77-04, 09-06.
Looking for thoughts and perhaps a list of things to check and order of progress to diagnose. Thanks.
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I would start by checking all of your electrical connections around the area in which you were working. I’m not terribly familiar with the V6 engines, but you did mention that you removed a bypass actuator. Definitely start by checking there, as well as any other electrical connections to make sure everything got plugged in and that it is securely fastened. It sounds like either an issue that happens once the vehicle is warmed up or when you needed a little bit more power. The misfire codes (P0300-0305) are indicating a possible timing issue, but you also have a code for a knock sensor on bank 2 (P0344). I’m not sure if you’re abbreviating the rest of the codes on your list or if they’re TCS codes due to your TCS light being on. I checked ABS but most of those aren’t registered.
The most obvious thing to check is the timing belt, but if it’s as hard to get to as it is on my four cylinder I would start from the top down before ripping all of that apart again. It’s possible that it could have jumped a tooth or gotten off by a tooth while you were changing it. Make sure that it has proper tension (a loose belt would slip and stretch, causing the timing to vary), and check the timing with a timing light if you have one.
With newer cars these days one issue can set multiple codes and dashboard lights. For example, I forgot to plug in the MAF sensor on our 2011 odyssey after changing the air filter. I figured it out right away when i started the van and it died out right away, but for the next 25 miles or so, the TCS, Check Engine, and ABS lights were on, and it definitely felt like it limped around all due to one electrical connector for the MAF sensor. Yeah, I could’ve reset it with a scanner but it was in my accord and Advance doesn’t reset check engine lights anymore. I’m not advocating you drive around until it goes away, but rather saying it’s probably something similar to that if where the computer detected a problem and then went into a fail safe mode to keep you from doing damage. Definitely check your timing and all of your connections and such for now and then keep working from there.
Today I finally got to look at the car again. When I looked at the cam markings through the windows with the crank supposedly set to TDC, it looked like the timing was off quite a bit. So I started taking stuff out to get to the timing belt again. On the plus side it took less than half the time to do the tear down this time than last, so at least I’m getting familiar with the car.
Once the timing belt cover was off and the bottom pulley removed, it actually looked like things were not nearly as far off as I had originally thought. It might be off a tooth. That’s good because before I started it looked to be much further off and I was concerned about potential valve damage.
I think the problem is that I don’t have the tensioner set correctly. Also, there is too much slack around the water pump. I struggled with that when putting the belt on, too, and would welcome suggestions on how to get that area to stay tight.
I also have hunted and hunted and haven’t found anything that talks about the Intake Manifold Tuning actuator at all, let alone provides any explanation for its proper removal and re-installation. So, if anyone has information on that (e.g., a manual page that talks about it), I would appreciate the shared knowledge.
I remain hopeful that once I figure out how to get the slack out and to get the tensioner set properly, and then ensure the bypass valve actuator is set properly, that all will be good. For what it’s worth, the car seemed to start and idle well, and it wasn’t until the test drive that I started having problems.
Correct me if I’m wrong, but I’m pretty sure the tensioners are supposed to be self adjusting on these engines. Mine supposedly is, but then again I’ve never messed with the timing belt. Either way, if you’re having an issue with the tensioner it could cause it to skip a tooth, especially if it was when you were giving it a little more power. I’m surprised it’s even running, from what I’ve heard Hondas hardly ever start if they’re off by even a tooth. But like I said, I’m not really experienced in the J series.
Last week it got too hot to finish on Saturday, and on Sunday it rained all day. So it wasn’t until today that I got to finish putting the car back together.
The extra time let me do more research. Though I never found anything that definitively stated what I needed to do for the actuator, I did find an ETCG video on valve adjustment that showed the top of the intake plenum being taken apart. I think it provided all the explanation I needed. I took mine apart and could see that it was set wrong because the butterfly valves were partially open. So I reset that, cleaned a bit and put that back together.
I also discovered that there is a shaft that fits into the tensioner pulley that had to be removed from the old pulley and installed on the new. I was wondering why the new pulley didn’t seem to adjust terribly easily. With the shaft installed the pulley rotated easily on its pivot point. I reset the tensioner and reinstalled it. All this was after I aligned the crank and camshafts and removed and reinstalled the belt. This time I pulled a it harder and adjusted the cams a tiny bit while installing the belt. Doing that I was finally able to get the belt tight around the water pump. With the tensioner installed and the grenade pin pulled it finally was properly snug all the way around.
I removed the plugs and checked the gap, which seems to be factory correct. With the plugs out the motor rotated easily and the cam and crankshafts remained in alignment. I put the car back together and all seems well. I haven’t road tested it yet, though. I did start it briefly in the driveway and it seemed to run well and smooth.
Hopefully the road test will go without a hiccup this time.
**UPDATE** Took it on a short road test tonight. So far, all is good. I forgot to mention earlier that I also plugged in the code reader. With the battery having been disconnected for a week, all the codes it had before were gone. But on the road trip this time I got no check engine light like the last time. I plan to do more road testing in the morning and to run the code reader to verify nothing is out of the ordinary.
You lucked out I think, the timing belt coming loose due to the tensioner not being installed correctly could really ruin your day (and your engine), so even if it was the intake runner valve thingy (it very well might have been), doing a once-over on the timing was very much a good thing. 🙂
Timing belt being a tooth off probably wouldn’t cause a misfire, at least, in my experience. Just a large loss of power.
I think you just triggered limp-home-mode and that took your power away though, but good thing that you once-over’d the timing as well. 🙂Luck had nothing to do with it. 😉
It didn’t look to me like the belt had slipped a tooth. I think the lack of tension caused inconsistent timing that, like you said, triggered the limp mode.
Anyway, all’s well that ends well.
I wouldn’t be surprised either if it was the variable intake thingy that caused the limp mode. Being open when its supposed to be closed or vice-versa might really mess up the ECU’s readings and/or cause misfires due to the mixture being way off. But it depends on the car, I guess, or to be more specific, if it has a MAF or a MAP sensor to determine how much air is going in..
No doubt. The butterfly valve changes the intake runners to permit more lower end torque.
The timing belt definitely needed to be addressed though.
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