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INNOVA 3130e OBD PC LINK
error codes P0193 fuel rail pressure sensor high input
P1233 fuel pump driver module disabled or off line ( fuel pump driver module )
P1235 fuel pump control out of range ( fuel pump driver module VLCM )It was about 18* F this morning. The engine started went to high idle dropped to slightly lower idle in a few steps and stalled all in about thirty seconds. After a few starts the engine continued to run but I could not maintain a consistent RPM with the axcelerator.
A trouble shooting direction would be most appreciated.
I have attached the rest of the INNOVA report as a PDF.
Thanks!
The Northerner.
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This SUV has 224,861 kilometers.
I should have asked is it safe to drive it to a mechanic 1.5 miles away on city streets? 30 miles an hour max. Or does it have to be towed in?
I am asking on behalf of a nurse who works with mentally challenged adults.
Thanks
The Northerner.The nurse who owns this vehicle purchased it at 8 years of age with about 194,861 klms on the odometer. If 20,000 to 24,000 kilometers per year is average it was driven at a rate of 24,358 kilometers per year for the first 8 years of it’s service life. That is high for just around town driving so it must have been out on the highways a lot. For the past 3 years it has averaged just 10.000 Klms. per year. That is indicative of casual use just around town.
Have you checked your fuel pressure while this was happening or voltage to the driver module?
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It’s late so I just did a quick check on Idenfitix with the P1233 and P1235 codes. The most common reported fix, by far was the fuel pump driver module. I’m not saying to just go buy a new FPDM, but start your diagnosing at that module. If it’s anything like the F series pickups and their FPDM failures, they bolted that module somewhere that it could collect dirt, debris, and road salt (If you’re in a climate for road salt anyway). Then the module becomes permeated by nature and the aluminum casing corrodes into a chalky oxide.
Now that I’m typing that all out loud and thinking about it, I can recommend you just go find the fuel pump driver module in its physical location and disconnect it from its electrical connector and whatever it’s mounted to. Look for corrosion on the electrical pins and then look for the back half of the case to be corroded. I just did a wiring repair leading to the driver module last month on a Ford Escape, which is the same vehicle. The driver module is on the left side behind the fuel tank mounted to the bottom of the floor pan. If you can’t see anything obvious, I can get some wiring diagrams posted later for some proper diagnosis.
No I do not have an automotive multimeter or the knowledge to use one without frying sensitive components. Your thoughts agree with the post below so I will take a look at that module.We needed a basic understanding of what is going on so the unscrupulous tech can’t rip my friend off.
In your opinion can the car be safely driven 1.5 miles to a garage or should it be towed?
thanksMr. no_common_sense this response seems like uncommonly good sense to me. I have had success with simply exercising partially corroded electrical connections. I will do that this afternoon and post the results.
I will ask you also is it safe for the lady to drive the car to the mechanic or must it be towed in?
thanks for this.
The northenrerIt’s a crap shoot and I can’t predict an outcome from here. I’d guess you’re trying to save the cost of a tow bill, but you’re risking a stall condition that could happen anywhere and that can lead to dangerous situations in traffic conditions I likewise can’t predict. Spend the money on a tow and, since you’re worried about unscrupulous technicians, maybe do some due diligence on finding a shop that’s honest if you can afford the time for it.
I exercised every connection under the hood except the ECM. I exercised the fuel pump driver module connection. I erased the codes and the mazda started. I let it warm up and took it for ride up and down some steep hills for about mile and the fault returned. I scanned for codes and OBD showed just the fuel pump driver error offline or disabled.This suggests to me that an internal contact swells once heated with use and then shorts out. Does this sound plausible?
thanks
The NorthernerI think we have narrowed it down to the fuel module. I am going to try to get a used part first and/or a new part and install it myself. Failing that I have CAA TOWING COVERAGE to help my friend out.
Thank you for the cautionary advice.The Northerner
It’s definitely plausible, but it’s something worth proving before you throw money at a part. I can’t find a price tag when referencing a Mazda Tribute, but it shows me that it’s about $143 for what should be the exact same driver module from Ford at my local dealer. It could be equal to or greater at a Mazda parts counter if they’re not exactly the same.
There are aftermarket FPDM’s available and they’re cheaper than OE, but I see they’re made by Dorman. I’ve found Dorman parts to be pretty unreliable parts over the years. A used part from a donor isn’t a very good idea either. These are known pattern failure parts which means you could be buying a dud right out of the scrap yard.
It’s a good gamble to try and throw an FPDM at it, but it’s still a gamble. If you didn’t guess the right part that module, one way or the next, becomes yours to keep. A lot of parts houses won’t offer refunds on electronic parts anymore. Whatever choice you make from here is yours to make. Just keep in mind that it is a gamble at this point and you know the consequences if you miss.
Personally, I hope it’s a very good gamble. Keep us posted.
I say I think we have narrowed it down but I don’t really know for sure. I just tried starting it after it had cooled down ,,, nope. It is 24*F / -4*C this evening. I don’t think it would hurt to throw a new part into it just for fun. If I can avoid the towing and the mechanics shop that would be a big success for us.
Mr. NO_COMMON_SENSE sir Or who ever is willing,if you have the time, one final question please.
Does the battery have to be disconnected to install a fuel pump driver module or is it enough to just clear the codes first?The part cost $152.00 CDN
Yeah I know we Canadians always pay end up paying more for everything. I guess we are to polite for our own good in this matter.
The (polite) Northerner
Mr. NO_COMMOM_SENSE & Mr. CAMMED 05 I must commend you both for your willingness and skill in talking a complete novice DIYer through some very deep water. I think you succeeded in getting one very grateful lady nurse back on the road.
Well done gentlemen!!!
Eva gives you each a virtual hug. 😀
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